Worn axles then worn differentail ring

[Tonybeirut]

At this point, no I am not sure I would trust the mechanic.

1) The 'new' axles would not move the carrier by putting pressure on the bearings...the axles have a certain degree of float to them normally, and they can move in & out up to 1/8". So if their was any pressure being generated, the axle would just move to get rid of it.

2) Yes, the c-clips will move with the axle....push the axle in till it hits the center pin, and that is how you remove the c-clip....pull it out sharply, and that's how you seat the c-clip.

3) There should be a gap between the center pin & the axle ends once the c-clips are seated (axles pulled all the way out until they seat)

4) The axle SHOULD touch the brake drum housing, as the drum mounts ON the axle. Now, the axle should NOT touch the backing plate, but if the axle is touching the backing plate, you HAVE NO axle bearings...they are gone. I am not sure what or where you are saying they are touching (axle & drum)

5) I'm not sure what is going on from your description and the pics, but you got something wrong, and I can't see just changing axles causing this.





The axle flange/studs is where/how the drum mounts to the axle

Not sure on the "worn after the c-clips" or the "slipping when cornering" statements

and if you grind the brake drum on the inside all the way around, you basically make the drum large enough that the brakes aren't touching it, so yes, any sound would go away.....

do your rear brakes even work now ???????

Worn after the c clips part i meant the part that touches the cross pin of the carrier.
Slipping when cornering mean sliding? (in and out movement from the diff housing) Sorry.

Rear brakes are working but not like before grinding the drum so I will change both also.

 

[dan1977p]

I just measured the part of the shaft after the c clip and I get 6.39mm or 1/4 inch. I'd be curious what yours measure and if the claim that it's worn is even valid.

 

[Tonybeirut]

I just measured the part of the shaft after the c clip and I get 6.39mm or 1/4 inch. I'd be curious what yours measure and if the claim that it's worn is even valid.

That's good info. When Im going to install the new gears and bearings I will check the measurmenrts. The full length of the shaft is 29.750 right?
And yes it was worn I saw it. Metal debris/shavings where in the oil.
Does the Chrysler 8.25 comes with a magnet at the bottom?

 

[dan1977p]

Magnet is on the cover.

 

[TRCM]

Worn after the c clips part i meant the part that touches the cross pin of the carrier.
Slipping when cornering mean sliding? (in and out movement from the diff housing) Sorry.

Rear brakes are working but not like before grinding the drum so I will change both also.

The only way that the end of the shaft can wear is against the center pin....and that means someone used the wrong thickness c-clips when they put it together.

The axle shafts will move in & out some...like .100" or so. That's normal.

 

[Tonybeirut]

The only way that the end of the shaft can wear is against the center pin....and that means someone used the wrong thickness c-clips when they put it together.

The axle shafts will move in & out some...like .100" or so. That's normal.

The ARB didn't come with C-clips so we used the old ones. I Shipped usa standard gears C-clips along with the gears, will they be better to use? Any idea if they are more thick than the originals?

 

[Tonybeirut]

1: Pictures of all the things you're describing will help all of us really understand what you're saying
2: Not an insult at all, but is English not your primary language? I work with a lot of off shore folks and I look at what they are saying differently than I would a native English speaker.
3: If it was me (especially since I would do this in my garage) I would treat this axle like a fresh install. New master install kit for the carrier/pinion, new outer seals and bearings, reset the gears and even rebuild the brakes if they are causing issues. Check the axle housing for straightness before doing anything, because if it's bent, there's not much point in trying to put new parts in something that will destroy them shortly thereafter.
4: If a rebuild didn't fix your issue, a new ring and pinion should probably be installed. I may even consider doing that anyway so you don't have to set the old gears and then set the new ones. Gears are cheap compared to that ARB you have them installed on.

Can I worn gear be set again like you said?

 

[TRCM]

The ARB didn't come with C-clips so we used the old ones. I Shipped usa standard gears C-clips along with the gears, will they be better to use? Any idea if they are more thick than the originals?

Not sure, you'd have to measure them

There are also shims which go under the side gears...if those are missing or too thin, it will also let the axle move in & out more

 

[Tonybeirut]

Not sure, you'd have to measure them

There are also shims which go under the side gears...if those are missing or too thin, it will also let the axle move in & out more

Yes I also bought a set of new shims and crush sleeve.
I understood from the mechanic there was no crush sleeve installed the 1st time at the pinion.
Will take pics when he install and setup the gears step by step including the backlash and post here before driving the jeep.

 

[dan1977p]

If he forgot to use a crush sleeve, he should be covering the cost of the regear. He did faulty work and doesn't seem to care that he's taking more money rom you to fix his mistake. Find a new guy, please.

 

[Demonoid369]

If he forgot to use a crush sleeve, he should be covering the cost of the regear. He did faulty work and doesn't seem to care that he's taking more money rom you to fix his mistake. Find a new guy, please.

^X1,000

Sounds like this mechanic is a terrible mechanic and is causing you more problems and spending more money chasing those problems

 

[xcm]

I Bet theres tons of guys doing dana style axle regears in lebanon... probably many more than in utah!

Not every mechanic does axle regears, and it can be easy to not add the crush sleeve in, if you are chasing pinion depth settings... I tag the axle with a giant red tag, when forced to work on crush sleeve axles, and leave the CS out for setup.

 

[Tonybeirut]

OK all of you are correct it was the mechanic fault. I just came back from another mechanic shop.

We removed the diff cover and found this:
Backlash 0.60 (1.5mm) instead of. 006.

Bearing caps :
Right upper bolt 55 lbs
Right lower bolt 50 lbs
Left upper bolt 45 lbs
Left lower bolt 40 lbs
All those should be 60 lbs...

The pattern on the ring gear coast side (hope I'm Not mistaken) moved to the right edge meaning the ring or the carrier moved to the left now it's whinning and it's worn.


We didn't take the pinion preload or pinion depth nor bearing preload.

I guess thats why my 2 axles where worn and then when we replaced them my ring gear was worn following them.

I got my new shippement last week with full rebuild parts but I won't rebuild my diff now until I find a professional mechanic.
Will drive my GT Mustang it's summer time and need to forget the stress I got from this issue that cost me 640$ so far.

 

[Demonoid369]

Make sure the faulty mechanic reimburse you

 

[xcm]

If google is correct, 1.5mm = .059", which is definately suuuuper out of spec, could be the RGS adjuster came loose, or the carrier bearings werent properly preloaded.

Caps should have more than 60ft/lbs though.

 

[Tonybeirut]

If google is correct, 1.5mm = .059", which is definately suuuuper out of spec, could be the RGS adjuster came loose, or the carrier bearings werent properly preloaded.

Caps should have more than 60ft/lbs though.

If the backlash was correct when R&P were installed at the beginning (with 006) it will decrease if the carrier is worn at the coast side? I'm asking this coz normally when measuring with the dial indicator the needle is placed at the top of the ring tooth not the coast side.

Sorry for asking too much.

 

[Tonybeirut]

Make sure the faulty mechanic reimburse you

This is Lebanon not the US....

 

[Tonybeirut]

I've been looking at almost every instructions on how to rebuild a 8.25 Chrysler just need a step by step easy instructions for beginners how to setup the carrier side bearings preload with photos. Thank you

 

[dan1977p]

I've been looking at almost every instructions on how to rebuild a 8.25 Chrysler just need a step by step easy instructions for beginners how to setup the carrier side bearings preload with photos. Thank you

It's not terribly difficult, but it's not really a beginner's job either. You'll need to get a set of calipers and a dial indicator so you can measure the shims and backlash properly. Carrier bearings just get pressed on and backlash is set by rotating the adjusters. Pinion depth will be harder since you will need to press and remove the bearing until you get it right and that takes a couple times.
Patience is the key here.

This may be a good guide for you since they are doing an ARB install in an 8.25. http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Moses-Ludel-Rebuilds-the-Jeep-XJ-Cherokee-8.25-Chrysler-Axle?r=1

 

[old_man]

I didn't have time to read everything, and I don't know about this particular axle, but this can happen on a D44. They have axles that are slightly different lengths. If you swap them, they can press on the cross shaft. The D44 does not however use c clips, it uses pressed on bearings at the wheel with retainer plates.

If you measure from the slot where the c clip goes to the end of the axle towards the cross shaft, are they the same? Maybe you simply have an axle that was not trimmed to the right length causing it to hit the cross shaft and force it to one side.