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Wheel Bearing Stuck

Just put the brakes on, "temporarily bought" a 3/4" breaker from sears and used a 1 7/16" 3/4" drive 12pt socket (id much rather use 6 point but they didnt have any) and slid the pipe from a jack over that and then slid a preacher curl attachment to my bench press (dont know how to describe it) and had him stand on the brakes while i gave it my best and finally broke it loose. Does anyone know the torque specs for the caliper mounting bolts (the 2 half inch ones).
 
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175 lb. ft. for the axle nut
75 lb. ft. for the 12pt. hub bolts
15 lb. ft. for the caliper bolts

don't forget that these are "dry" torques.....if you use any lube on the threads of the bolts you should reduce the installation torque. Its actually easier if you coat the threads of the axle nut so that you don't have to crank 175 lb. ft. on it.

I think it is 5-90 who likes to say reduce the torque by HALF using anti-seize and a THIRD using oil/lube
 
Yeah i did it "dry". My beam style torque wrench only went to 75 ft lbs so I went to auto zone and rented one to finish the job, last time I just put 80 pounds on it a measure 2 feet away when the bar was horizontal and gave it a tiny push and called it 175ft lbs ;)
 
Sounds like same problem I had with my plow truck about a week or two ago(ram 2500 dana 60). Nut was completly frozen to axle. Required lot of heat and 3/4 impact to remove. 2 ft breaker bar should of been plenty of torque for a nut torqued to 175 lbs. I should of known something bad was going to happen. Rusted nut pulled threads off of axle shaft. Of course it was snowing already, needed truck to plow that night. No time/to late to find used parts. Stub shaft $200.00 from dealer,nut $15.00, u-joints $54.00 ea. really cut into my plowing money that night. On the bright side though, the pass. side that someone was smart enough to use never-sieze on, came apart no problem.
 
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