U bolt eliminators

[cloudswimmer]

WOW!



There are better ways to gain lift.

I agree, blocks and ladder bar

 

[needsrepair]

TNT's have three holes for the centering pin. Stock location or 1/2 in back or flip the ube before welding and you can choose the 3rd hole to move the axle back 1 inch. Have it welded if you cant or dont have the equipment. No big deal. I had my gears and locker set up after welding so they could check axle tube straightness.

 

[Dan Fredrickson]

TNT's have three holes for the centering pin. Stock location or 1/2 in back or flip the ube before welding and you can choose the 3rd hole to move the axle back 1 inch. Have it welded if you cant or dont have the equipment. No big deal. I had my gears and locker set up after welding so they could check axle tube straightness.

When you weld them it ends, The adjustment Is for the pinion angle, after you have chosen your axle location front to rear. You would only need the secondary holes if you changed to an odd sized leaf or were experimenting with axle location.

And that way you can avoid shims entirely.

And if you must use blocks you should allways use a wrap bar, you will enjoy the difference.

 

[needsrepair]

When you weld them it ends, The adjustment Is for the pinion angle, after you have chosen your axle location front to rear. You would only need the secondary holes if you changed to an odd sized leaf or were experimenting with axle location.

And that way you can avoid shims entirely.

And if you must use blocks you should allways use a wrap bar, you will enjoy the difference.

No, the 3 holes allow for axle placement. It can be welded on 2 different ways. I set it up in the center hole. Like you say, the pinion angle is set when you weld it. You have to decide when it being installed. Its not practical to cut it all off. I see tnt offers three different heights. The way I put mine on, it can now be loosened up and move the centering pin into the hole thats 1/2 in away from the center hole and the axle will move back 1/2 an inch. If I had flipped the bracket 180 degrees it would allow me to go from centered to moving the axle back 1 inch. It wont change the pinion angle much at all. I will check it when I move mine back. In the tnt link you can see the top plate. It has 3 holes along the center for the centering bolt. 4 other holes near the corners for the clamping bolts.
http://www.tntcustoms.com/webV5/ubolteliminators.asp

 

[Dan Fredrickson]

No, the 3 holes allow for axle placement. It can be welded on 2 different ways. I set it up in the center hole. Like you say, the pinion angle is set when you weld it. You have to decide when it being installed. Its not practical to cut it all off. I see tnt offers three different heights. The way I put mine on, it can now be loosened up and move the centering pin into the hole thats 1/2 in away from the center hole and the axle will move back 1/2 an inch. If I had flipped the bracket 180 degrees it would allow me to go from centered to moving the axle back 1 inch. It wont change the pinion angle much at all. I will check it when I move mine back. In the tnt link you can see the top plate. It has 3 holes along the center for the centering bolt. 4 other holes near the corners for the clamping bolts.
http://www.tntcustoms.com/webV5/ubolteliminators.asp

I'm pretty sure thats just what I said.....

 

[gorman]

I'm doing my rear axle swop and ended up not having a choice but to go for U bolt eliminators.

As can be seen in the pic below, the axle ends have a larger diameter to accommodate ABS tone rings. Seeing that the axle I'm using is also a little narrower than the stock XJ axle the spring perces would have mounted flush against the larger diameter portion of the axle and thus I wouldn't have been able to get a U bolt around it on the outer side.

I've decided to get around the problem by not using U bolts and making my own spring perches. The spring perches started out as s chunk of 6mm plate I had bent into a U shape - the upper surface has a dimension of 150mm (L) x 125mm (W).

Measuring carefully I marked and cut out the circular shapes in order for the one leg to mount on the larger diameter portion of the axle and the other leg on the tube. Still need to do the centre support section to support the spring perch directly under the leaf spring mounting area.

I didn't want to mount the spring perces too high as I'm not really into gaining any lift in this area (already sitting on 5.5" of lift and very happy with the existing ride and flex). In the end they ended up sitting about 20mm above tha axle tube, which is only 12mm higher that what the original spring perches were on this axle (and my exiting D35). The additional height was needed to accommodate the larger diameter section while still leaving enough surface area to weld on that side.

 

[bmyohn]

looks good...what are u planning on using for the top plate to sandwich the leafspring in place? hardware?

 

[gorman]

I'll be re-using the top plate I'm currently using which I made at a previous stage to set my rear bumpstops. I have 14mm high tensile bolts to sandwich the springs. Personally I'm not too fond of the 8.8 bolts as I'm afraid they might be too brittle, but then again four 14mm bolts...there's a lot of other things that will break first, I think..

 

[MiNi Beast]

Wow. Just read this whole tread and well... find it weird to read so many posts about failing welds on a 4x4 jeep forum. C'mon now welds are good. So are ubolts, but can't say welds are not good enough for anything on the jeep. Only thing where bolting is better, is facing the wife after out all night drinking with buddies at a strip joint.:twak:

 

[2001XJ]

Wow. Just read this whole tread and well... find it weird to read so many posts about failing welds on a 4x4 jeep forum. C'mon now welds are good. So are ubolts, but can't say welds are not good enough for anything on the jeep. Only thing where bolting is better, is facing the wife after out all night drinking with buddies at a strip joint.:twak:

WOW, that is classic!

LMAO