Synthetic rope vs. steel cable

[Graphics]

Im looking to get a new winch, and have made my choice, however it comes in synthetic and steel variants. Now due to safety concerns and for someone like me who hasn't used them much... I'm leaning to the synthetic rope. Also its 40lbs of weight saving appeals to me.

What about the negative aspects of synthetic? Are there any? Anyone use one long enough to wish they had steel? In my experience i feel like there might be a time i may need to drop the rope off of an edge with minimal protection, rope abrasion comes to mind. How sturdy is synthetic? Wouldn't it rub/melt at certain instances if it abrades against a rough surface long enough?

I guess i don't know enough about synthetic ropes other than rock climbing and thats a slightly different school of thought, but any input would be great.

 

[cal]

its pretty stable, the situations that would tear up synthetic would kink or tear at steel as well.

You can always fold a tow strap over a few times and run the cable over it to avoid abrasion.

I won't use steel cable, nor allow anyone to use it when I am involved in recovery. I have seen them break twice, and they do a TON of damage to whatever they can find.

 

[GSequoia]

Synthetic gets smelly when it sits wet spooled up on your winch.

Steel gets rusty with it sits wet spooled up on your winch.

Six one way, half a dozen the other. I prefer synthetic and will be moving mine over to it soon (have rope, haven't had a chance to respool yet).

Steel cable is deadly. I make sure people stand well clear when I use it.

 

[David_Bricker]

Many synthetic rope include two extra items:

• a sleeve to install over the first wrap of rope on the drum. This helps prevent the rope from melting when running the winch very hard for a long time.
• a sleeve that can be repositioned to act as a abrasion guard. I use mine at the very end of the rope, to help reduce the rope's exposure to UV rays.

Sun will deteriorate a rope, so it's best to cover it somehow when not in use.


Also, roller fairleads and synthetic rope don't mix well. Best to get a Hawse fairlead to use with rope.


David Bricker / SYR

 

[Graphics]

Also, roller fairleads and synthetic rope don't mix well. Best to get a Hawse fairlead to use with rope.


David Bricker / SYR

That is good to know, i did not consider this.

 

[WB9YZU]

Aluminum Hause fairlead. Cast iron is not recommended either.

Steel is basic. Treat it well and it will give years of service.
Keep the kinks out, and hit it with WD40 to keep it from rusting and all's happy.

Synthetic is nice. Easy to pull, doesn't weigh much.
The things which degrade synthetic are the same things which weaken any rope.
Knots, abrasion , UV all degrade the rope.
Easy to "repair" temporary. I have seen folks tie it back together and continue the pull.

The plus ,as stated above, is when it breaks, it just pretty much does only that. i haven't experienced what happens if the hook end breaks loose from the vehicle you are trying to recover.

You have to weigh the cost benefit of one vs how much you actually use the winch.
Learn the safety precautions when pulling with steel or synth line. Improper use of either can kill or maim if not used properly.

 

[tbburg]

Personally, I'm of 2 minds about this. For any kind of competition, or on a rock rig or dedicated wheeler, where constant/regular use and speed are important, I'd go with synthetic.
For the daily driver/weekend warrior, where the winch sits spooled up for months at a time, I'd stick with steel.

Synthetic line is relatively expensive. It's biggest enemy outside of physical damage is UV exposure. Leaving it spooled up, exposed on the front of your DD is probably the worst thing you can do to that expensive line. Most manufacturers now include UV covers to slow the deterioration. Weather they hold up as well as steel is kind of an open question.(maybe not to the manufacturers)

Steel line is easy to maintain. Keep it lubed and clean and it's happy. "Maintenance" consists of a once a year un-spool/inspection/cleaning/lubing/re-spool. cleaning involves brushing it off, lubing involves a can of WD. If it gets kinked, throw it away. If the line starts to corrode, throw it away. End of story.
(In reality a steel cable under continuous use should be lubed with grease, but we don't winch that much so internal cable wear isn't a big issue, and lord knows we don't want to get dirty while out wheeling. )

Likewise, synthetic line maintenance is simple. If it shows damage or fraying, toss it. If it becomes bleached out from sun(UV) exposure, toss it.

In either case, if you start to see or feel broken fibers(synthetic) or wires(steel), toss it, even if the cable/line is in otherwise good condition.

Short of an overload or outright abuse, steel doesn't just break. It'll warn you well in advance. The problem is most 4-wheelers never dealt with steel cable in an industrial setting and don't know the warning signs, or ignore obvious damage.

Synthetic line is safer in the event of a failure. This is why everyone preaches safety when using steel.
If you use synthetic, use an aluminum(as mentioned) or plastic fairlead, and regularly inspect it for damage. Any scrapes, deep scratches or especially burrs need to be filed/ground down and sanded/polished smooth.

Personally I've never seen steel break, although I've seen the aftermath of a failed tow point.(Cable wasn't "safetied" with a strap and shot back at the recovery vehicle, no one hurt, lot of dented metal) I have seen synthetic fail. It broke with very little strain on it, and looking at the torn line, it was obvious the line was well beyond it's useful life(UV breakdown). The owner hadn't replaced it because of expense, so he had a winch that was pretty useless.

 

[Graphics]

All really great stuff. Thank you everyone for your great input. :worship:

Are there any implication with Synthetic when it gets wet? (e.g. reduced tinsel strength, deterioration) Does one simply pull it out and let air dry? Also What does one do to keep steel cable from rusting? Is that caused by non use? Or areas of abrasion after use?

I test and clean my equipment once a month if it hasn't been used. I know the ramifications of what happens when people use fancy equipment for show and not use. Call me crazy but I need it to work all the time every time.

 

[GSequoia]

No reduced strength with wet synthetic, it can just get stinky. Spool out and air dry is the ticket. What TTBerg said about UV is an issue but I wouldn't worry about it. Keep your last wrap covered to keep the sun off it when sitting on the bumper and you should be good to go.

Rust happens when the steel cable is abraded scraping the galvanization wears off. I don't worry too much about it, I have very little on my six year old cable.

Personally if you can swing it go synthetic. No reason not to in the real, non-industrial world.

 

[xcm]

Wet rope molds, which is very bad on expensive rope.

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

I'm running steel cable on my winch(s) and will only run a Master-pull Superline XD if it were given to me (But, they are $600+)

I trust steel cable, It's proven.. add weight to it and stand back..

I have yet to see a steel cable break, But I've seen too many broken ropes..