WJ brake upgrade for a 2001 XJ... Simplified?

[Vanimal]

not doable, it wont fit (i looked into it)

 

[garr]

not doable, it wont fit (i looked into it)

Thanks, What rod ends were you using that won't fit?

 

[Vanimal]

i looked at using the stock wj tie rod ends and 1 ton offset chevy ends. i guess if you use heims you may have better luck.
With the research i did, it seemed to be better to change the axle side track bar bracket for a flatter track bar and drag link. it does seem to handle better than it did before i went over the knuckle. maybe someone else with some more experience can chime in with how or why, or if it's true.
here is the track bar bracket i am using, angles are decent using the 1 ton offset chevy TRE's and a zj pitman arm. I use a bigger bushing on the body side track bar bracket and a heim on this bracket.
http://www.offroadwarehouse.com/products/productID/51620

here's my setup. track bar is right behind the drag link, hard to see, sorry. body side bracket is a rubicon express double shear.

 

[CartsXJ]

Just another Idea before I start welding.
Using WJ knuckles, Has anyyone went OTK with the tie rod but left the drag link UTK?
it looks like this would help with the track bar/drag link angles.

I don't think they would fit.

 

[bmsmalley]

I have been researching like everybody else but I just want to do the cross over steering and beef up the track bar, tie rod and drag link. I just converted the rear to disc and the BB/MC to dual diaphram and with 33" it stops like a race car!! Can I do all of this and not do the big brakes up front? If so, do I still have to use the spacer and different upper/lower ball joints and such?

 

[Vanimal]

you can do a terraflex knuckle which is similar to a wj knuckle in regards to the steering. but you're likely going to pay more to go that route and have much crappier brakes. i had rear disks and the bb/mc swap before i did the wj swap and it was nowhere near a racecar. not even close to my saturn. The WJ swap was definitely worth it for the brake upgrade IMO.

 

[jdbwrx]

I have been researching like everybody else but I just want to do the cross over steering and beef up the track bar, tie rod and drag link. I just converted the rear to disc and the BB/MC to dual diaphram and with 33" it stops like a race car!! Can I do all of this and not do the big brakes up front? If so, do I still have to use the spacer and different upper/lower ball joints and such?

If you switch to the WJ knuckles you would have to use the JKS spacer and the different ball joints. The offset on the WJ knuckles is different than the stock XJ knuckles, so the spacers are required to keep the u-joints in line with the ball joint. The taper on the WJ lower ball joint is different than the XJ, hence the need to change that.

If you use the WJ knuckles, you have to use the brakes, as the stock XJ calipers do not fit on the WJ knuckles. The WJ knuckles/brakes are all part of an integrated system.

If you are content with the stock front Xj brakes, and just want beefier steering or high steer, there are a number of options.

You could do a JCR or Ballistic Fab (or similar) over the knuckle upgrade.
http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/merch...=PROD&Category_Code=S6&Product_Code=1TNST-OTK

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-34-with-High-Misalignment-Spacers_p_1335.html


Or you could do a Dana 30 high steer set up like: http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/981/BTF-Cross-Over-Steering-Bracket-for-Dana-30-44-Knuckle.aspx

or: http://www.offroadonly.com/products/new/u-turn/

(I am not particular to any of these, just throwing out ideas)

Honestly though, you would be kicking yourself if you did all the work and paid all the money to stay with the stock brakes in the end. If you're going to do a conversion, might as well get the best of both worlds.

Yes, the WJ knuckle conversion takes some messing around and some fab work. As I keep saying, there are a couple of "right" ways to do it though, so you have to pick and choose a little bit.

 

[jdbwrx]

Has anyone written a final summary of these 16 pages, into a concise HOW TO and WHAT PARTS TO USE?

Where's the link?

This started out as a 2001 swap... then it spread out like an octopus...

No instructions, but parts lists:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245568791&postcount=16

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=245575112&postcount=30

 

[garr]

I have been researching like everybody else but I just want to do the cross over steering and beef up the track bar, tie rod and drag link. I just converted the rear to disc and the BB/MC to dual diaphram and with 33" it stops like a race car!! Can I do all of this and not do the big brakes up front? If so, do I still have to use the spacer and different upper/lower ball joints and such?

If you think your XJ on 33s with standard brakes stops like a race car you are going to think that an XJ with WJ brakes stops like a jet fighter does on a carrier deck after it catches the hook on the arresting cable :laugh3:


Does anyone have the Moog Part #'s for the 4 rod ends (L&R tie rod ends + the 2 on the Drag link) ?
Thanks in advance!

 

[djblade311]

• If you want stock WJ TREs (all four TREs):
  • Napa 269-3155
  • Napa 269-3158
  • Napa 269-3157
  • Napa 269-3156
• If you go 1 ton offset TREs for draglink:
  • ES2027 for pitman arm
  • I used an offset 1ton tre from parts mike for knuckle end but cant remember the PN

 

[garr]

• If you want stock WJ TREs (all four TREs):
  • Napa 269-3155
  • Napa 269-3158
  • Napa 269-3157
  • Napa 269-3156
• If you go 1 ton offset TREs for draglink:
  • ES2027 for pitman arm
  • I used an offset 1ton tre from parts mike for knuckle end but cant remember the PN

Thanks, I went with the Moog WJ TREs because I already have the JKS drag link & tie rod. Good price on them from Rock auto & fast shipping.

Now. Can anyone recommend where to purchase the 4 JKS 24mm Jam Nuts I need without getting raped on the shipping?

Also, Is it better to ream the knuckle to size or use the weld in inserts? What inserts will work with the WJ tie rod ends?

 

[Vanimal]

i reamed mine and it was easy, but you need to make sure the hole is square to the knuckle. you should really use a drill press capable of really low rpm with the knuckle clamped down good, or a mill.

 

[garr]

i reamed mine and it was easy, but you need to make sure the hole is square to the knuckle. you should really use a drill press capable of really low rpm with the knuckle clamped down good, or a mill.

Thanks, Is it the same taper for the WJ rod ends & the chevy 1/2 ton stuff?
What size reamer do I need?

 

[Vanimal]

i'm not sure if it's the same taper per foot or not, but it's definitely a bigger diameter taper for the 1 ton stuff vs wj. i do not know what reamer you need, i borrowed the one i used.

 

[Devilfrog]

I'm going to be using GM 1-tons and the Synergy Suspension double adjuster so I can bend the drag link as needed for clearance.
http://synergysuspension.com/Synergy-Suspension-Double-Adjuster-Tube-Adapter-p-19276.html
it's the same system used to adjust the stock JK tie rods.
The GM tie rod taper is 1.5" per foot, drill the holes to 5/8" prior to reaming. The drag link ends are the same taper, just a little deeper into it. This is substantially larger than the WJ taper which is the same as the stock XJ taper.

 

[garr]

OK, here is what I have found out, WJ tie rods us a smaller rod size than Chevy 1 ton stuff so you cannot just ream out the knuckle from above, some sort of insert must be used. Goferit seems to be the way most go but I do not like the Idea of drilling a 3/4" hole in the knuckle or using the lock nut on the tie rod instead of a castle nut/cotter pin.
Has anyone tried using the rock equipment tie rod flip kit?
http://ok4wd.com/rock-equipment-tie-rod-flip-kit.html
Instead of using the Goferit weld in spacers?
The price is not much different than using Goferit inserts after adding in the purchase of the 3/4" drill bit.

 

[Vanimal]

i reamed out my knuckles just fine, not sure where you got that info.

 

[garr]

i reamed out my knuckles just fine, not sure where you got that info.

Correct, If you go 1 ton you can ream them for OTK just fine, But if you use the standard ( the WJ, XJ, etc.., all use standard taper rod ends) taper rod end you need to use an insert.

 

[Vanimal]

oh gotcha, i thought you said you couldnt ream it for the 1 tons. hard to keep track of who's doing what in here lol

I think Souske has the same setup you're going with, seems to work well for him, dont recall him ever having steering issues

 

[2001XJ]

I might have overlooked this after 16 pages of reading but is there a certain part number or year for the WJ knuckles and what about the ball joints? Oh, yeah one more thing, I know stock BS and even BS with wheel spacers is a slight issue. I have 4" BS, will I be able to use the offest TREs and brake setup without issue?

TIA