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Weekend is over...what did you get done?

I did. I exploded a ujoint in the MJ trying to get my tow rig unstuck.

I also rolled a 5hp mini lawn tractor coming up the hill out of my yard. Had to put one foot on the steering wheel to keep it from landing on me.
 
Sure you can. It'd be like any other bed. The inside of the bed is steel... It has to be...

The bed is a replacement canadian fiberglass bed. The entire thing is fiberglass not just the sides. But I looked up line-x and they said they can spray it on the bed.

Im curious what you paid for that thing... when I was in the Toyota world, a truck of that vintage would bring TOP dollar, and usually were nowhere near that good of shape. That looks like a killer little ride.

Doug, ill post finished pictures sometime today. The underside is still 'whole' i didnt cut through any of the cross members, just through the skin. Prying the skin away from that thick epoxy they use was one of the hardest parts so far...

I think I got a pretty good deal on it to be honest. I paid $5000 for it, but like I said it drives like it was almost brand new. The guy I bought it from is a yota guru and is retiring. He owns 5 of these.
 
Yeah, 5 grand for it aint bad. Ive seen them go that and then some for worse shape.

Andy, I broke my 231 transfercase in half pulling into my driveway in Germany....thats why I now have a 241OR in it.
 
Got the gas tank out and emptied. Why in the name of all that is Holy did they not put an access panel in the rear cargo area to get to the fuel pump? That was a pain in the hiney to get the tank dropped. naturally the pump dies the day I fill up. Now to modify the thing to do away with the electric pump, get a new fuel gauge/sending unit and I'll be set.
 
The sender is in the front of the gas tank on earlier models and you don't have to drop the tank... :) You can swap a pump and sender in 20 minutes (15 minutes of clean up time)
 
The sender is in the front of the gas tank on earlier models and you don't have to drop the tank... :) You can swap a pump and sender in 20 minutes (15 minutes of clean up time)
only on 96 and earlier. 97 and later, it's on the top of the tank... and held in with this goofy plastic lock-ring that usually seizes to the neoprene gasket under it and has to be cut off.
 
I'd find a 96 tank and swap it in if it would fit! LOL!
 
It will, but the pump / sender assembly is unobtainium and the fuel gauge will not work properly. I did the swap going the other way on my 96 when its tank and sender rusted out and I couldn't find the sender new for anything under 500 bucks.
 
only on 96 and earlier. 97 and later, it's on the top of the tank... and held in with this goofy plastic lock-ring that usually seizes to the neoprene gasket under it and has to be cut off.


That's why I said "earlier models" ;)

I had to replace the sender in my wifes 98. It was a biotch! The "J" bolts were rusted to shit and had to be cut off. Then the dealer wanted 28 bucks PER bolt. I made some with Grade 49 all-thread and the remaining ends of the rusted bolts... Redneck engineering at it's finest!
 
doh. how did I miss that?

If you ever need to drop a gas tank again, the bolts are J3240023 and available cheap online (used to be available for 2 bucks each, but that company seems to have gone out of business.) http://www.conversionradiators.com/servlet/the-26889/Omix-dsh-ada-BOLT-GAS-TANK/Detail

They don't work on MJs but they do work on all years of XJ. 3/8-16 thread, so use nylock nuts and washers of your choice from the hardware store.
 
The sender is in the front of the gas tank on earlier models and you don't have to drop the tank... :) You can swap a pump and sender in 20 minutes (15 minutes of clean up time)


Yeah I didn't have these issues on my 91, but the 97 is a pain for this. Had to use a hammer and screwdriver to get that plastic ring off. I am debating the access panel in the floor, but since I won't be using an in-tank pump anymore it shouldn't be needed.

I thought about trying to just mod what was in place, but that's not going to work. I am thinking about just tossing everything, cutting a piece of aluminum to go where the old pump/sender assembly was, get a universal sending unit and gauge. Then just add a fitting with a tube and pickup sock. Two problems solved at once.
 
I'd keep all stock parts, just put a tube in instead of the actual pump in the assembly and pull the wiring for the pump so it doesn't short out (assuming the fuel pump relay is still present.)
 
Rode in a factory 5 cobra...............
2012-03-25_14-57-36_489.jpg


Also rode with the guy in the picture who is walking toward his 04 STI. He isn't even 21 yet and he is one of the fastest guys out there, only car faster than him was a Solstice GXP with 315whp.
 
Why are you getting away from the stock pump? I picked up an el cheapo off ebay for 180 and it's been good for a year so far.

This thing has a Chevy 350/700R4 in it with a carb. Going to use the mechanical fuel pump.


I'd keep all stock parts, just put a tube in instead of the actual pump in the assembly and pull the wiring for the pump so it doesn't short out (assuming the fuel pump relay is still present.)

That was going to be my plan, but the giant check valve or whatever requires a high pressure to move fuel through it so I have to ditch the whole thing and make my own. Ordered a digital fuel gauge and a universal sending unit to install while the whole thing's out. Going to also get a digital speedometer to match and a GPS sending unit which will not be bothered by gearing or tire size.
 
oh yeah that thing. That's the combined check valve and fuel pressure regulator, it takes like 45 or 50psi to move through it as you already said.
 
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