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which one would you do? Weld or aussie locker

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cal said:
When your going around a corner and both wheels are being driven, the vehicle will move at the speed of the wheel making the smaller arc (inside wheel), the aussie locker will allow the wheel on the outside to move faster, so it does not build up tension on the shaft. If i were on my desktop, I'd draw you a little diagram with stick figures. ;)

So why do they say not to install a aussie locker in a Non discounect d30?? why couldn't you drive it on the street?
 
drbobxj said:
So why do they say not to install a aussie locker in a Non discounect d30?? why couldn't you drive it on the street?

I don't understand either of those questions. I've never seen them say not to install one on a non disco d30, nor have I seen anyone say not to drive it on the street if you did. I'm not saying that no one has ever said it, but I've never seen it - and would have to question them if I did.
 
From their website..

"Front Axle Installations
The installation manual provided with your Aussie Locker contains information on proper front axle installations. The Aussie Locker works well in front axles for 4 Wheel Drive vehicles when they are installed in a vehicle with locking hubs or those equipped with front axle disconnect.

Under no circumstances should the Aussie Locker be installed in the front of a full- time 4 wheel drive vehicle.

To prevent damage to the drive line no four wheel drive vehicle should be driven on the highway with the front hubs locked and the 4 wheel drive engaged. The Aussie Locker in the front differential of a 4 wheel drive vehicle (excepting full-time 4WD), properly equipped and installed, provides dramatic off road traction and very good on-highway handling. "

A non disconnect axle != full time four wheel drive. Having ANY hard locker .. aussie, lock rite, detroit, etc on the front of a full time four wheel drive will make it handle erratic. It will pull 'strait' when you try and go around a corner or even just change lanes.

When they say "front disconnect axle" I believe they are reffering to the fact the front driveshaft is no longer getting power when out of four wheel drive. Remember they are australians and word things different.


Granted, it does the same thing offroad, but you arent on pavement or do not have pavement levels of traction most of the time, nor are you doing 70 miles per hour..
 
Ok,.. I think I get it now..

but still fuzzy on how it would work. Does anyone have a aussie in front but has also had at onetime a welded or spool or arb? would like to hear from them.

I ask ARB because I have a cable to my discounect so I can unlock one wheel. I have ran it before welded like this never had a problem just hard to steer in tight places and want to see if the aussie would be $230 better or not. going to put one in the rear too.
 
XJ_ranger said:
you cant put a lockright/no slip in your rear end...

trust me...

if you want one - put it in the front, or buy a new rear carrier, figure out how to install it, then install the locker...
why is this i dont understand. could i put an aussie in the rear? or should i just keep the limited slip and put an aussie in the front? or could i put the aussie in the rear and put the limited slip that i already have in the front?... dumb q but jus wondering. i have a chrysler 8.25 and a dana 30 h.p. reverse is this vaccum disconnect or no its a 91.?
 
ok i dont think it is vaccum acctuated. so what would you do? lock front? why cant i lock the rear?
 
locking the front of a none disco front will decrease steering ability a bit, and increase breakability of shafts, but whatever they take 5 minutes to replace.

EDIT: If you have them that is
 
Shomsky462 said:
why is this i dont understand. could i put an aussie in the rear? or should i just keep the limited slip and put an aussie in the front? or could i put the aussie in the rear and put the limited slip that i already have in the front?... dumb q but jus wondering. i have a chrysler 8.25 and a dana 30 h.p. reverse is this vaccum disconnect or no its a 91.?

yeah - take the LS from the rear and try to put it in the front...

:wierd:

an aussie wont work in your rear end...
 
drbobxj said:
Ok,.. I think I get it now..

but still fuzzy on how it would work. Does anyone have a aussie in front but has also had at onetime a welded or spool or arb? would like to hear from them.

I ask ARB because I have a cable to my discounect so I can unlock one wheel. I have ran it before welded like this never had a problem just hard to steer in tight places and want to see if the aussie would be $230 better or not. going to put one in the rear too.

I would say its worth $230 yes. In fact, I'd say its worth $500 for a full detroit, if you were seriouse about it and mean business. I run not an aussie but a no-slip in the rear and am pleased with it, I've driven jeeps that had a spool rear / lockrite front, I was VERY pleased with how that drove offroad (don't try spools on the road though..). I drove a cj7 with welded spiders front and rear, and found it very unwieldly.. I would never do that to a car. That guy carried 3 front shafts for each side, and believe me he used them.

*shrug*

Do what you are going to do, but make no mistakes, welding the front will *NOT* save you money if you actually plan on driving the vehicle, disconnect axle or no. If that was the good solution, people wouldnt spend the cash for lockers. :)

-Cal
 
hahahah that what im going to do put my limited slip from the rear and put in in front. it will like hella fit and everything. im reading up on my gears using myu chiltons book that i have. there is a lot of crap that goes into gears. all the shims races bearing cases bearings hella crap.

how hard is it to install new gears yourself? my step dad has a video he says on how to do it yourself but i dont know it looks really difficult or does it just take a lot of time? why wont an aussie fit in the rear? will a ez locker or somethin fit?
 
Shomsky462 said:
how hard is it to install new gears yourself?

Depends on if you have the proper tools. Id recomend you sit down with someone whos done it before and watch them do it for the first time before you jump head first into re-gearing. Its a VERY delicate opperation that requires alot of patients and perfection to work properly.
 
Shomsky462 said:
hahahah that what im going to do put my limited slip from the rear and put in in front. it will like hella fit and everything. im reading up on my gears using myu chiltons book that i have. there is a lot of crap that goes into gears. all the shims races bearing cases bearings hella crap.

how hard is it to install new gears yourself? my step dad has a video he says on how to do it yourself but i dont know it looks really difficult or does it just take a lot of time? why wont an aussie fit in the rear? will a ez locker or somethin fit?


:wow:



:looney:
 
ahah nice smileys. anyways yeah i want to regear my front and rear to 4.56's
and what im asking you is if i do enough research learn about all the crap like how deep the pinion needs to be (does the depth of the ring gear matter or not? are there shims for the ring gear?) and how to calibrate it right and watch the regearing video do you think i could do it? i have a lot of patience when it comes to doing something i like but i was wondering if it is a matter of not propper tools or a matter of not having the patience or time. thanx for replying though. oh and do you know of any websites that have regearing instuctions for a dana 30? thanx guys
 
Shomsky462 said:
hahahah that what im going to do put my limited slip from the rear and put in in front. it will like hella fit and everything. im reading up on my gears using myu chiltons book that i have. there is a lot of crap that goes into gears. all the shims races bearing cases bearings hella crap.

how hard is it to install new gears yourself? my step dad has a video he says on how to do it yourself but i dont know it looks really difficult or does it just take a lot of time? why wont an aussie fit in the rear? will a ez locker or somethin fit?


Don't do the front your first time. If it blows up you lose alot more control than the rear. I build engines, I've done a transmission or two, suspension work.. I pay someone else to do my gears.. and only my gears. :)
 
i know i really want someone else to do my gears but i really dont have the money so do you think i should just wait longer to get the money or do it myself i mean is it really worth 200 bucks for someone else to do it?

thanx for all the input this thread has really helped :0 :D :)

:eek: :D :)
 
Shomsky462 said:
i know i really want someone else to do my gears but i really dont have the money so do you think i should just wait longer to get the money or do it myself i mean is it really worth 200 bucks for someone else to do it?

thanx for all the input this thread has really helped :0 :D :)

:eek: :D :)

is it worth $200 to have it not blow up, leave you stranded, and have to not only buy all the parts again and but pay someone to do it next time.

To do it right, the TOOLS will cost you more than the cost of getting it geared will. If you arent going to do it again and maybe again and again, its cheaper to pay someone. You may find a club member in your area that can do it cheap, if you post in your chapter forum.. Your not too far from a lot of the intermountain guys? A bunch of them are pretty hardcore.

-C
 
sick thanks dude. i think i will pay someone to do it considering that i was with my friend on the freeway when his rear 3rd grenaded and he practically melted his pinion. thanx for the advice but yeah i live a couple hours away from tahoe, and we have a cabin up there so yeah ill post in there when i get my gears

thanx -ryan
 
if driven correctly a welded frt will break LESS joints then a non welded frt, and my reasoning behind that statement is the fact that with an open diff all of your power goes to one joint instead of spreading the load between both joints.

that being said majority of people break more with a welded frt becuase along with it comes bigger tires and different driving style and attempting harder obstacles.
 
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