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Upgrade d30 help

Ditto on the RCV's. I already bought a set, but want to figure out which locker I want in the front so I can install them both at once.

Oh, and from what I hear over on pirate, getting your R&P heat treated and micropolished will increase the strength of it dramatically. This is what I plan on doing to prevent breakage I hear about from stronger shafts.

care to elaborate on this? or give links to pirate? is this talking about nitriding or carbo-nitriding? because i can guarantee that all ring and pinions are already heat treated to a manufacturers specifications.
 
Forget sleeving the thing! Cut everything off and weld on all new TnT stuff: Truss, Springpads/Shock mounts and lower control mounts. Then do a WJ conversion. Slap your OX in w/ some Cromo's(30spline) and you are good!
 
The real advantage to the Longfields is that they are as strong at full steering lock as they are pointed straight. The second advantage is if they do break they will not take the inner "C" out, or a ball joint, leaving you stranded on the trail. I can limp home without the R&P but if a "C" is bent or snapped I'm going no where.

The problem is the majority of people don't know how to setup gears so it's cheaper for them to blow out ball joints (which doesn't happen everytime if you stop immediately).

I wouldn't run those shafts on D30 period. For the amount of money/time it would take to make the rest of the axle hold up to them, you could build a D44 and buy the RCVs for that and have a much stronger axle since they come with 30-spline stubs.
 
care to elaborate on this? or give links to pirate? is this talking about nitriding or carbo-nitriding? because i can guarantee that all ring and pinions are already heat treated to a manufacturers specifications.

Can't find the threads now for some reason. It was some process, I know they were treated somehow and then polished. Made them very shiny and very hard.
 
they cryo gears. longfield does it for 45 bucks or something like that

That's the ticket. Cold, hot, whatever. Not like I'm a mechanical engineer that should know that stuff... :eyes:


But yeah, I'm gonna look into that, they say nobody has broken a R&P after they've treated them.
 
Aftermarket axles are wasted without full circle clips. C-clip on the left, full circle clip on the right:

Cclip2.jpg


When the axle breaks most the time it is at the ears. The c-clip fails, and the cap flys out, then the ears streach or break, end of the axle. Full circle clips will save your aftermarket axles. You can't run full circle clips on stock axles with out work.


AxleBreak.jpg


Get some Ten factory axles and CTM's with full cricle clips.
http://www.tenfactory.com/
http://www.ctmracing.com/
Get them from:
http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com/
 
I wouldn't run those shafts on D30 period. For the amount of money/time it would take to make the rest of the axle hold up to them, you could build a D44 and buy the RCVs for that and have a much stronger axle since they come with 30-spline stubs.

I didn't pay that price for mine, Bobby was easy on me. I got set #1 as far as I know and had to send them back because the splines were cut wrong on the inners, no big deal Bobby took care of that quickly. I realize I could have built a D-44 but I dare to be different.

My biggest concern right now is the stock carrier. I think I should have gone full case, I guess I will find out the hard way if it will hold up or not.
 
yea there is a few choices i need to make but i want to make it strong locked with 4.56 gears and no worrys. let us know how that truss turns out for u.

He seems to be pretty interested in making one, not hard to do with the style truss he makes. And with the amount of Wrangler stuff he produces, it would be a good addition to the line up he already has. I need to shoot him another PM about UCA brackets though.
 
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