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WJ brake upgrade for a 2001 XJ... Simplified?

Answers my question. Thanks! While not the ultimate goal, would I be able to run the stock steering (at least the ZJ tie rod) setup UTK with the WJ knuckles or do you have to go all the way to crossover? This could allow me to postpone welding the trackbar mount but still give me the WJ brakes. It would shrink the "parts I need to install" pile.
 
Yes, you can run stock steering no problem with the WJ knuckles. Keep in mind the WJ steering arms are clocked just a hair lower than the XJ's so if you are lifted you will be that much closer to maxing out the TRE's travel.
 
Yes, you can run stock steering no problem with the WJ knuckles. Keep in mind the WJ steering arms are clocked just a hair lower than the XJ's so if you are lifted you will be that much closer to maxing out the TRE's travel.

Negative. So I am correct in assuming I can use TRE's intended for XJ knuckles without worry on WJ knuckles? I'd like to be as clear as possible before I've torn everything down and find out I have to alter my parts list completely.
 
Well - I am confused to say least as to track bar, pitman arm, and drag link.

If I use a JKS drag link with WJ ends and a JKS adjustable track bar and a waggy pitman arm do I use a stock location frame bracket for the track bar ( I am using the over the axle lower bracket?

I have OTK steering and am using WJ ends on the JKS tie rod. I cannot find a stock height frame side track bar mount that is beefier than stock. Does anyone make one?

If I'm way off just slap me upside the head and tell me what I need to do. I think this is a case of way tooooooo much info out there to make sense of.

FNF
 
Negative. So I am correct in assuming I can use TRE's intended for XJ knuckles without worry on WJ knuckles? I'd like to be as clear as possible before I've torn everything down and find out I have to alter my parts list completely.

Yeah, your complete stock steering setup (or beefier replacement) will bolt up no problem. WJ and XJ TRE taper is the same.
 
Well - I am confused to say least as to track bar, pitman arm, and drag link.

If I use a JKS drag link with WJ ends and a JKS adjustable track bar and a waggy pitman arm do I use a stock location frame bracket for the track bar ( I am using the over the axle lower bracket?

I have OTK steering and am using WJ ends on the JKS tie rod. I cannot find a stock height frame side track bar mount that is beefier than stock. Does anyone make one?

If I'm way off just slap me upside the head and tell me what I need to do. I think this is a case of way tooooooo much info out there to make sense of.

FNF



Clayton offroad makes a really nice double shear stock height track-bar bracket. http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/18_78/products_id/309

As far as the rest of your questions go. Ideally the drag link and track bar should be parallel, in the same plane and of equal length. This is pretty hard to do without moving some stuff around. depending on the amount of lift you are running your angles will be different.

For OTK steering you are probably going to want to raise your lower track-bar bracket. JKS makes one http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/m...0_925&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=FABPartsas does TnT customshttp://www.tntcustoms.com/trackbarbracket-axleotk.aspx . I personally think the TnT customs is a beefier unit.

The waggy pitman arm seems to be longer and flatter. The flatness will increase your drag link angle compared to a stock drop pitman arm. This may put your trackbar (stock lower mount) parallel to the drag link. It is hard to tell.
 
Can someone tell me what length the stock WJ tie rod and drag link need to be shortened to?

If this was answered previously I apologize. I've read most of this thread but given it's size I may have missed it.
 
Just wanted to say, I used this thread to my advantage over the last month, got everything done.. and am EXTREMELY happy with the turn out.. My parts list contains this

WJ knuckles $80
XJ ball Joints (i DO plan to replace the B/Js with WJ's next month) $free
JKS 1/4 Hub spacers $free
Akebono Calipers $80
Parts store Brand pads $16
2003 explorer sport trac 4x4 rotors $86
Chevy Brake lines $30
factory ZJ hubs (90s XJ) $free
Ruff stuff 3/4 Heim steering (48" tie rod 30" drag link 26.5" trac bar)$300
Ruff stuff ota track bar bracket $30
JCR Swaybar mounts $20


I did have to lightly grind 1/16" of the outer Hub surface off, My Tie rod and drag link got a light massage in a JD2 Model 3 bender, and i also did a durango steering box at the same time.. i LOVE the brakes, LOVE the steering.. this is absolutely the best money spent, considering i tow 5000lb+ loads often, The brakes are a MUST.. i plan to do better pads, and rotors to make it even better.. but for now, i can lock up 35" Kevlars at 45mph With no problems..

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My tie rod knuckle to knuckle is 54" my drag link is 32" but your drag link will depend on your lift... Hope it helps
Rick
It kinda does - but I want to know the length of just the rods (without the ends). I need to know how much to tell my guy to shorten them by.

As for the drag link - yeah I didn't take that into consideration.
 
I hate to revive this thread But I need a quick answer.

On a standard 2001 conversion to 2002 WJ brakes using the JKS welded on spacers,
What year XJ Unit bearing would be the proper choice ?
 
Actually I don't think they will. IIRC the WJ rotor has a larger diameter than the XJ rotor, I know the WJ bolt pattern is 5 on 5, and the XJ is 5 on 4.5 so you cant just swap the WJ rotor on the XJ unit bearings, and you can't use the XJ rotor with the WJ calipers because they wont line up correctly. If the WJ rotors will fit over center part of the XJ bearing then you could probably just have the WJ rotors redrilled to the 5 on 5.4 bolt pattern.

Also 99 XJ are cast rotors. Pre 99 have a mix of the cast, and composite rotors. You can only use the corresponding rotor with it's compatible unit bearing.
 
1999.5/2000/2001 XJ unit bearings.

You can't simply swap to the WJ bearings redrilled, the XJ stub shaft is not long enough to go through and still get the washer, nut, and cotter pin installed, unfortunately.

scooby, sorry, you're wrong on the cast vs composite... all 1999.0 and earlier (down to the early 90s switch from the RENIX brake setup) have one setup, all 1999.5 and later have the other. Vehicles that have had some of these parts replaced by a previous owner - all bets are off, I have even seen different types on each side before :doh:
 
So Using 2001 XJ Unit bearings with redrilled WJ rotors will work?

I am going to leave the steering stock as for my use it is fine (at least Until I get the up-grade bug again),
what is important to me is the big brakes !
 
your rotor choices are

- WJ Rotors (require redrilling for the proper bolt pattern)
- '95 (and up?) crown vic rotors - do not require redrilling of rotors nor grinding of Unit Bearings/Hub assemblies
- 2001 Ford Explorer Sportrac rotors are good if you dont mind grinding 1/8th inch off the unit bearing/hub assemblies.
 
your rotor choices are

- WJ Rotors (require redrilling for the proper bolt pattern)
- '95 (and up?) crown vic rotors - do not require redrilling of rotors nor grinding of Unit Bearings/Hub assemblies
- 2001 Ford Explorer Sportrac rotors are good if you dont mind grinding 1/8th inch off the unit bearing/hub assemblies.


I am starting to collect parts for this upgrade....looks like the rotor to go with is the '95 & up Crown Vic for a easy/smooth conversion....correct??
 
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