Would anyone recommend a companies interior cage?

[mike86xj]

I will eventually be doing a custom cage and was wondering if there was room to run the front vertical post through the dash.
I dont think the passenger side wouldnt be too hard but the drivers side is the worrysome one, has anyone done it?

THanks
Mike Barr

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Yep, I have the D&C 2 door cage - I think the very first one they did in fact! I too recommend the D&C cage for the money. It seems to have the most functional design and still maintains the true cage purpose.

One thing everyone needs to understand about "mail order" cages is that getting the thing to fit nicely the first time is nearly impossible. Weld in cages should be fully installed using tack welds first, then welded up once fit and placement are worked out. Damien at D&C installed my cage (welded the whole unit together in my rig) but didn't anchor it to the XJ in order to save me some money. This actually created problems when I tried to bolt the footers to the floor. The welding had caused the center hoop to raise about 2" off the floor. I ended up using some spacers and long bolts to draw it all down, then replaced the long bolts with shorter ones once the feet were drawn down. Now, the cage is in a sense "pre-loaded". Might not be a bad thing in the end, but did make it much harder to finish the install.

Now, to answer another person's question, does it tie into the uni-frame. Yes and no. D&C puts the footers where the uni-frame rails are. How you mount the cage to the uni-frame is up to you. You can simply screw it all down into the metal, you can use backing plates at the front and rear footers, you can weld the footers to the metal, or you can build trusses to make a stronger base for the footers to anchor to. How you anchor the cage is up to you - D&C doesn't provide any additional trusses or plates. I bolted the rear hoop down, drilled thru the uni-frame at the middle hoop and used 1/4" plate on the underside of the uni-frame to make it solid, then built trusses and plates at the front hoop to give that hoop a solid place to mount to.

Another thing to understand about this type of cage. It isn't gonna be absolutely solid. After installation, you'll notice that the tubes move a bit when driving the XJ over bumpy surfaces. This is the natural movement of the unibody, in conjunction with the cage offering some resistance. The more triangulation that is added to the basic D&C cage, the more sturdy it will be. Mine flexed quite a bit before I added some additional tube and then put 2" triangle trusses at each joint of the cage. Currently, it takes a pretty nasty washboard dirt road to get the cage to move.

Also, D&C's front spreader bar can be a problem. This is the bar that spans from the right to left at the top near the windshield. I cut mine out and replaced it with some tube bent to follow the arc of the windshield. The original bar seemed to be way too close to my melon for comfort - especially when climbing steep hills - I was resting my forehead against it just to get a line of vision over my hood. Damien may have changed his design by now, but if not, I'm sure he'd be willing to bend a tube for this application at your request.

Hope this helps!

 

[flexj]

Another thing to understand about this type of cage. It isn't gonna be absolutely solid. After installation, you'll notice that the tubes move a bit when driving the XJ over bumpy surfaces. This is the natural movement of the unibody, in conjunction with the cage offering some resistance. The more triangulation that is added to the basic D&C cage, the more sturdy it will be. Mine flexed quite a bit before I added some additional tube and then put 2" triangle trusses at each joint of the cage. Currently, it takes a pretty nasty washboard dirt road to get the cage to move.

My cage did that too until I tied the A pillar down bars into the uni frame. Then it got real solid. At first I just had the B pillar gusseted in and the C pillar tied in so-so with the A just bolted to the floor.

Another cage to mention, which would be the one I had, is a S&W cage. www.swracecars.com is the link. I'm not sure if they have pics on their site of the XJ cage but it is a decent cage. It doesn't come with frame tie ins and looks similar to the D&C cage. I think I paid ~$200 a few years ago. I'd image with steel going up that the price is higher now. Most of the joints are already coped and the bars cut to lenght ready to weld in. Mine was a 2 door and the shoulder bar is optional. I actually made mine bolt in so I could remove it when I wasn't wheeling for easier rear seat access. I have pics at http://community.webshots.com/user/hamyscj I should add that I did add alot of tubing to this cage to get it to where you see it now. I don't seem to have any pics of it with the interior in on webshots but I should have some at home. I'll try to put some up tonight.

Hamy.

 

[Root Moose]

I will eventually be doing a custom cage and was wondering if there was room to run the front vertical post through the dash.
I dont think the passenger side wouldnt be too hard but the drivers side is the worrysome one, has anyone done it?

This is something that I've often wondered about as well. I really like the D&C cage but the way you lose so much space in the front door opening for getting in and out makes it a non-starter for a daily driver. Maybe if I was 10 years younger, 4" shorter and 60 lbs lighter it wouldn't be a big deal. I've seen the tube run through the dash in a TJ. Must be able to do the same with an XJ? Anyone had the dash apart on a 97+ XJ? What is behind the dash in the corners?

There's a couple of other things I have noticed about the D&C cage as well. I guess it applies to any cage that is similar.

The bar that connects the "B" pillar hoop behind the rear seats is a nice touch. Would be great to mount a 7"-10" monitor between the seats for entertaining the kidlets. But, that bar is also something for the rear bench mid-seat passenger to bang their head on in a collision. There's no mid-bench shoulder strap and five points in a DD aren't practical. I don't know if there really is a solution to this other than don't get in a collision.

All these cages really eat up rear cargo area. In a dedicated trailer queen no big deal but on a DD grocery getter that is an issue. If I was to design my own cage I'd try to make the cage follow the outside better or don't bother trying to cage the "D" pillar - just brace the "C" pillar with 45 degree downtubes like an early YJ or CJ7.

From all the cages I've seen none of them seem to do much about the way the XJ crumples in a head on crash . I would think that a little bit of tube down the tranny hump and across the bottom of the front door openings would help that a lot. Then there's the whole rear passenger head restraint thing. A tube and some cushions might help that?

Just my spin. I think I'd need to build or have built a custom cage to satisfy what I want. The D&C might be a good place to start.

r@m

 

[asshogger]

Here you go guys, just finished this one for an XJ, a full blown cage at its finest. Maybe a little much for most people, but given a drawing from our customer, this is what we came up with. While we were not paid to do it on this particular jeep, we would recommend sleeving the unibody with channel or plate, then tying from the existing rollcage sandwich plate to the unibody. Its clean simple, and bombproof. The back seat will still function, if you omit the diagonal running from the forward center hoop to the rear center hoop. While hard to see in this particular picture, the cage ties to the frame with 28 1/2" bolts. It also reinforces the critical B-Pillar area, by tying into the existing shoulder harness bolt, with a preformed 1/4" bracket. Note: Rear Passenger leg room is tight, with the X behind the driver seats. Also, we are no long going with the flanged bolt together design, we use a cleaner, stronger sleeve design, with 3/8" pins. This cage comes apart in 3 pieces. THe only downfall, is the lower half of the X must be welded inside the cage, thus making the cage unremovable from the vehicle. Just a few fun facts about this cage. THere is 123 feet of tubing (roughly 250 lbs of weight spread over the vehicle) 70 welds (not including gussets), 62 Notches, and 2 Grab handles. The cage is 100% TIG welded. For a cage like this, its best to bring us the jeep, wait about a month, then come back and get it, and be prepared to get excited.

This picture was an in progress pic, we have up on our server. More pics available upon request, by email [email protected]

 

[D70XJ]

Yep. Tony and Ryan @ asshogger are madmen with the bender. I came in with a few rough sketches, and a couple of pictures, and an idea of what all i wanted to get done, and this is what it progressed to. The cage definently stiffened the chassis alot. I plan on sleeving the unibody and tying in the cage myself. I started a post on my jeep with a link to my webshots album if you want better pics of the jeep and cage go there.

 

[MMIXJ]

I will eventually be doing a custom cage and was wondering if there was room to run the front vertical post through the dash.
I dont think the passenger side wouldnt be too hard but the drivers side is the worrysome one, has anyone done it?

actually it is the passenger side that appears to be more of a problem (at least on my '01), due to the heater core and fuse box.

 

[hjeepxj]

Here you go guys, just finished this one for an XJ, a full blown cage at its finest. Maybe a little much for most people, but given a drawing from our customer, this is what we came up with. While we were not paid to do it on this particular jeep, we would recommend sleeving the unibody with channel or plate, then tying from the existing rollcage sandwich plate to the unibody. Its clean simple, and bombproof. The back seat will still function, if you omit the diagonal running from the forward center hoop to the rear center hoop. While hard to see in this particular picture, the cage ties to the frame with 28 1/2" bolts. It also reinforces the critical B-Pillar area, by tying into the existing shoulder harness bolt, with a preformed 1/4" bracket. Note: Rear Passenger leg room is tight, with the X behind the driver seats. Also, we are no long going with the flanged bolt together design, we use a cleaner, stronger sleeve design, with 3/8" pins. This cage comes apart in 3 pieces. THe only downfall, is the lower half of the X must be welded inside the cage, thus making the cage unremovable from the vehicle. Just a few fun facts about this cage. THere is 123 feet of tubing (roughly 250 lbs of weight spread over the vehicle) 70 welds (not including gussets), 62 Notches, and 2 Grab handles. The cage is 100% TIG welded. For a cage like this, its best to bring us the jeep, wait about a month, then come back and get it, and be prepared to get excited.

This picture was an in progress pic, we have up on our server. More pics available upon request, by email [email protected]

What is blurred out behind the driver seat?

 

[Roxtar]

What is blurred out behind the driver seat?

Com'on, isn't it obvious?
He doesn't want anyone to see his Rolex and get jealous, calling him all kinds of mean names, eventually getting this thread sent to the den.
Geez.

 

[hjeepxj]

Com'on, isn't it obvious?
He doesn't want anyone to see his Rolex and get jealous, calling him all kinds of mean names, eventually getting this thread sent to the den.
Geez.

Touche...touche.

:laugh:

 

[XJCasper]

Subscribing to thread

 

[pair8hd]

I will eventually be doing a custom cage and was wondering if there was room to run the front vertical post through the dash.
I dont think the passenger side wouldnt be too hard but the drivers side is the worrysome one, has anyone done it?

THanks
Mike Barr

On my 88' I ran mine thru the dash, just had to rearrange some wires. You will have to remove your windshield if you plan on keeping your roof

btw-The Skyjacker XJ (97'+) has a "stealth" cage that has the a-pillar tube going thru the dash.

 

[MMIXJ]

err, yours definitely looks like an "eX-J"... :spin1:

any photos of that skyjacker cage? seems like last time i checked their website the "rock ready" XJ was nowhere to be found.

 

[davelbert]

Another cage to mention, which would be the one I had, is a S&W cage. www.swracecars.com is the link. I'm not sure if they have pics on their site of the XJ cage but it is a decent cage.

Hamy.

I called today to see if they offered a xj 4 door cage. They do not. They do however have the 10 pt race cage, $249.00 + s&H, for the two door or four if you lose the back seat.

Dave

 

[YELLAHEEP]

Here you go guys, just finished this one for an XJ, a full blown cage at its finest. Maybe a little much for most people, but given a drawing from our customer, this is what we came up with. While we were not paid to do it on this particular jeep, we would recommend sleeving the unibody with channel or plate, then tying from the existing rollcage sandwich plate to the unibody. Its clean simple, and bombproof. The back seat will still function, if you omit the diagonal running from the forward center hoop to the rear center hoop. While hard to see in this particular picture, the cage ties to the frame with 28 1/2" bolts. It also reinforces the critical B-Pillar area, by tying into the existing shoulder harness bolt, with a preformed 1/4" bracket. Note: Rear Passenger leg room is tight, with the X behind the driver seats. Also, we are no long going with the flanged bolt together design, we use a cleaner, stronger sleeve design, with 3/8" pins. This cage comes apart in 3 pieces. THe only downfall, is the lower half of the X must be welded inside the cage, thus making the cage unremovable from the vehicle. Just a few fun facts about this cage. THere is 123 feet of tubing (roughly 250 lbs of weight spread over the vehicle) 70 welds (not including gussets), 62 Notches, and 2 Grab handles. The cage is 100% TIG welded. For a cage like this, its best to bring us the jeep, wait about a month, then come back and get it, and be prepared to get excited.

This picture was an in progress pic, we have up on our server. More pics available upon request, by email [email protected]

Wow. Quite a bit of pretty bends and gussets. But, no offense, it looks like you constructed a buggy inside the XJ....... looks like ya shoulda just cut the body away and expand the tubing outwards - lotsa wasted space in the interior. Impressive to look at, but I'm not seeing any practical application. You guys do beautiful work though.

 

[Ramsey]

I called today to see if they offered a xj 4 door cage. They do not. They do however have the 10 pt race cage, $249.00 + s&H, for the two door or four if you lose the back seat.

Dave

i've ran across this site and was amazed at the price. anyone got any pics or details

 

[verrive]

On my 88' I ran mine thru the dash, just had to rearrange some wires. You will have to remove your windshield if you plan on keeping your roof

Remove the windshield to install it like that or permanently have no windowshield?

 

[trailxj]

bringing this back up..

anyone have picture of skyjackers "stealth" cage on the 97+ xj?

also has anyone kept the overhead console with a cage in a 97+?

researching some options/ideas since a cage is getting closer to the top of the xj todo list..

 

[XJZ]

Remove the windshield to install it like that or permanently have no windowshield?

What happened to just temporarily removing the dash? Guess that's just too easy.

 

[pec50]

I'm into this a bit late, but I will add another perspective. When the fire dept does an extrication from an uprighted MV with frontal impact, typically the dashboard has intruded (substantially) into the cabin and must be pushed back to remove the patients. We often do this with hydraulic rams positioned in the door corners pushing forward into the dash area. We sometimes have to remove the windshield and peal the roof by cutting it off at the A and B pillars and rolling it back. Side impacts present a different set of dynamics, but you get the general idea of the extrication procedure. With head on collisions, expect head and spinal trauma, chest and abdominal trauma, knee, femur, and sometimes hip injury. With side collision, add to the aforementioned mix shoulder, clavicle, humorous, lower extremity, and hip injuries. So, think about some side and frontal cabin protection. Surprizingly, the roof often does its job pretty well, but some beef there probably wouldn't hurt. Remember to leave some room for extrication procedures, should, heaven forbid, they need to occur. But, the biggest safety gain is wearing the full seat belt; it's astonishing to me how often survival is based on simply wearing the belt.