Ughh! Converting to the open cooling system

[Bryan C.]

In response to the electric cooling fan problem. I did the same conversion on my friends(now mine) 87 XJ. Here's a link and the part numbers I used for the fan conversion.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17466

 

[BIGSLVRXJ]

In response to the electric cooling fan problem. I did the same conversion on my friends(now mine) 87 XJ. Here's a link and the part numbers I used for the fan conversion.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17466

Thanks Bryan thats very helpful, nice job on the P/N also, gonna be very helpful for hoses.

 

[XJade]

This write-up mentions a Corvette switch with TWO wires rather than one. Perhaps the relay can be avoided using this 215-degree switch

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Cooling/Electric_Fan_Generic_Thermostat.htm

Part numbers:
TFS19 (Borg Warner)
DR137XL (Niehoff)

I think I'm gonna try this switch. About a year or two ago the cost prevented me from doing the install. Damn switch was $40-50. Looks like it has drastically dropped in price.

 

[BIGSLVRXJ]

Hey for those that have done this will you post where you mounted the overflow bottle. I've got one of the mopar ones that they used in newer XJs and cannot find anywhere in the engine bay for it. There are too many vacuum lines and stuff below where the old one was to mount it there.

 

[langer1]

Looks dumb but.

 

[BIGSLVRXJ]

Looks dumb but.

Yeah I think thats what mine is going to end up looking like, thanks.

 

[5-90]

This write-up mentions a Corvette switch with TWO wires rather than one. Perhaps the relay can be avoided using this 215-degree switch

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Cooling/Electric_Fan_Generic_Thermostat.htm

Part numbers:
TFS19 (Borg Warner)
DR137XL (Niehoff)

I think I'm gonna try this switch. About a year or two ago the cost prevented me from doing the install. Damn switch was $40-50. Looks like it has drastically dropped in price.

Two points:
1) A one-wire switch will be self-grounding, with the other side of the circuit being the chassis ground return - nothing wrong with that.

2) DO NOT use the switch to turn the fan on and off - use the switch to turn a RELAY on and off. The engineers used a relay for both safety (taking the load off the switch) and efficiency (making the power path to the fan shorter.) Learn from them. Engineering decisions are usually good - it's the accounting and legal decisions that I generally hold suspect...

5-90

 

[BIGSLVRXJ]

Two points:
1) A one-wire switch will be self-grounding, with the other side of the circuit being the chassis ground return - nothing wrong with that.

2) DO NOT use the switch to turn the fan on and off - use the switch to turn a RELAY on and off. The engineers used a relay for both safety (taking the load off the switch) and efficiency (making the power path to the fan shorter.) Learn from them. Engineering decisions are usually good - it's the accounting and legal decisions that I generally hold suspect...

5-90

Haha i didnt even end up having to do that. The one I bought at Oreillys had the hole for it it was just plugged with a plastic plug. Bolt n play.

 

[tugalo]

go and get a bottle from a Mopar sedan.....it is flatter and will fit right where your old one is, just remove the old bottle and its mounting bracket, drill two holes in the shelf and bolt in the new bottle.........viola !!

 

[BIGSLVRXJ]

go and get a bottle from a Mopar sedan.....it is flatter and will fit right where your old one is, just remove the old bottle and its mounting bracket, drill two holes in the shelf and bolt in the new bottle.........viola !!

By Mopar Sedan you mean like....a dodge product, something like a stratus?

 

[Running-Snail]

I did the same thing as tugalo. Not sure what I took it out of - older than a stratus. Think I read somewhere to use a 13# pressure cap.

It has worked GREAT! I highly recommend as an alternative to converting to open system.

I eventually replaced the radiator with a Modine. Dealer provided thermostat.

 

[BIGSLVRXJ]

I did the same thing as tugalo. Not sure what I took it out of - older than a stratus. Think I read somewhere to use a 13# pressure cap.

It has worked GREAT! I highly recommend as an alternative to converting to open system.

I eventually replaced the radiator with a Modine. Dealer provided thermostat.

Oh, I've already converted I'm looking for a bottle to use with the open system.

 

[WesternXJ]

I bought mine at Kragens/Schucks/Checker. Universal and had a mounting bracket that I bent to fit where the old 'burp' bottle went.

 

[tugalo]

I'm not sure if my bottle came from a Stratus or a LeBaron, but it was something along those lines. When you are cruising the junkyard and see one, you will notice right away that it has a flat top and a regular radiator cap
which eliminates the screw-on OEM cap....the bottles also have a regular over-flow hose to vent pressure.....
The new bottles are mounted in the same place on the firewall that your Jeep
football is mounted.

 

[XJade]

Two points:
1) A one-wire switch will be self-grounding, with the other side of the circuit being the chassis ground return - nothing wrong with that.

2) DO NOT use the switch to turn the fan on and off - use the switch to turn a RELAY on and off. The engineers used a relay for both safety (taking the load off the switch) and efficiency (making the power path to the fan shorter.) Learn from them. Engineering decisions are usually good - it's the accounting and legal decisions that I generally hold suspect...

5-90

I purchased the switch recently and do plan to wire it like the original through the relay.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

The universal coolant recovery bottle kit that AutoZone, Advance, etc sells is perfect to use in the XJ. About $10.

 

[Tom_W]

my wife's 88 xj (with the bad cylinder) still has the closed system, and I have only had to change the bottle and cap once, and it is still the original radiator, with 165K+ miles on it. I did have to change two water pumps in the past two yrs though, but then again I went thru two of them in two yrs on my 86 with a 4 banger in it, oh and that is still the same radiator (open system though)
As for the expensive hoses, go to your local napa dealer and you can get regular radiator hose and adapters (1/2 to 5/8 if I remember , but it has been several yrs) and do away with the molded hoses

 

[BIGSLVRXJ]

As for the expensive hoses, go to your local napa dealer and you can get regular radiator hose and adapters (1/2 to 5/8 if I remember , but it has been several yrs) and do away with the molded hoses

Not a big fan of that theory but to each their own I guess. I just don't think having plastic pieces that cost $3 clamped together is a good idea. I tried to cobble the old system together with elbows and such and sprung up leaks everywhere. Just my $.02 though.

 

[Tom_W]

spring a few cents more for the brass ones, I dont like hose clamps on plastic either, for some reason I always tend to over-tighten them and break them

 

[5-90]

Not a big fan of that theory but to each their own I guess. I just don't think having plastic pieces that cost $3 clamped together is a good idea. I tried to cobble the old system together with elbows and such and sprung up leaks everywhere. Just my $.02 though.

I did away with the moulded hoses - I now need about a foot and a half of straight hose to service the heater. The rest is made of sweat-soldered copper line, and it's made it through a California summer and a month of sitting (I was recuperating,) without leakage. I've just started driving again, and I haven't noticed any leaks yet - I haven't notice ANY leaks so far! Not bad - I must have done something right last time...

I haven't yet "revised the system for release" yet, but if you want to know more, click the link in my sig, go to "Works in Progress by Works in Progress," and scroll down. Click the pic for a full-size version. It's not got a lot of detail to it (it's not a production pic,) but I could be encouraged to take more if asked VERY nicely...

5-90