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tranny crossmember studs broken

4

4x4JeePmaNthINg

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
So long ago when i lifted the jeep as many do i opted for the tranny cross-member drop kit mainly because i have the np242. In doing so i snaped 3 of the 4 studs that hold on the cross-member to the body. I tried drilling out the bolts with No luck and believe me ive tried a lot! I snapped every bit ive tried. the passenger side i had a shop weld on as the two studs were broken. the driver side one stud is in solid and the other broke during re install but holds.

My problem now is the lack of service ability. upgrading lifts, tranny cross member support.....

I dont have welding access outside of shops and they love to charge an arm and a leg for a fix. what do you all suggest or what have you done in this situation?

all i can think of is the body needs to be cut into and new tabs with nuts need to be made and welded in. or are their and aftermarket cross-members like claytons i should look into?

thank you for your help
 
Since yer doin a drop anyways, get some 1" tube drill and rivnut so the cross member can bolt to it. It should stick out a couple inches from the crossmember front and rear so you can drill new holes and install new rivnuts in the frame.
 
Sounds like you need better drill bits.

Drilling out broken bolts is a pain in the ass, and any shop you hire is going to do it the same way you would. The reason it's expensive is because it's time consuming.

There are a number of other fixes I can think of, but all involve a fair amount of fabrication work.
 
I just went through this last month. I drilled through the broken bolts and tapped them and put new bolts in. I broke a few bits. What you need are better bits. I broke all my crap bits and then started using my good ones and they cut fine. Spend the money on the Dewalt bits or another good brand, but the single ones that are ten bucks each not the pack of 30 for 24 bucks or whatever.

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Drilling out & re-tapping broken off studs/bolts is not that difficult; if you lack the skill to do it take it to a good shop & have them do it.
If I were you I would purchase a few good drill bits + tap & do it myself, its a good learning experience for you.
 
Do you have carpet? Could always blow the nuts out, drill a hole in the floor, then fish some nuts in from the top and assemble. Cover the hole up with a basic plug. Or put some stiffeners on and weld nuts to the stiffeners before you install them.
 
I'll try better bits. The ones I had were Dewalt but the box of 10 or however many. Are there any other brands I can consider that are worth the money. Not so assured a single Dewalt bit is any better now but I truly don't know. This vehicle is my DD and I've left the crossmember welded for a few years. It's time to start considering getting it fixed. Is drilling oil worthwhile drilling upsidedown? Also what size should I drill out to?
 
Drilling oil should always be used. It's a pain upside down, but it helps keep it cool. The size of the hole is determined by the tap you will be using. It will say what size to use. As for brands, the more expensive the better when it comes to bits. Make sure they're meant for metal obviously. I used 3 bits, starting a small and working up. But don't go too small cause breaking a bit in the hole is a pain.

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I think the last time I did this I used whatever available size bolt/drill/tap I had available, Like 1/2-13 NC Bolt/tap & 27/64" drill bit, I stepped up the bit size starting with 1/4" then 3/8 then 27/64, it was easy as pie, Just try & keep the bit straight & wear gloves + face protection as hot metal shavings from the drilling will be flying everywhere & you don't want it to get on your face or worse in your eyes!!
Remember Safety First & Eye safety even before first!!!!!
Good luck
 
Sounds like a good time to buy a long arm cross member. Some brands require new holes to be drilled and no welding. The couple hundred you spend with the ability to have a long arm system is only a plus.
 
I believe when i tried drilling before on the welded side of the jeep there is a broken drill bit still inside of one stud. does anyone have input on how to surpass this? I also wouldn't mind upgrading to a long arm. does anyone know if the Clayton long arm kit ( just the cross-member and control arms) would fit my 3.5" lift. Rear drive shaft would probably need to be double cardan to eliminate the 1"spacer and vibes right?

at least at this solution i could remove the cross-member and weld the clayton where it should go while at a shop? I really gave drilling these studs out hell last time and struggled getting past drilling out the stud from the nut. (again originally i used cheap bits)

thank you all for your helpful replies
 
also does anyone with a 242 transfer case run a double cardan fixed ( non contracting like the front shaft) rear shaft? im trying to solve this from all angles with some upgrades as options. I would also like to clarify in my last post the clayton long arm kit would not be bolted into the frame but mocked up and welded. Please let me know if this is poor judgement on alignment of the kit.

thank you again for your help
 
Broke mine about 10 years ago when trying to remove the studs. The weld nut broke off inside the body. I ended up making a nut plate and dropped it in thru a slot in the body. Easier than cutting the floor and welding a new nut. .
 
#1 - Look on the back of the package of drill bit, if it says Made in China, Taiwan, India, or any Asian place, move on. Look for USA, Germany, West Germany (yes, there are still some out there), Canada, or Swiss. Use High speed steel. Although cobalt or carbide cut better, in a hand held drill application, they will shatter more easily when they bind. HSS is more forgiving.

#2 - Getting the old drill bit out. Sometimes you can get a strong set of needle nose pliers into the flute recesses and twist it out. If not, just get a good punch or small chisel and hammer and shatter it out.

#3 - First drill out all the factory installed nutserts. Make a metal plate with holes that line up with the hole pattern and weld nuts on the back side, then cut a slot and slip it into the unibody and rosett weld it into place. Wala, permanant fix.
 
what do you think a fair shop price to do this would be? Im in colorado. I'm fine with working on the jeep but I'm out the welder when the fix becomes fab work.
Clayton seems to have a cross-member that has a one inch drop when set up for a manual transmission. Mines auto but this seems viable in place of drop brackets while fixing the broken studs. https://www.claytonoffroad.com/jeep_cherokee_cross_members

Not to get to far off topic but does anyone have any thoughts on 3.5" lift using long arms, clearance issues on the upper arm or in general? Again its my DD so when i get this fixed I need it FIXED and want to do it right.
 
Tapping is very easy I can't imagine charging more for making some threads. I just went through this again today doing the stupid studs because I had to make a quick tc drop. 3 hours later and I was done. Always use a torch in these bolts next time around lol

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