rockthrasherxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- grand junction, Co
id buy a set of those bumper mounts those a trick
-
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Why I won't be doing any wheeling this year.
- Thread starter EricsXJ
- Start date
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
i like those rear bumper brackets, i thought about making something similar for mine. good to see them in real life instead of just in my brain. whats you're reasoning against the JK44?
- Location
- Reno, Nevada
- weak tubes = need sleeving
- weak inner C's = need gussets
- lack of true high-steer options (Reid knuckles help somewhat)
- stock ball joints aren't good, aftermarket is $
All the above could be dealt with to make a strong axle under an XJ but then I would still be stuck with 5 on 5" bolt pattern and unit bearings.
XJLI
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Long Island, NY
well spyntec makes hubs but those are so expensive theyre beyond what i think any normal person could reason for a XJ build. if youre using the JK rear, you have the 5x5 back there anyway.. JK axles/u joints (especially alloys) are pretty strong, strong enough that i wouldnt go crazy worrying about the need for lockouts. plus youre at the correct width to match the rear. just my $.02
- Location
- Reno, Nevada
I have Nitro 35-spline shafts for the rear JK44 that are cross drilled for 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern. That opens up more options for the front axle, and if in the future the rear 44 doesn't work out I can switch over to a 60 easily.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
So are you going for a front D60 then?
There are no D44 ball joints that are bigger than D30 stuff.
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
77.5-79 bronco d44 has king pins. anyone know how well these work?
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
uh...wut?
- Location
- Reno, Nevada
Yes.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Any particular reason you're avoiding a 1 ton series rear axle?
Bolt pattern or something?
Bolt pattern or something?
- Location
- Reno, Nevada
When I started planning this out a couple years ago I didn't really want to run one-tons - didn't want a full width 60 in the front and didn't want to have to narrow one either. Still wanted to keep it streetable too, so the weight increase wasn't appealing either. I started looking at the JK axles and learning what is good and bad and it seemed like they would be a good fit for what I wanted to do with the XJ and running 37's (there are guys who run 40's on them). And soon after I stumbled across a screaming deal (can't get much better unless it was free) on a rear JK44 out of a rubicon minus the carrier and factory locker. Everything is new including disc brakes. I should be able to sell the 32-spline stock shafts and come out even on what I payed for the axle. Given that it already has rear discs, I can build this axle cheaper than any Dana 60 or 14-bolt, since no matter what axle I am going to put an ARB, aftermarket shafts and gear it. Those costs are a wash. So I'd like to build the JK rear axle and see how it does. Worst case I could sell it back to the JK crowd - plenty of them looking for stronger rear axles (those that don't have the stronger Rubicon version) or unless I somehow destroy the axle (knock on wood) which I don't see myself doing on 37's.
I know my axle decisions may not be what the majority of people would do, but it doesn't really bother me. I'm not the first one to use JK axles either but I do think I'll be the first (at least that I know of) to run a rear JK44 completely built and in combination with something different up front. Who knows... I could still do a 609, aftermarket 60, or even a Pro-Rock 44 housing with traditional 44 ends (yes I know back to the ball-joint thing) or 60 ends...
- Location
- San Diego
clearly the only option is 5 ton rockwells....
coldoath
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West Texas
I have since taken it out, sanded and painted it. Looks sexy now. We didn't have time to paint. Did the rear swap all in one night, about 5 hours. No E-locker but it is a next gen D44. I'm rolling with 4.88 gears on 37x12.50x17 Kevlars on 17" 2008 Rubicon wheels. Front is a Rubicon D44 with e-locker, chromo shafts and sleeved. Just about to finish the swap. Working on the long arms at the moment.
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MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
The D60 in the rear of my MJ came factory with discs (twin piston calipers), flange, and smooth bottom (regular D60 internals).
I can understand if you got the axle for really cheap though.
Begster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cape Cod/Boston, Mass
This is what you mean to say. And unless you plan on retubing them, or running ford factory style radius arm, don't bother.
Vanimal
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- escondido, ca
pretty sure mr. n's site said they had kingpins, but i could be wrong.
good to know though, guess i'll search for a different option.
DeftwillP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Round Rock TX
What begster is saying is that some years don't have tubes that go all the way from the diff to the C. The tubes stop inside the cast wedges. You cut the wedges off and you're left with really short tubes.
deucestudios
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Malvern, PA / JFC
Mopar, you got one of these ISU rears? Late 90s with stock calipers or early 90s and you switch out the backing plates? 30, 32, or 35 spline shafts? Mine are 30s, but have the big spindles. Damn I should read your build... you were sayin in another thread you got the late 80s tight-wad 60 up front too...
Vanimal look for a F250 then they're leaves up front late 70s. No radius arm wedge BS to be concerned about. hahaha, spend more time at the junkyard, and less on the internet.
aperwork
Vanimal look for a F250 then they're leaves up front late 70s. No radius arm wedge BS to be concerned about. hahaha, spend more time at the junkyard, and less on the internet.
aperwork
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