- Location
- Richardson, TX
Slapped in some fuel injectors in the Jeep. Nice weather to do so in.
-
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What was done to YOUR rig(XJ/MJ) today MECHANICALY????
- Thread starter ExTankerGuy
- Start date
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Forgot about that since I've never needed to before
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Located a second cause of the violent death wobble that nearly killed me Wed night. Turns out the new tire and old rim I robbed from the rolled jeep (2 weeks ago) that looks untouched by the accident is bent front the inside to the outside of the rim. I had swapped for a dry rotting front driver's side tire because it was new, less that 1000 miles on it. It is an old cast aluminum jeep rim with no marks on it that one can see from the outside, but on a spin balancer it has a 1/4" wobble as it spins on the outer rim. Must have taken a hit on the tire to the rim that did not damage the tire from the outside or the rim, that can be seen.
That plus no stabilizer shock/dampener (which many told me on
they have driven with out for years with out any problem) plus one bad lower control arm bushing seem to be what nearly did me in. 3X factor...
Going to replace all 4 tie rods while I am at it just to be save, and later the front shocks too. Got the steering dampener shock and lower control arm using amazon prime, delivered in 2 days and saved an easy $50. Got the tie rods at Autozone in stock for about $50 less than any where else. Go figure.
I think I have this one figured out and licked, I hope.
That plus no stabilizer shock/dampener (which many told me on
they have driven with out for years with out any problem) plus one bad lower control arm bushing seem to be what nearly did me in. 3X factor...Going to replace all 4 tie rods while I am at it just to be save, and later the front shocks too. Got the steering dampener shock and lower control arm using amazon prime, delivered in 2 days and saved an easy $50. Got the tie rods at Autozone in stock for about $50 less than any where else. Go figure.
I think I have this one figured out and licked, I hope.
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Thanks to Brady for coming by and helping me with the axle.. and pulling the rear bumper/tire carrier.
Gonna cut the LCA bolts tomorrow... anyone have a recommendation on where to buy new ones?
Gonna cut the LCA bolts tomorrow... anyone have a recommendation on where to buy new ones?
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Shocking (Shocks were not involved LMAO) how much a 6" tow-in can affect steering :scared: At 5 mph it was walking and dancing all over hells creation.
Seems I miss read my notes from the front tire measurement (Center of the front two tires) I made before replacing the tie rods. But I now suspect the tow-in was already way off (maybe set a t 3" of tow in???) before I added to the error. No way to know for sure now.
But I finally used the front and rear tire measurement with a tape measure to set it at exactly 1/8" of toe in (front to rear of the tires) and at 0-30 mph now it is a huge improvement. HUGE!!!!
One, I never realized how easy it was to get toe-in is so far off with out it looking obvious.
Still need to replace the lower driver's side control arm (1 bad bushing starting to disintegrate) and need to replace the steering dampener shock I pulled weeks ago when I discovered the rubber bushings on it were MIA!!!!! After only 29 years :smsoap:.
Then in about a week, the new front shocks should arrive.
Got the new tire from the rolled-totaled jeep onto a good, not bent rim today (spin balance went very well) and got it on the jeep working now. Will not test drive her over the 35 mph range till the new steering dampener and control arm arrive tomorrow and have been installed.
Greased the new tie rod ends before testing driving it at low speeds today.
I may have a strong health jeep on my hands again shortly.
Also I scored a sweet deal with the Autozone 1 day Cyber week 20 + 20 offer. Got 20% off plus a $20 AZ gift card, for an >$100 purchase, with FREE DELIVERY!!!!! Sweet!!!:roll:
Bought the 2 new front end shocks to complete the death wobble fix, front end parts swap, and I got 12 new push rods and 12 new lifters to go with the 12 new rockers, new pivots and new rocker arms headed my way by xjintx pony express with my used, reusable (we hope) Renix head I will have my local shop buddy work over.
All I will need to buy now is new head bolts. I hope the valves are still good enough to reuse on the head.
Then after 13 years of leaky valve seals and guides on cyls 1 and 2, I will have a nearly new head on the engine. She is at 290,000 miles already.
Seems I miss read my notes from the front tire measurement (Center of the front two tires) I made before replacing the tie rods. But I now suspect the tow-in was already way off (maybe set a t 3" of tow in???) before I added to the error. No way to know for sure now.
But I finally used the front and rear tire measurement with a tape measure to set it at exactly 1/8" of toe in (front to rear of the tires) and at 0-30 mph now it is a huge improvement. HUGE!!!!
One, I never realized how easy it was to get toe-in is so far off with out it looking obvious.
Still need to replace the lower driver's side control arm (1 bad bushing starting to disintegrate) and need to replace the steering dampener shock I pulled weeks ago when I discovered the rubber bushings on it were MIA!!!!! After only 29 years :smsoap:.
Then in about a week, the new front shocks should arrive.
Got the new tire from the rolled-totaled jeep onto a good, not bent rim today (spin balance went very well) and got it on the jeep working now. Will not test drive her over the 35 mph range till the new steering dampener and control arm arrive tomorrow and have been installed.
Greased the new tie rod ends before testing driving it at low speeds today.
I may have a strong health jeep on my hands again shortly.
Also I scored a sweet deal with the Autozone 1 day Cyber week 20 + 20 offer. Got 20% off plus a $20 AZ gift card, for an >$100 purchase, with FREE DELIVERY!!!!! Sweet!!!:roll:
Bought the 2 new front end shocks to complete the death wobble fix, front end parts swap, and I got 12 new push rods and 12 new lifters to go with the 12 new rockers, new pivots and new rocker arms headed my way by xjintx pony express with my used, reusable (we hope) Renix head I will have my local shop buddy work over.
All I will need to buy now is new head bolts. I hope the valves are still good enough to reuse on the head.
Then after 13 years of leaky valve seals and guides on cyls 1 and 2, I will have a nearly new head on the engine. She is at 290,000 miles already.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
New steering dampener got installed today, 3 short 35 mph max speed test drive trips with no issues. Maybe too much air pressure in the front tires, feels like the front floats a wee bit.
Could not get the drivers side control arm nuts loose on the 30 year old lower control arm. Still have one bad bushing on that side.
May need an impact wrench to get it off. Could saws-all them I guess but I have no spares.
Could not get the drivers side control arm nuts loose on the 30 year old lower control arm. Still have one bad bushing on that side.
May need an impact wrench to get it off. Could saws-all them I guess but I have no spares.
UncleSarge58
NAXJA Forum User
Ecomike,
Bolts will Probably Need to be Replaced if the Nuts are Froze On.
The Rear Nuts on my 96's LCAs only came off w/ a Healthy Drowning in PB Blaster & the help of a BF Air Impact Driver.
Then I found that the Bolts were Rust Welded to the Bushing Sleeves.
Tried an Air Hammer w/ a Punch Bit to Drive the Bolts Out. No Luck! Even w/ Lots of Soaking w/ PB Blaster & Heat from a Propane Torch!
Had to Cut them Out w/ a Grinder w/ Many Cut Off wheels & a SawzAll to Finish the last lil' bit. (Tough A$$ Stock Bolts)
Cut Off Wheels Are Much Better & Faster than a SawzAll to get the Cuts Started. Trust Me. Save the SawzAll for Last!
Replaced mine w/ 9/16 Grade 8 Bolts & Double Nylocks.
Got 'em on ebay for Cheap & Made in USA too!
Got the Washers & Extra Nylocks at Home Depot.
But, they Don't have Bolts Long enough.
Helps a Lot if you can Taper the Ends of the Threads on the Bolts (Like the Stock Bolts)
Makes it Easier to get them IN on ReInstallation.
A Lathe Would make it So Easy to Do. Sadly I don't have access to a Machine right now!
I just used a Hand Grinder & Lots of Patience! (Good thing I'm a Machinist. LOL)
Good Luck & my Prayers for you.
UncleSarge58
Bolts will Probably Need to be Replaced if the Nuts are Froze On.
The Rear Nuts on my 96's LCAs only came off w/ a Healthy Drowning in PB Blaster & the help of a BF Air Impact Driver.
Then I found that the Bolts were Rust Welded to the Bushing Sleeves.
Tried an Air Hammer w/ a Punch Bit to Drive the Bolts Out. No Luck! Even w/ Lots of Soaking w/ PB Blaster & Heat from a Propane Torch!
Had to Cut them Out w/ a Grinder w/ Many Cut Off wheels & a SawzAll to Finish the last lil' bit. (Tough A$$ Stock Bolts)
Cut Off Wheels Are Much Better & Faster than a SawzAll to get the Cuts Started. Trust Me. Save the SawzAll for Last!
Replaced mine w/ 9/16 Grade 8 Bolts & Double Nylocks.
Got 'em on ebay for Cheap & Made in USA too!
Got the Washers & Extra Nylocks at Home Depot.
But, they Don't have Bolts Long enough.
Helps a Lot if you can Taper the Ends of the Threads on the Bolts (Like the Stock Bolts)
Makes it Easier to get them IN on ReInstallation.
A Lathe Would make it So Easy to Do. Sadly I don't have access to a Machine right now!
I just used a Hand Grinder & Lots of Patience! (Good thing I'm a Machinist. LOL)
Good Luck & my Prayers for you.
UncleSarge58
Last edited:
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Where did you get the replacement bolts? Got a bolt spec? Length? Got an ebay link?
I had no problem doing this 4 years ago on the 89 Cherokee (may she RIP
)
when my daughter bent the lower driver's side arm like a pretzel in a curb (?) encounter. Had to sawsall the arm first, then the bolts were easy.
I had no problem doing this 4 years ago on the 89 Cherokee (may she RIP
)when my daughter bent the lower driver's side arm like a pretzel in a curb (?) encounter. Had to sawsall the arm first, then the bolts were easy.
iluv83vettes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Houston
You could prolly get them from the dealer.
I installed a new radio in my jeep for my dad to use at the deer lease. I also installed a light bar that has been sitting on my shelf for quite a while and wired up my switch panel and fuse/relay box that I've had for multiple years. While I was doing all the wiring I stripped the interior and vacuumed out the inside which also hasn't been done in probably three years.
Maybe I should have done that a while ago.
Also I got the stock hitch and bumper put on from John.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I installed a new radio in my jeep for my dad to use at the deer lease. I also installed a light bar that has been sitting on my shelf for quite a while and wired up my switch panel and fuse/relay box that I've had for multiple years. While I was doing all the wiring I stripped the interior and vacuumed out the inside which also hasn't been done in probably three years.
Maybe I should have done that a while ago.
Also I got the stock hitch and bumper put on from John.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
chemsolder
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Texas
Love the noises...got a sqeak sqeak sqeak at low speeds in a turn more so on the left turn than right but there on both. Only does it under 15mph....hub?ujoints? Anything else to check? clearly from the front. Also where the heck does the did vent tube in the front usually route? I pulled it off the place it was and duct taped it out of the way in the woods. Guess we aren't supposed to run over small trees, who would've thought they'd hurt anything...
iluv83vettes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Houston
I would check u-joints first for the squeak.
As far as the vent tube goes, you can route it however you want so long as it is away from rotating things and hot thing (driveshaft and exhaust). If you are talking about the front, mine is zip tied to the upper control arm and continues up the firewall ending near the brake booster. The rear originally goes into the frame, but I ran a new line to the front and it ends right next to the front tube.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As far as the vent tube goes, you can route it however you want so long as it is away from rotating things and hot thing (driveshaft and exhaust). If you are talking about the front, mine is zip tied to the upper control arm and continues up the firewall ending near the brake booster. The rear originally goes into the frame, but I ran a new line to the front and it ends right next to the front tube.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
My Dr friend got his new to him $4000 lifted jeep stuck on a tree trunk at his ranch. Then it caught fire and burned up.
My squeak was the swap bar bushing-clamp.
My squeak was the swap bar bushing-clamp.
- Location
- Houston, Tx
Finally got the old one out and the new axle in position
The uca bolts supplied by TNT for their bushings are too big for the holes in the uca's... and the stock bolts have too much play in the bushings. Drilling out the uca's seems like the solution but not sure it's a good idea
iluv83vettes
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Houston
Either drill them out, buy different uppers, or different sleeves for the axle bushings.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
chemsolder
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Texas
Probably definitely the ujoint. May replace the hub too since it has to come off anyway. At 240k probably prudent anyway...
Islander I think I have axle envy now.
Islander I think I have axle envy now.
Last edited:
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
That all looks so new and nice, too nice to put on the road and get it dirty LOL. Too nice to be a real jeep, LOL.
I'm avoiding the rain and cold right now. My new shocks, and lifters, push rods arrived, Look good. Not sure what to do about trying to get the lower control arm bolts out on the drivers side to replace the one with the bad bushing. My be impact wrench time. Or????? Not sure where to buy replacement bolts, just been reading horror stories about trying to get bad ones out (seized bolts on the CA bushings). Mine are only 30 years old. At least they are not rusted. But a cheater pipe did not cut it for leverage I am told. Need to try PB blaster for 2-3 days I guess once the rain and cold stops.
I'm avoiding the rain and cold right now. My new shocks, and lifters, push rods arrived, Look good. Not sure what to do about trying to get the lower control arm bolts out on the drivers side to replace the one with the bad bushing. My be impact wrench time. Or????? Not sure where to buy replacement bolts, just been reading horror stories about trying to get bad ones out (seized bolts on the CA bushings). Mine are only 30 years old. At least they are not rusted. But a cheater pipe did not cut it for leverage I am told. Need to try PB blaster for 2-3 days I guess once the rain and cold stops.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Found out earlier this week that my drivers side steering knuckle is still good on the brake pad rail guides. In fact they look un-abused which is shocking for 290,000 miles, while the drivers side is going to need to be welded and built up and ground back to proper size or replaced :bawl:which I am in no way looking forward to. Or I need to find tighter fitting brake pads, which I doubt exist.
I have a new wire welder, not real welding experience and am afraid of just dorking up the brake pad guide rails with poor welds. I know it can be done, has been done by others. Just need to find a local welder with serious experience. But it might be cheaper to just to replace the knuckle??? If I can find a real good used one cheap? I think it needs to be an 87-90 knuckle only, maybe a 4wd only as well from a D-30. I have seen new ones for $130 to over $200 online for just the dang knuckle.
I have a new wire welder, not real welding experience and am afraid of just dorking up the brake pad guide rails with poor welds. I know it can be done, has been done by others. Just need to find a local welder with serious experience. But it might be cheaper to just to replace the knuckle??? If I can find a real good used one cheap? I think it needs to be an 87-90 knuckle only, maybe a 4wd only as well from a D-30. I have seen new ones for $130 to over $200 online for just the dang knuckle.
UncleSarge58
NAXJA Forum User
What Did I Do For My Jeep Today?
Nothing Mechanical.
Just Drove 40 Miles (One Way & Back) to Pick Up some 14GA Steel Diamond Floor Plate for the Rear Deck of my 96 XJ 2Dr & some 16GA Aluminum Diamond Plate for the Back of the Rear Seat.
Gonna Paint 'em Both w/ 3 Coats Iron Armor Bedliner, after Install.
Have some Rust Issues in the Back Cargo Floor Area.
(Jeep Was a Beach Vehicle for 5 1/2 Yrs!)
Gonna Pull the Carpet & Pad & Cut Out Bad Areas of the Rear Deck.
Then I'll Cut the Steel Floor Plate to Fit & Tech Screw it in Place.
Next it's Off to my Local 4WD Shop & have the Tank Dropped & Welded in from below.
Should Stiffen up the Rear of the Ol' Jeep & Look pretty Cool Too!
As 4 the Seat Back,... I Pulled the Rear Seat Bottom Years ago.
(Needed the Storage Space for Tool Boxes)
Gonna Pull the Carpet & Upholstery Off & Convert it Into a locking Gun Box, Using the Seat Back as the Lid.
Will Cover the Seat Back & New Plywood front w/ the Alum Diamond Plate.
Also will be Calling & Scheduling the Front Floor Pans to be Replaced.
Already Have 2 Sets of Pans. (Full Length & Front R & L)
Also Have 4 ft each: 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" 14GA Box Tube & 2 1/2" 14GA Flat Bar.
(Just In Case The Seat Mounts Need to be Cut Out)
Found a Place Locally to do the Welding. (At a Very Decent Price Too!)
They will also be Installing my Rock Rails (2X4X1/8") that I already have Pre-Cut.
If we get a Break in the Rain, I may Install my New Adj. Track Bar, Tomorrow!
So Much to Do & So Little Time!
UncleSarge58
JEEP=
Just
Empty
Every
Pocket
Nothing Mechanical.
Just Drove 40 Miles (One Way & Back) to Pick Up some 14GA Steel Diamond Floor Plate for the Rear Deck of my 96 XJ 2Dr & some 16GA Aluminum Diamond Plate for the Back of the Rear Seat.
Gonna Paint 'em Both w/ 3 Coats Iron Armor Bedliner, after Install.
Have some Rust Issues in the Back Cargo Floor Area.
(Jeep Was a Beach Vehicle for 5 1/2 Yrs!)
Gonna Pull the Carpet & Pad & Cut Out Bad Areas of the Rear Deck.
Then I'll Cut the Steel Floor Plate to Fit & Tech Screw it in Place.
Next it's Off to my Local 4WD Shop & have the Tank Dropped & Welded in from below.
Should Stiffen up the Rear of the Ol' Jeep & Look pretty Cool Too!
As 4 the Seat Back,... I Pulled the Rear Seat Bottom Years ago.
(Needed the Storage Space for Tool Boxes)
Gonna Pull the Carpet & Upholstery Off & Convert it Into a locking Gun Box, Using the Seat Back as the Lid.
Will Cover the Seat Back & New Plywood front w/ the Alum Diamond Plate.
Also will be Calling & Scheduling the Front Floor Pans to be Replaced.
Already Have 2 Sets of Pans. (Full Length & Front R & L)
Also Have 4 ft each: 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" 14GA Box Tube & 2 1/2" 14GA Flat Bar.
(Just In Case The Seat Mounts Need to be Cut Out)
Found a Place Locally to do the Welding. (At a Very Decent Price Too!)
They will also be Installing my Rock Rails (2X4X1/8") that I already have Pre-Cut.
If we get a Break in the Rain, I may Install my New Adj. Track Bar, Tomorrow!
So Much to Do & So Little Time!
UncleSarge58
JEEP=
Just
Empty
Every
Last edited:
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
This is awesome folks!!!!! Going to try it on my seized control arm bolts when the rain stops ...
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=ba2_1475277076
How to easily remove rusted-seized nits off of bolts!!!!
All you need is a wax candle and a lighter. party1:
http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=ba2_1475277076
How to easily remove rusted-seized nits off of bolts!!!!
All you need is a wax candle and a lighter. party1:
lawagoneer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fordoche, LA
Let us know how it works. I'm skeptical as it takes time to heat up the lugs and nuts enough to melt the paraffin and wick it into the joint. I'm not saying it won't work I just don't believe it is as quick and easy as it appeared in the video. Prove me wrong and him right I'll happily eat crow.
