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U bolt eliminators

Stumpalump said:
You add lift in the worst possible way.
I have RE 3.5" leafs + 1.5" boomerang shackles and I want to gain a little bit more lift to clear 35's. I was gonna get some taller leafs until I heard about these. They will allow me to keep my 3.5" leafs which flex better then taller/stiffer leafs.

TnT would not make a inferior product. The End
 
uncc civilengineer said:
I agree... all this talk about bad welds.. I mean come on it's not rocket science and you have plenty of area to burn in.. If you're not comfortable welding on a UBE (or having someone do it) please just stick to bolt on parts...

I mean welding on a UBE is pretty hard to screw up :confused1

I can weld just fine, thanks.. and these won't be welded on anything of mine.
 
JJacobs said:
I can weld just fine, thanks.. and these won't be welded on anything of mine.

Ok, but care to elaborate why? I think you have a lot more risk running a shim or block and the rear axle sliding compared to the UBE actually separating from the tube.

I mean unless you have some paper thin tubes or only attached at one point or so it really shouldn't ever go anywhere... I've beat on mine and not even a hair line crack in any weld... My cousin's on 60's w/ 39.5's and the same results...

To me the TNT kit is perfectly safe if installed correctly and a great way to gain more flex from a flatter leaf pack...
 
JJacobs said:
I can weld just fine, thanks.. and these won't be welded on anything of mine.
I agree with JJacobs.

My flame suit is on, but I'll keep my AAL's with 1.5" blocks and U-Bolts.

I have NEVER had an issue with lift blocks in my 20+ years of wheelin', -but maybe that's because I routinely torque undercarriage hardware.

For the guys that fear the lift block, the talk about fabbing raised spring perches is something I've seen and done for years. One other thing that comes to mind is adding spacers, -either short pieces of spring leafs, -or flatbar for that matter (to the bottom of the spring pack), and holding it all together with the spring bolt, -can't go wrong with that.

The argument about spring wrap is a good one, but as long as the axle centerline is "X" distance away from the spring pack, -it doesn't matter what you have in between there filling the gap, -distance is distance. I understand the UBE's have a larger "pad", but I once used a half leaf on my chevy and bolted it into the pack, -I put the long side forward, -and it worked great at acting like a pseudo-traction-bar, -and didn't inhibit flex.

There are tons of different ways to do it without the need for UBE's (in my opinion).
 
jrowell said:
Your relying on the weld on a stock spring perch... what's the difference?

Um, no. You're relying on the u-bolts wrapped around the axle tube to clamp the springs down to the perches. This is how the factory engineers designed the system, and u-bolts are pretty reliable in my years of leaf-spring wheeling experience.

Not to bash the eliminator guys, but you're relying on the integrity of the welded plates to hold the spring to the axle tube. If the welds are quality, it should be fine. But IMO the u-bolts are more fail-safe by design.
 
I personally think something else would break on your rear end before welds break on UBEs. If they are welded on properly, the weld won't be the weakest link of the setup....

Regardless, if you're doing something to where you bust BOTH perch welds, and you're counting on your u-bolts to keep your axle under your rig, you should be using more to reinforce your rear axle. I think your u-bolts or the bolts on the UBE would break before perch welds....Plus, plenty of people have non-stock rear ends on their XJs, in which they had to have new perches welded on....

As for the axle wrap issue....UBEs are wider and longer, you have less of a chance with axle wrap using them than you would with stock perches and/or blocks.
 
Oh ya, and I second the idea of someone who's actually run these speaking up and having something bad to say about them....still waiting for that!
 
fubar XJ said:
Um, no. You're relying on the u-bolts wrapped around the axle tube to clamp the springs down to the perches. This is how the factory engineers designed the system, and u-bolts are pretty reliable in my years of leaf-spring wheeling experience.

Not to bash the eliminator guys, but you're relying on the integrity of the welded plates to hold the spring to the axle tube. If the welds are quality, it should be fine. But IMO the u-bolts are more fail-safe by design.

I get your point. I'm not saying UBE are stronger than U-bolts, or vise versa. But I am saying there is no way these damn things are coming off unless I take a plasma torch to them! If your are or know a competent welder, the argument of braking the welds is just flat lame. UBE's are a viable and SAFE way to gain a little lift.
 
mjma said:
yes, you can add them later, it's just more of a pita.

I have a set that I'm not using if anyone wants, pm me.

Sorry for the confusion, I have an extra set of 1" UBEs laying around, not stiffeneres. AGain, sorry for the confusion, my bad.
 
Stumpalump said:
I stiil don't buy it. You add lift in the worst possible way to increase axel wrap and if you weld them on how would you have an adjustable pinion angle? Bad plan on an XJ I think.

Its the same concept as if you have the stock leaf perches. You weld the UBEs on at the angle you need and if you go bigger, then add the shims like any other setup. I would say that if you needed to rotate the pinion via leaf perches, its not a bad idea but I definitely wouldnt buy these just to eliminate u bolts.
 
i am running a finalized set up with an xj 44 in the rear so i know i am not upgrading - therfore the will be welded at the same angle i am running now which i have been using for the last 5 years... so in my case they knock out two birds with one stone
 
djblade311 said:
Its the same concept as if you have the stock leaf perches. You weld the UBEs on at the angle you need and if you go bigger, then add the shims like any other setup. I would say that if you needed to rotate the pinion via leaf perches, its not a bad idea but I definitely wouldnt buy these just to eliminate u bolts.

The elimination of the u-bolts is not even the big factor (at least not for me)
Here are my reasons for getting them.

1 - I need to gain 1-1/2" more to better clear 35's
2 - UBE's allow me to keep my 3.5" leafs which provide better flex as compared to taller/arched leafs.
3 - While swapping a D44 into my rig I snapped the drivers side shock mount off. The TnT UBE's come with new shock mounts.
4 - I can set my pinion angle without shims.
5 - Thay double as bump stop pads
6 - And finally... Why not? My freind runs a shop where he builds custom trucks and through him I have acess to a welder, tools, and a nice warm shop. I am a very decent welder and weak welds will not even be an issue for me.
 
bobnoxious said:
They fit like crap on anything but an 8.8 rear end.

Ok your a idiot!

On a 8.8 they fit like crap! You have to notch the corner to get they to clear the Ebrake cable!

On my 14bolt and the last D44 I did them on, they fit without mod!

:twak:

I Would never recommend Not doing these. Only draw back is the cost.
 
rosco said:
The elimination of the u-bolts is not even the big factor (at least not for me)
Here are my reasons for getting them.

1 - I need to gain 1-1/2" more to better clear 35's
2 - UBE's allow me to keep my 3.5" leafs which provide better flex as compared to taller/arched leafs.
3 - While swapping a D44 into my rig I snapped the drivers side shock mount off. The TnT UBE's come with new shock mounts.
4 - I can set my pinion angle without shims.
5 - Thay double as bump stop pads
6 - And finally... Why not? My freind runs a shop where he builds custom trucks and through him I have acess to a welder, tools, and a nice warm shop. I am a very decent welder and weak welds will not even be an issue for me.

Rosco, are you going to run a ladder bar with the 1.5" ube lift?
 
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