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Tips for upper rear shock mounting bolts

While I think you are wrong about this, you are partially right about them using different bolts on different years. From 88-96 (I did not feel like opening the 84-87 catalog) the bolts were part number J420 0089, while from 97-01 they are J400 1933. For what it's worth, my rusty 96 shock bolts broke very easily.

Yeah, that would make sense. A friend of mine who owns Rock LIzard Fabrications and who works on XJ’s told me that the newer models break much easier due to cheaper grade bolts. Even living in dry regions, they still break easily.
 
when replacing them I always use grade 2 bolts... that way they are easy to drill out and re-tap for the next set of shocks.
 
My 91 had 250k miles of Ohio and Maryland winters and I got the bolts off easily :)

Yep, you just proved my point. The older models had a better grade bolt.
 
you'll be good, you shouldn't need heat with a solid week of spraying it down daily. You don't want to be wielding a flame near the gas tank anyway.

You can waste a can of PB all you want.

I used a crappy mapp/oxy torch setup from home depot and had all 4 bolts out in probably 30 minutes. Didn't need a drop of PB. Oh and my XJ was from Cape Cod.

And you're nowhere near the gas tank if you know how to hold a torch.

I've done several rear shock bolts and I won't touch any suspension bolts on an XJ now without heat.
 
I've found there's no way to predict when they'll come off or when they'll shear. I've had old rotten rusty ones come off easily and clean rust free ones shear just by looking at them.

I've done various things in the past, including laborious drilling and retapping, but last time I did mine, I just sheared them off, punched them out, and then took four pieces of 1/2 x approx. 1/8 inch mild steel flat stock, cut to about 6 inches long. I drilled and tapped holes (I've already forgotten whether I did 1/4 or 5/16, but ordinary US coarse threads in whatever size is closest to the original) near the ends of these pieces, and then inserted them behind the plate that previously held the captive nuts. They're long enough that I could just hold the ends, and minimize fiddling and fishing. A little bending to make them lie flat enough to catch threads, and I just threaded hex bolts into them. Next time, if there is a next time, I'll simply unscrew or shear them, as needed, and pull them out and replace or redrill them as needed. Think of them as nuts with their own handle.
 
All bolts broke on the first XJ. I had a set of bolts standing by just in case. I punched the welded nuts clear with a large drift. I then taped the new bolt to an open end wrench and fed them through the open channel adjacent to the bolt hole.

The second XJ looked cherry and I did not even spray the bolts. Everything came off nice and clean. I'm paying for that now with continued leaking from the rear main seal...
 
You can waste a can of PB all you want.

I used a crappy mapp/oxy torch setup from home depot and had all 4 bolts out in probably 30 minutes. Didn't need a drop of PB. Oh and my XJ was from Cape Cod.

And you're nowhere near the gas tank if you know how to hold a torch.

I've done several rear shock bolts and I won't touch any suspension bolts on an XJ now without heat.



How long should I apply heat?
 
How long should I apply heat?

Depends on what bolt you are working on.

I usually apply mapp/oxy for a solid minute on the head of the rear shock bolt I'm working on, then try to break it free. If it feels like it's going to snap, then I stop and apply more heat. Usually, the rear shock bolts only take a minute or two of heating.

The leaf spring/shackle bolts that have the weld nut in the pocket, I usually drill a hole coming up from the bottom to where the weld nut would be (large enough to fit the flame through) and heat the weld nut up RED hot. I've sat on that nut for 4-5 minutes before and kept a fire extinguisher nearby.

Never broken a weld nut or had a problem with sleeves sticking to the bolt. I live in the rust belt and have done this on all years of cherokees (a '91, '92 and a '98).
 
Depends on what bolt you are working on.

I usually apply mapp/oxy for a solid minute on the head of the rear shock bolt I'm working on, then try to break it free. If it feels like it's going to snap, then I stop and apply more heat. Usually, the rear shock bolts only take a minute or two of heating.

The leaf spring/shackle bolts that have the weld nut in the pocket, I usually drill a hole coming up from the bottom to where the weld nut would be (large enough to fit the flame through) and heat the weld nut up RED hot. I've sat on that nut for 4-5 minutes before and kept a fire extinguisher nearby.

Never broken a weld nut or had a problem with sleeves sticking to the bolt. I live in the rust belt and have done this on all years of cherokees (a '91, '92 and a '98).


Thanks for all your help. I bought the PB Blaster today and plan to start a 3 week spray/soak duration. Once we get the Jeep on the lift, then we’ll do the heat as you have recommended. I’m still a little confused as whether I should be using an impact or socket? I would think a socket would be best, but I’ve heard some say that the impact seems to work better? Thoughts?
 
Thanks for all your help. I bought the PB Blaster today and plan to start a 3 week spray/soak duration. Once we get the Jeep on the lift, then we’ll do the heat as you have recommended. I’m still a little confused as whether I should be using an impact or socket? I would think a socket would be best, but I’ve heard some say that the impact seems to work better? Thoughts?

I would not put an impact anywhere near the upper shock bolts.

Suspension bolts is fine.

The only problem with using an impact is you can't tell if you're going to snap the bolt or not. If you use a ratchet, you can usually feel the bolt beginning to stretch.
 
. . .Think of them as nuts with their own handle.

I'm actually trying to not think of them like that!:roflmao:


PB Blaster didn't stop me from snapping all four of mine. Lack of patience didn't help either, but even trying to work the bolts back and forth wasn't getting anywhere. That was a rusty Jeep and I ended up just cutting holes in the floor and feeding bolts in from above. Will try the torch on my current Jeep though. Sounds like the best option. :flame:
 
I'm getting ready to do my rears again. Last time they snapped and I used a long 14" bit to drill up from the bottom through the hatch area floor, then came back with a hole saw and drilled down through the floor to give room for a socket. I had help, so it was just a matter of having an extra set of hands hold a wrench on one end or the other.

This time I don't have help, so I'm debating about putting the shocks in, then marking the bolt head location on the bar pin and throwing a couple tacks on em. That way I can put the nuts on through the hatch without an extra set of hands. Anyone else done this?

I'm also doing my rear leafs at the same time....sounds like that's gonna be fun. 150K 2001 XJ in Northern IL.
 
Living in San Diego I dont have the same problems I would have if I still lived in New York with the snow and salts....
Replaced my rear shocks after having the Jeep about 6 months (installed ProComp 3" lift). No problems since the Jeep was purchased new in '97 and whenever I disassemble ANYTHING; I apply loccease to the bolt threads. Makes the next time so much easier....
 
I apply loccease to the bolt threads. Makes the next time so much easier....

What is the correct spelling for your "loccease". I think that's a good idea, but I can't find what you are discribing.
 
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