Which lift would you buy?

[ponyracer1]

You know what? Having movey and not knowing what to buy is worse for me than not having money at all!!

Ok here goes, I've been okay'd by the boss to spend a little more money than I though I had.

My question is between short arms and long arms

What's the point of the long arms??

I'm looking at a guy on ebay that sells the RE 5.5 with free shipping and shocks for the same price as RE does. He also has the same deal on the 5.5 LA kit. Is it worth spending the extra $400 that would have bought me the SYE kit to get the LA's??

Thanks guy's

 

[Yucca-Man]

Is it worth spending the extra $400 that would have bought me the SYE kit to get the LA's??

Nope - because you'd still need the SYE. Count on needing an SYE with almost all 96+ XJs, and especially with the low-pinion D30 count on needing a set of adjustables.

Long-Arm suspensions move the mounting/pivoting points of the front axle farther back. This gives them a flatter operating angle that soaks up bumps more easily, and allows them to droop rather well.

Short arms at the same height would have a steep operating angle when sitting static, so they tend to transfer bumps up into the frame when driving. Additionally, since they are already drooped they tend not to move as well as a longer arm.

Drop Brackets are an incorporation of the two. While they still use short(ish) arms, the rear mount for those arms is approximately 4" lower than the stock points. This means the arms operate along a more horizontal plane again, so they can saok up bumps and flex.

I need to get pics up of the three one of these days.

 

[ponyracer1]

I got what they are and the design differences, but what are the advantages of each? What makes a long arm better than a short arm? Are they worth the extra money? Or is it a case of "I've got the latest and greatest"?

I'm planning on swaping out the LP front and running a SYE on no matter what lift I get. I was just stating that for the price of the lifts I can get a short arm and an SYE/shaft for the price of a LA kit.

Also this truck is going to be a high use daily driver for the family, not a weekend bruiser. I'm very concerned with the on road manners and the ride, that's why I'm looking at the 5.5 with the drop brackets instead of the 4.5.

Thanks

 

[ponyracer1]

ANYONE?????

 

[Randy_66]

Nope - because you'd still need the SYE. Count on needing an SYE with almost all 96+ XJs, and especially with the low-pinion D30 count on needing a set of adjustables.

Long-Arm suspensions move the mounting/pivoting points of the front axle farther back. This gives them a flatter operating angle that soaks up bumps more easily, and allows them to droop rather well.

Short arms at the same height would have a steep operating angle when sitting static, so they tend to transfer bumps up into the frame when driving. Additionally, since they are already drooped they tend not to move as well as a longer arm.

Drop Brackets are an incorporation of the two. While they still use short(ish) arms, the rear mount for those arms is approximately 4" lower than the stock points. This means the arms operate along a more horizontal plane again, so they can saok up bumps and flex.

I need to get pics up of the three one of these days.

You didn't say how much extra got added to your original $2500 cap.

The advantages of long arms are addressed above, long arms ride and flex better. I have the Rusty's 3 inch kit, which netted me about 4.5 inches of lift. It also made me really wish I'd spent the money on the T&T long arm kit, from all I have read it is well worth the 899 and also gives a lot of protection underneath. I would try to find a way to get it ( I am ) but I will be doing an SYE first. I plan on using a Mopar early B body 8 3/4 rear as I already own one, I will most likely use the T&T u bolt eliminator kit with my existing springs, should get me close to 6 inches. I am not as into it out of wanting to get rid of the ubolts as much because it addresses more than one need in one kit, brackets for new rear etc. The 8 3/4 is a somewhat overlooked option compared to the 8.8 ford, it is a non c-clip axle with good clearance and aftermarket support. For a daily driver I wouldn't even consider a D-60, too wide and what ground clearance you gain with the 33's you lose a bunch of it with the D-60 hanging lower. In your case you could shop around a bit for the front springs and consider building your own rear leaf packs to save a bit of cash, I see a few guys using Dakota or S-10 leaves with good results.

Everything I have read suggests that 33's with the stock 3.55 gears will be kind of a turd and will murder the gas mileage.

When I finally do my next step I plan on cheap steel 16 inch rims to replace the steel 15's i got before I did my homework-I really want the WJ front brakes at some point. Pretty much anything you do for $2500-$3000 is only a start, there is always a new weak point to be addressed-gearing, lockers, air and on and on. Just Empty Every Pocket definitely applies. Having that starting budget should let you get to a comfortable point that will allow you to still use it as a driver tho. Since you want/need to replace both axlesyou can at least get the new ones and still drive it while they are being re-geared and built.

 

[cjgill26]

Anyone else had problems with the 00-01 XJ's? I'm swapping out the low pinion axle the first chance I get so that's not an issue.

I've got a '00 Classic with 4 inch Teraflex front springs and 1.25" coil spring spacers, and I'm running the stock upper control arms and RE superflex adjustable LCA's on my LP D 30. I haven't had any front driveline issues to speak of.

 

[ponyracer1]

Well I went and ordered the RE5.5 short arm from PORC, thanks for all the advice and opinions from everyone. I'll let you know how it turns out.