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which one would you do? Weld or aussie locker

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88rockxj said:
if driven correctly a welded frt will break LESS joints then a non welded frt, and my reasoning behind that statement is the fact that with an open diff all of your power goes to one joint instead of spreading the load between both joints.

that being said majority of people break more with a welded frt becuase along with it comes bigger tires and different driving style and attempting harder obstacles.


I'm going to call bullshit on that, unless driven correctly means never leaving the mud. Either way, an aussie locker would break less than welded, no matter HOW you drive - and that was the question.
 
Shomsky462 said:
sick thanks dude. i think i will pay someone to do it considering that i was with my friend on the freeway when his rear 3rd grenaded and he practically melted his pinion. thanx for the advice but yeah i live a couple hours away from tahoe, and we have a cabin up there so yeah ill post in there when i get my gears

thanx -ryan


I think a few of those guys live in the north and east bay as well..
 
cal said:
I'm going to call bullshit on that, unless driven correctly means never leaving the mud. Either way, an aussie locker would break less than welded, no matter HOW you drive - and that was the question.



did i say compared to an aussie locker? the question involved welding and i was stating my opinion on welding , i did not tell you any opinion on the aussie


thanks for your awesome input i will use it daily
 
88rockxj said:
did i say compared to an aussie locker? the question involved welding and i was stating my opinion on welding , i did not tell you any opinion on the aussie


Let's look at the thread subject: "Re: which one would you do? Weld or aussie locker"

Either way, I believe you are wrong about welded spiders breaking less front shafts than open. In fact, I'm going to drop the believe.

YOU ARE WRONG. I don't stand firm on a platform very often, so enjoy it while you can. There is enough bad advice on this forum to fill a freight train with books (and even someone here to drive that train..), but I think 'a welded frt will break LESS joints then a non welded frt' takes the cake and maybe the oven too.

Go ahead and weld your front spiders. But don't go around and tell guys that are looking to do things the right way that welded spiders will break less shafts than open, or even that its a good idea. It's just not true. It's a ghetto "i cant afford a $60 spool" way of locking a diff until it blows up.
 
I cant say youd break more or less with a locker over a weld job, but i can say, the weld job is more consistant in handling and done properly, will be more reliable than a lunchbox locker.
 
Jeffro600 said:
I cant say youd break more or less with a locker over a weld job, but i can say, the weld job is more consistant in handling and done properly, will be more reliable than a lunchbox locker.


Lunchbox lockers to not fail enough to call welded spiders more reliable? I'll concede that they may not be less reliable.

As far as more consistant handling goes, that has NOT been my experiance, but even if it has been yours, it does not validate it as 'good advice' to someone just learning about life with lockers.
 
Less moving parts, no springs or pins to break or fail, no gears or teeth to wear out, less peices....how is that not simpler and more reliable?

Handling is more consistant, plain and simple...there is no ratcheting, no unlocking and locking without warning...its ALWAYS locked...how are you not calling that consistant? Have you ever actually ran a spool or lincoln locker??? :huh:

Ive got a lock-right in the front of mine and i hate it...have had nothing but problems with lunchbox's from the beginning. Assuming that the weld job was done correctly, id take one anyday over a lunchbox locker...a full carrier replacement locker(full detroit) is a totally different story.

Im not giving advice here...im telling my experiences...you guys can take them with a grain of salt.
 
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Jeffro600 said:
Less moving parts, no springs or pins to break or fail, no gears or teeth to wear out, less peices....how is that not simpler and more reliable?

Less to go wrong does not mean more reliable. If i have two different parts that never break, they are equaly reliable, even if one is potentially stronger (although, thats still arguiable).


Jeffro600 said:
Handling is more consistant, plain and simple...there is no ratcheting, no unlocking and locking without warning...its ALWAYS locked...how are you not calling that consistant?

I don't get much locking and unlocking without warning. When you hit the gas, it locks, when you let off, after a moment it unlocks. If I'm moving my foot muscles, I'm warned. The delay you may get before it unlocks is no more predictable than the wheel hop your going to get with welded spiders.

Jeffro600 said:
Ive got a lock-right in the front of mine and i hate it...have had nothing but problems with lunchbox's from the beginning. Assuming that the weld job was done correctly, id take one anyday over a lunchbox locker...a full carrier replacement locker(full detroit) is a totally different story.

YOU may have had nothing but problems with them. You havent said what the problem was yet, just that its unreliable and unpredicable, which I'm going to disagree with. But again, your welcome to your opinion. That doesn't make it fact, and still goes back to wether or not someone new to lockers should get an aussie or weld his spiders. If he's never had a locker up front before, welding his spiders is not the way to go.
 
I see you edited your post while I was quoting it, so I'll address the edits.

Yes, I have run a spool. On the trail, it was -beautiful-. I would not want to run it on the street though, and I would not suggest it for someone not running strong axles with alloy shafts. I would not suggest one on the front, either. Spool the rear, detroit, lunchbox, or arb up front.


You may indeed just be giving your experiances here, but it was worded as if it was advice. perhaps pointing that out in the beginning would have saved us both alot of typing - on the other hand, there have been some valid points both directions that may not hurt for some people to read and consider.
 
cal said:
If he's never had a locker up front before, welding his spiders is not the way to go.

Here, ill make your post disection easier and double space all my sentances....:wierd:

This is more "opinion"...i guess yours is the whole truth and nothing but fact?? :rolleyes:

Really, he can do whatever his heart desires...but to say you cant recomend a welded diff to a newbie is a little rediculous.

Its cheap, it works and its a simple...am i missing something here???
 
Jeffro600 said:
Here, ill make your post disection easier and double space all my sentances....:wierd:

This is more "opinion"...i guess yours is the whole truth and nothing but fact?? :rolleyes:

Really, he can do whatever his heart desires...but to say you cant recomend a welded diff to a newbie is a little rediculous.

Its cheap, it works and its a simple...am i missing something here???


I have seen newbie's weld rear diffs. they don;t last.
 
Jeffro600 said:
Its cheap, it works and its a simple...am i missing something here???

There is a thread right here that covers the part I guess your missing.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72421&page=1&pp=30

*sigh*

I'm going to bow out of this one. There is enough detail here for someone to understand that if they have to research about welding their spiders, they just plain should not do it. I'm not trying to change YOUR mind, and its my belief your posts will have changed enough OTHER peeps minds to get the point through.
 
WOW thats alot of good stuff here...

for one thing I'm not a newbie with welding up front spiders. and LOTS of people run welded rears with Toyotas and JEEPS...

the whole question was: is a aussie lock really worth $230 in a OFf road only jeep... I don't ask about breaking anything or IF the weld will hold... just how well the aussies automatically unlock for a front.

but I think I got what I was locking for.. NO aussie will take you moving to lockup, and still put a load when turning. so I will weld up my front, with a aussie in the rear.
or maybe I will wait and put a aussie up front then tell people if its better then welded. :D
 
drbobxj said:
WOW thats alot of good stuff here...

for one thing I'm not a newbie with welding up front spiders. and LOTS of people run welded rears with Toyotas and JEEPS...

the whole question was: is a aussie lock really worth $230 in a OFf road only jeep... I don't ask about breaking anything or IF the weld will hold... just how well the aussies automatically unlock for a front.

but I think I got what I was locking for.. NO aussie will take you moving to lockup, and still put a load when turning. so I will weld up my front, with a aussie in the rear.
or maybe I will wait and put a aussie up front then tell people if its better then welded. :D


Why would you weld the front and put a locker in the rear? That's a bit backawrds..?
 
cal said:
Let's look at the thread subject: "Re: which one would you do? Weld or aussie locker"

Either way, I believe you are wrong about welded spiders breaking less front shafts than open. In fact, I'm going to drop the believe.

YOU ARE WRONG. I don't stand firm on a platform very often, so enjoy it while you can. There is enough bad advice on this forum to fill a freight train with books (and even someone here to drive that train..), but I think 'a welded frt will break LESS joints then a non welded frt' takes the cake and maybe the oven too.

Go ahead and weld your front spiders. But don't go around and tell guys that are looking to do things the right way that welded spiders will break less shafts than open, or even that its a good idea. It's just not true. It's a ghetto "i cant afford a $60 spool" way of locking a diff until it blows up.



thats nice atleast i provided a theory as to why i believe its less hard on parts , guess what smat guy if you have a disco axle with a cable hjooked up to it you can unlock your axle for turning sharp corners or while on hard surface. then when your going through a hard obstacle if you have an open frt youre going to have to hammer and use your momentum, with it welded you can pull the cable and lock both up and drive slowly through it then once your through the hard part unlock it


have you ever welded any spider gears?
if so how many?
have you ever ran a welded axle?
if so how many?
how many broke?


ive personaly welded almost a dozen, sounds like you just read a bunch of intarweb crap. let me guess a roll cage out of sched 40 isnt better then nothing and unsafe right?

like i said if driven properly it will spread the load between two joint instead of one, like i said under the proper conditions. i would only weld spiders in an axle that has manual hubs or a vac disco hooked to a cable.


but since you provided so much technical info i think youre right, haha not . like i said alot of people break more with a welded axle becuase along with it comes bigger tires and different driving style if driven properly and unlocked in the right times will last longer.


if no one thought outside the box our wheelin world would be much different.
 
Jeffro600 said:
Ive got a lock-right in the front of mine and i hate it...have had nothing but problems with lunchbox's from the beginning. Assuming that the weld job was done correctly, id take one anyday over a lunchbox locker...a full carrier replacement locker(full detroit) is a totally different story.


but if you hate the lunchbox so much that why dont you take it out sell it to me and replace the spider gears and weld them?
 
Shomsky462 said:
but if you hate the lunchbox so much that why dont you take it out sell it to me and replace the spider gears and weld them?

Because when i did the lock-right, i made the mistake of tossing the spider gears...otherwise, it would be welded.

Ill be doing an axle swap around the first of the year...if you really want it, lemme know and ill see what we can work out.
 
Well im pretty sure ive said it 3 times at least, but its a LOCK-RIGHT!!! :laugh3:

Doesnt have much more than maybe 5000 miles on it...maybe 500 offroad.
 
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