XJ "Budget Build"

[raptor314]

I'll let you guys know how the TB works. This weekend I want to re-do that passenger side sway bar link to make it straight plus do the wiring for the E-Locker and overhead lights. Electrical isn't my strong suit.

That, the heater core, a cage, a belly skid, and finish the exhaust and I'm calling it done. Then it's time to see what works and what doesn't.

I'm also thinking about a hood scoop with a small electric fan to blow the hot air from the engine compartment rearward. Anybody have any thoughts on that?

 

[raptor314]

Then this one is next...

 

[raptor314]

I got the front end aligned on the XJ. I had got it pretty close with the tape measure, but the shop fine tuned it. They told me my right rear needs to go back 1/4". I think I'll split it and bring the left rear forward 1/8" and right reer back 1/8".

With the front sway bar and proper alignment it steers very well. Lovin' it!!!

 

[raptor314]

Oops

 

[raptor314]

I got sidetracked doing the rear brakes on my Superduty and fixing quads this weekend. I ended up taking the wife and kid to Lagrange to ride quads.

I dropped the XJ off at a shop to get the heater core replaced. I probably could have done it, but it looked like a PITA, and in the end I just couldn't make myself do it.

 

[raptor314]

When I get it back, I'm gonna do the roll cage. I've been looking at the Rogue Fab bender for awhile with 1.5" dies with the bigger CLR.

I know JD2, JMR, and Pro Tools make quality benders, but I really like the vertical design of the Rogue Fab and Probender benders. The price on the Rogue is also desireable.

Does anybody have any ACTUAL first hand experience with the Rogue Fab Bender?

 

[ftwelder]

I have a JD2 and have used 1-5/8"X .120 DOM for most interior application with a full roof and six points. I think some use larger due to vehicle weight.

 

[raptor314]

I had the heater core replaced last week. It will be nice having heat this winter.

Since I got it back, I now have an issue with my ignition. The key will not rotate back to lock. Since my cylinder was well worn, I could get the key out, but I couldn't lock the ignition or steering wheel.

I replaced the ignition cylinder and have the same problem with the key not going to the lock position. Anybody had this problem, and how did you fix it?

 

[raptor314]

My stereo also recently lost audio. I took it back to Best Buy since it was bought only 7 months ago. The tech told me I probly had a bad speaker shorting out on the drivers door.

I pulled the speaker and it worked fine out of the vehicle, but it would arc when it touched the steel door. I replaced the speaker and it's working fine again. The first time I've seen a speaker do that.

 

[GroversXJ]

I replaced my ignition switch a few years back and must have tightened it down slightly closer than the original one because the stereo won't work until I rotate the key back slightly towards off until I hear a click then all the accessories work again. Maybe your switch moved during your process and isn't allowing enough movement to lock.

 

[raptor314]

I figured it out and fixed it. It did have to do with the park interlock mechanism. The extension of the cable coming in at about 11:00 on the collumn has a female ball socket ( the black part in the pic). The male part is the silver piece and deals with the lock mechanism for the collumn. Inserted the silver piece into the black piece and now all is good.

While I was in there I replaced the speedo cable and remounted my mic for by bluetooth. Now I just gott put the dash and collumn all back together.

 

[raptor314]

Last Friday I modified my upper control arm in an attempt to gain some more castor. I'm at about 8" of lift which is about when you should cut/rotate the knuckles...which I'm not going to do.

My front pinion was aimed at the transfercase as it should be, but at the expense of castor/steering. Low speeds wasn't too bad, but hitting bumps on the highway or imperfections in the road would make it wander. It was kinda sketchy in turns with a bump. It wandered a bit. Also the steering wheel wouldn't come back to center on it's own when you come out of a turn and you would have to steer it back to center.

I also noticed that my UCA would hit my new track bar in up travel. I drilled a new hole in the arm and reprofiled the front to clear the track bar.

Here's how it was

This was the fix

So I sacraficed optimal driveline angle and picked up significant handling. The driveshaft angle is a few degrees flat, but I hope aceeptable. The handling is awesome and there isn't any driveline vibration which is what people say to expect with a bad angle. 70 MPH on the highway felt comfortable with one hand as it didn't wander anymore and now the steering wheel comes back to center when coming out of a turn.

 

[raptor314]

I ordered LED lights to replace the Harbor Freight halogens I put on my rack. I'm getting (2) 2X3 floods for each side, a 12" flood for the rear as a back up/f*$k you light, and a 40" spot/flood combo for the front. I also found some 4X6 LED headlights, but I've gotta modify the rings that hold the lights in.

Waiting for some of the lights, switches and relays to get started.

I also decided to convert my Sanden AC to OBA. I know everybody uses an inline tool oiler or fogger for lubrication, but I have found (2) guys online that pulled their oil from the crancase ventillation on the valve cover. They basically T'ed into it with a hose from the AC compressor to the T to the airbox. Do you think it would pull enough oil vapor from the valve cover to lubricate the compressor?

 

[LukeRabe]

Just read through your whole build. Looks great. I'm not a big fan of DIY camo jobs either, but yours came out great.

I saw you had the HF bender at some point but are now considering a different one for the cage. Is there any specific reason for that? How did you like the HF bender?

Let's see a few more pics of your yota, too! Looks badazz

 

[raptor314]

Thanks LukeRabe. I tried bending some tube with it years ago and it just crushed it. It works OK on pipe, but it destroys tubing. I used it on my rock sliders and front hoop, but that's pipe.

I little off topic I know, but since you asked.

 

[raptor314]

Today I made some templates to make new rings for the headlights. I'm gonna cut 'em out of an old aluminum street sign I have.

Looks like it will work with a little grinding to the headlight bucket.

 

[LukeRabe]

Thanks LukeRabe. I tried bending some tube with it years ago and it just crushed it. It works OK on pipe, but it destroys tubing. I used it on my rock sliders and front hoop, but that's pipe.

Thanks for your response. Good to know, I definitely won't be considering it for a cage project then! The yota looks great, btw

 

[Randy_66]

A really interesting build, subscribing!

 

[raptor314]

Cut out the center for one of the headlight rings. 3/4" hole saw for the corners, die grinder for the straight lines. Fits snug.

I'll cut the rest out on the band saw.

I hope it doesn't look stupid with that small light in that big opening.

 

[DeftwillP]

Paint it black and it'll be fine.