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Prelim thinkin' about a cage

Root Moose

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ON, Canada
Apologies for this long post in advance.

Now that I've started moving the tools and benches into my workshop (finally!!!) I'm starting to get serious about building the XJ. Axles get started this week. Woohoo!

I've been tossing around some ideas about doing a cage. There are a lot of cages on the market already but none of them seem to be exactly what I'm looking for. That being said, the D&C Extreme cage is pretty close to the mark. I figure for the cost of buying/conversion/shipping I can get a JD2 and some bits, etc.

Here's some of the things I've been thinking about. Comments/thoughts/experiences appreciated.

1.) General ergonomics. My XJ is used as a daily driver; most of the time my wife is shuttling our boys (3 yo and 6 mo) around with it. Needless to say, kids car seats are still very much in play. There will be another kid coming in the next two years or so. Also, my wife has to live with whatever I come up with.

I'm not a "hardcore" four wheeler or anything like that, but there may be times where I get in a situation that a cage would be good to have.

One of the things that really bothers me about the stuff that is currently for sale is the front passenger door being blocked under the dash.

What about running tube through the dash behind the AC vents at the A-pillar. Is there anything structural or HVAC related that would make that not an option? The Jeep is a 97+ if it makes a difference.

Also, how do people replace the windshield in these kinds of setups? With the tube of the cage being so close to the A-pillars is it not hard (impossible?) to gain access to the inside when gluing/removing the windshield?

An idea was to run the tube that makes the top halo over the passengers down the A-pillars and across the dash and back up the other side. This angled "U" that goes "under" the windshield would be clamped using those aftermarket roll cage clamps to connect to the vertical members that came from the floor/footwell behind the dash.

Are the aftermarket cage clamps worth a damn? If others could be incorporated throughout maybe it would be possible to "drop" the cage away from the roof for welding/maintenance/etc.

What about defroster clearance?

If this is not clear what I mean I can do a sketch or two to post.

2.) Collision damage. I've been looking at a lot of web pictures and real life wrecked XJs. It seems that the XJ "greenhouse" is not very strong at all and will collapse easily. I wonder if this vehicle was ever tested against the NHTSA/CMVSS spec that states the roof must be able to support 1.5 times the vehcile weight (static). It is probably marginal.

Side impacts and frontal impacts also seem to really hurt the XJ structure. Looking at a "modern" Jeep like a ZJ or WJ they don't seem to fare much better.

Would it be best to run tube down the side of the interior along the back side of the rockers. The vertical tubes will connect to this, then the horizontal tube can be tied into the uniframe somehow.

Is there any merit in running tube around the front passenger footwell and over the tranny hump to keep the footwell area from collapsing in a frontal collision? Is there enough room for that and the pedals, feet, etc.?

3.) Rear passenger room. The B-Pillar hoop needs to be reinforced somehow but triangulating it will really reduce DD usability. Is a mid height horizontal spreader bar sufficient? Better ways to do it?

In a frontal collision is the mid height bar going to be something that the mid bench adult passenger hits their head against? With the amount of "whip" that occurs in a collision will the outboard bench passengers hit these bars with their head?

4.) Cargo room. Most cages seem to have bars that run into the cargo area in some fashion. How necessary is this really? What about making the rear passenger shoulder strap support cantilevered off a "V" shaped piece of tube that rejoins the main vertical upright about mid height.

There is no sense in "protecting" the cargo area but at the same time will the structure forward of the C-pillar be enough to keep the structure from collapsing backwards?

5.) What is the smallest outside diameter tube that can be gotten away with for a cage like this? 1-1/4" is too small? 1-1/2" is minimum? This is a daily driver so weight is a consideration (mileage over the next 10+ years). Is there an "intelligent" combination of tube diameters that can be used throughout?

6.) Connecting to the uniframe. Is the standard "large plate welded to the unibody" method as done in SCCA racing style builds sufficient for an XJ? Should the cage be tied into the "fake" frame rails under the floor instead (also)?


What am I forgetting?
 
Wow.


I'm not even going to attempt to answer all that.
I'll just say this; a if your wife does drive it daily, with kids?...
She will HATE you forever for putting a cage in.
There is no way to make a caged XJ convenient to use.
If you're not really hitting hard core trails I wouldn't do it.
Keep in mind, this is from someone who has one.

That said, I really like the D&C cage. It's not perfect and should have more triangulation and such but it's a great starting point and not bad on it's own. Having built mine from scratch I wouldn't consider building another one over buying theirs.
For the money it can't be beat.
 
Brad pretty much hit the mark. Although there are varying degrees of intrusiveness, there is no getting around that a cage obstructs & gets in the way. The majority of the questions you ask go back to personal preference. As for tube size, 1.75 .120 wall is the standard, but many seem to get by just fine with 1.5. I would add that if you do choose to go with the smaller tubing than design & structure play a greater roll it the cages strength & is far more important. Large foot plates are very important, but the more tie in points (frame rails, seat belt mounts, shackle boxes) you have than the stronger the cage will be. How much is too much depends on your own comfort level. There is no hard fast rule for how much protection vs. how much intrusion you need unless you're building for racing & it must conform to certain rules. My best advice would be to look at what others have done & steal ideas & designs you like to piece together something that would work for you.

Matt
 
Thanks for the inputs.

Sorry for the huge initial post. I was rambling with the first coffee of the morning at the time.

Let me try to simplify the stuff I'd really like comments/experiences on.

1.) The roll cage clamps that are available in the aftermarket to connect members at 45 and 90 degree angles. Worth a damn?

2.) What kind of windshield clearance is reasonable for maintenance?

3.) Any ideas what is behind the dash outboard AC vents on the 97+ XJs?

As for the "living with it" point, I probably should mock up some PVC pipe and leave the Jeep for my wife to drive for a week or two and see how it goes.

T!
 
OR, buy her another vehicle (XJs can be had very affordably) and go hardcore!
 
Rockready cages are probably the least intrusive I've seen, and sturdy as well. Since it's difficult to get around possibly burning up things you don't want burned, this would be a good choice since it's completely bolt in, and it doesn't affect the entry or exit of the jeep. It also includes large foot plates like Matt was suggesting, and is expandable to your needs/preferences.
 
What Rd said:
OR, buy her another vehicle (XJs can be had very affordably) and go hardcore!

That thought has crossed my mind but it is another set of issues, insurance, gas, maintenance, etc., etc. I have a hard time finding time to do stuff with the Jeep I already have.
 
xjj33p3r said:
Rockready cages are probably the least intrusive I've seen, and sturdy as well. Since it's difficult to get around possibly burning up things you don't want burned, this would be a good choice since it's completely bolt in, and it doesn't affect the entry or exit of the jeep. It also includes large foot plates like Matt was suggesting, and is expandable to your needs/preferences.
Do you have a URL?

I checked out the Skyjacker site and catalog but no luck.
 
Root Moose said:
That thought has crossed my mind but it is another set of issues, insurance, gas, maintenance, etc., etc. I have a hard time finding time to do stuff with the Jeep I already have.

All true.
 
ditto on the above. a rollcage is a balance of what you use it for-you can't have everything. a strong, tied in correctly cage will hold the unibody structure and enable you to just bend out the sheet metal after a rollover. but also is intrusive as hell. a good non intrusive cage will save your life in a rollover, but forget saving the vehicle. that being said, you have to find a balance. i've rolled mine, and the a piller got smashed up against it's hoop. the body shop just pulled it out and fitted it to a new windshield. the closer to the unibody the cage is, the better for retaining structural integrity. protecting the cargo area is kind of a fringe benefit of this.
as far as side impacts go, a rockrail tied into the chassis/cage on a lifted jeep will stop those who wish to dent your door at the mall parking lot real quick. and greatly reduce the chance of the body crushing from a side impact.
i run a 4 door. a 2 door could give the rear seat more room with a cage. on mine, the center hoop diagonal runs from the drivers side top to the pass. bottom. this way, shotgunners can recline their seat a good bit. where my rear kickers invade the cargo area, i built anchored cargo boxes around them, flush with the wheelwell. in a rollover, it kinda sucks to have your toolbox fly open, break the window, and have to pick up about 50 sockets, not to mention what a sharp tool can do to the back of a persons head...
best of luck to ya!
 
what about exo cages? I've heard they're not as strong, and many find them ugly, but it seems they'd help a lot as far as non-intrusion and such...I've had thoughts (for some point well in the future when I have time, money, skill and a second vehicle for DD) of doing some form of combo exo/interior cage. Run it inside tight against the ceiling (with enough space to wrap a strap around for cargo) in the rear then bring it though the roof over the passenger compartment, maybe even build a roof rack into it at this point, and then up front bring it down along the A-pillars and either outside or under the fenders (no decision there yet). Tie it into a sturdy front bumper and the rockrails. How's this sound to anyone who knows about cage building? Keep in mind my lack of knowledge about spreaders, triangulation and such. That would all be included in the final product, I just didn't go into detail since I don't know anything bout it. Something like that may be a decent compromise in your case
 
BlackSport96 said:
what about exo cages? I've heard they're not as strong, and many find them ugly, but it seems they'd help a lot as far as non-intrusion and such
Ah, someone thinking outside the box.
Props to Sporty.
This is the best way to do what you want. Granted, I'm one who generally finds them ugly and your wife might be too but show her some pictures and see what she thinks.
 
BlackSport96 said:
doing some form of combo exo/interior cage.


If one is doing an interior/exo, where can you reduce the tube size to save on weight, either diameter or wall thickness? I am not as "diet conscious" as others (considering the driver could stand to lose 60 lbs himself :) ) but would like to minimize weight gain without sacrificing safety.

I assume .095 tubing dents easily so you would want to use .120 on the exterior that might contact rocks. But can you then use .095 wall tubing on the interior if there is a are .120 wall tubing running parallel on the outside? Can you safely combine smaller tubing sizes in certain structures such as cross braces or at the roofline? Where do you definetly NOT want to risk it?

I am definelty not an engineer, so please school me.
 
i'm no expert on this, but i would use .12 all over. the shorter the brace, the smaller tube you can use. you would never get a good cage under 200lbs. most weigh 2-300 lbs. also, see this thread:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37267
it all depends on what you want from your cage, too.for a DD worried about weight, all interior is best. you don't want to "risk" anything. that's the idea. for an all-out light weight trail-only or occasional driver rig, you're best off stripping the inside, cutting out inside sheetmetal, and build an 75% internal cage welded to the inside sheetmetal. a couple of external roof and rocker sliders would protect doorframes, some corners on the body made out of small(er) tubing would help, too. but the best all around cage would be mostly internal.
 
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