Which lift would you buy?

[ponyracer1]

I'm about to buy an 01 classic, bone stock with the 30/35 axles. I'm looking to run 33's with flares on either rubicon TJ wheels or aftermarket 15X8 wheels with 3.25 backspacing.

Here's my 2 choices so far:

Rusty's 4.5 with rear springs and bent LCS (made for stock wheels), Rubicon wheels, and rusty's flares.

Lift $669
Arms $140
Wheels $350
Flares $379
Total $1538 plus shipping

OR

RE 4.5 with springs, aftermarket wheels, flares.

Lift $1008
Wheels $350
Flares $379
Total $1737 Plus shipping

Or should I just go for the Rusty's 6.5 and say to hell with the flares? Then I also need a SYE though.

Also are long arm kit's that much better? I've also looked at T&T, they look sweet but 2 grand?? Are they really worth it?

Thanks in advance

 

[cjwalkeriii]

I personally bought a rusty's lift though it is only 3". However, from what I understand, re is the way to go...

 

[BlueGerbil]

I would and will stay away from furhter Rusty products. I think you´ll like the RE-components better.

 

[ponyracer1]

The old "get what you pay for" liftkit huh?

Any feedback on the RE lifts? 4.5 vs 5.5 etc? I'm only looking to clear 33's without rubbing to much.

 

[javik]

since you have the lpdana 30 i would suggest getting upper and lower adjustable control arms to dial that lp in withough vibes. I have had a rustys 4.5 (netted around 5) with 100k on it and its not too bad, the service is pretty good, but the product just didnt seem top notch. Iv had no failures, but other people on this forum have had very bad catastrophic failures. I think im going to try Rubicon Express this next go round. Dont be fooled though, RE has there problems too, like asshats that answer the phone if you call them direct, and springs that sometimes are way bigger than their advertized hieght.

Oh, and how much total money are you looking to spend?

 

[ponyracer1]

I'll have about $2500 total to spend, and I'm trying to get lift, wheels, and new MTR's for that money.

If I do the long arm and SYE then that leaves me with wheel money but no tires.

I could do the 4.5 kit for $1K, new MTR's for $800, then still have enough left for flares and a cheap set of wheels.


Is the long arm kit worth the extra money for a weekend warrior/daily driver that will probably spend most of it's time being driven to work by the wife?

She likes lifted trucks so that's no problem, I'm just wondering about the on road manners of a 4.5 vs a long arm 5.5.

Any ideas?

Thanks

 

[juicexj24]

Make one use several compants like a lot of people did on here. At least I did because no one made a kit that did what I wanted it to do.

 

[Yucca-Man]

If you're looking for ride quality, either long-arm it or add Drop Brackets to the lift. RE6130 4.5" doesn't come with the DBs while their 5.5" does - but you can put the DBs on the 4.5" and it makes a world of difference in the ride. http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/re_db.html

 

[Carp.xj]

Any feedback on the RE lifts? 4.5 vs 5.5 etc? I'm only looking to clear 33's without rubbing to much.

I say go for the RE 5.5" inch kit....but not necessarily the long arms. If you want long arms look TnT's long arm kit. But it doesn't sound like you need/want long arms....
I have been running the RE 4.5" superflex for almost two years, during this time period I've added components, and now I basically have the 5.5" kit.
What I'm saying is: save some money and buy the 5.5" kit up front so you save money in the long run.
Oh and you were figuring $350 for wheels....just get some black steelies for $35 each.
In terms of flares, bushwackers look nice, but aren't too functional and are pricey.
Good luck.

Seb (SoCal)
'96 XJ
RE 4.5" (@ 5.5" of lift), 33" MTRs, 4.56s, bla bla bla

 

[ponyracer1]

Thanks for the help guy's, I'm leaning towards the RE 5.5 kit. Hey yucca man, great site!! Would you recomend that sye kit? Do you think your's was a "one off" or are there issues with that kit?

Thanks

 

[95XJ Country]

I am looking in the same direction as you are.... in my research I have found that the SYE is a MUST and you need to figure in another $300 for the driveshaft. I went to a local shop that had a complete Rusty's setup and a complete RE kit. The rusty's looks beefier but the RE looks like it gives better articulation and came with more components. I am leaning twards the RE6300 5.5" XJLA Extreme Duty kit.... it seems to have all the components that I am looking for. Also if you are going to 33" tires dont forget to add the price of the new ring and pinion (4.56:1)setup front and rear. I have found that the D35 is pointless in building so i am in the market for a D44 now. I thought this was going to be a cheap project and it can be but unfortunatly I suffer from gottahavethebestittis and the bill is growing quickly. When this thing is done it should be bad ass Oh did I mention you need new shocks....there goes another $400 bucks! Just remember you only live once and the hurst doesn't stop at the ATM on the way to the graveyard so enjoy it while you can!

 

[Cox89XJ]

I have the Rusty's 4.5 full spring kit. I only live about 70 miles north of Rusty's in TN. I drove down and picked up my kit and did'ent have to pay sale tax. Also they pitched in a cap and some decals. I'm pleased with the lift and their service.

 

[LilRedRover]

don't know if it is true or not but for what it's worth I read somewhere that Rustys and Rubicon Express get their springs from the same manufactures, that neither of them make their springs (leaf or coil). Don't know if it's true, but as far as the lift goes I would look at what the lift comes with other than springs b/c supposedly they are the same.

 

[javik]

I'll have about $2500 total to spend, and I'm trying to get lift, wheels, and new MTR's for that money.

If I do the long arm and SYE then that leaves me with wheel money but no tires.

I could do the 4.5 kit for $1K, new MTR's for $800, then still have enough left for flares and a cheap set of wheels.


Is the long arm kit worth the extra money for a weekend warrior/daily driver that will probably spend most of it's time being driven to work by the wife?

She likes lifted trucks so that's no problem, I'm just wondering about the on road manners of a 4.5 vs a long arm 5.5.

Any ideas?

Thanks

I will tell you right now that with only 2500 bucks your options are limited and longarm is absolutely out of the question.

anything over 3" has a high (90%)probability of needing a SYE, which is $200 for a SYE plus another $300 roughly for a shaft. So count on it.

So with the SYE your down to 2K, So if you really want to get 33s your either gonna need spacers or rims. It will probably cost you about 800 for 33 Mtrs and if you go super cheap black steelies its fair to say another 200 bucks

Your down to 1K, which aint much concerning lifts? You really might have a problem with that LP dana 30 so i would recommend some kind of adjustable CA. The best deal that is a COMPLETE kit is probably the 4" kit from DPGoffroad.com which with shocks comes to about 1200.

As for flares, borrow your neighbors sawzall and hack those fenders away, flare rnt in you budget.

As it is your looking at 2700, with 3.55 gears(im assuming) that will make your XJ act like a pig in mud. This also doesnt include the 50 bucks for an alignment, and another 100 bucks for the "oh #@*^" fund which alway comes in handy when you break a bolt or need to coerce your neighbors help with amberbach

So your in about 3K at the minimum. You might be able to shave it getting budget tires ect, but the reality is, this aint a poor mans sport. I would advise doing a nice RE 3.5, stock rims and 31s. Good luck whatever you choose, if your within earshot of dayton ohio ill smell the amberbach and come give ya a hand

 

[Menzenski]

Don't forget to budget money for upgrades to or a replacement for your D35.

 

[ponyracer1]

The D30/35 will go asap when I return to the states, I'm currently stationed in england and a d44 or 60 is worth it's weight in gold. Jeeps over here only come with the 35. Axle upgrades are in the 2nd phase, for now I'm just trying to get some altitude.

 

[vegas_baja]

So far I agree with everybody in this thread about lift options for your year. I see you havent bought the rig yet. I have a 2000 and if I could do it over again I would have found a 99 or earlier. I've had nothing but frustration making things work on it such as lift and aftermarket mods.
2000 and 2001 cherokee's = low pinion dana 30, different exhaust manifold and distributorless ignition. If your heart is set on buying the 01 than either plan on a small lift with 31's, or spending lots of money making the 33's work properly. javik and Yucca-Man hit the nail on the head with your lift options. Take to heart what info they have given you.

 

[ponyracer1]

Anyone else had problems with the 00-01 XJ's? I'm swapping out the low pinion axle the first chance I get so that's not an issue. Couple more for you, on the RE 5.5 short arm, the uppers and lowers are non adjustable. Is this going to hurt me when it comes time for alignment or dialing in the front pinion angle? Or are they pretty good with out any adjustment? Also, what shocks are the best for the XJ's weight and on road performance.

Thanks again for all the info

 

[javik]

yes, you more than likely are going to have to upgrade to adjustables as long as you have that low pinion.

 

[jonbob]

I've been running Rusty's 4.5" kit for about 3 months now and it seems to work fine with the low pinion (I have a 2001 with lp30 and 8.25). I don't get any vibrations when I'm driving in 2wd and in 4wd it's not noticable when I'm wheeling and at low speeds. If I engage 4wd while driving above 30 mph I do get some vibes, but not very much. I did have to get a SYE immediately though to fix the vibes I was getting from the rear driveshaft.