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Rough Country Flex-Joints worn

Thanks Mud...after reading this and the other threads on this I"ll just get the currie joints you guys linked up above...
 
I just noticed something. The links provided for the joints from Currie show uppers with left hand thread and lowers with right hand thread. Aren't they supposed to be the same?
 
good point - i recall them both being right hand thread...or turning closewise to tighten in?
 
Yeah I think so. I wanna be sure I'm getting the right ones before I order em. I'm pretty sure it's right hand threaded but I need to confirm it.
 
Found the right hand threaded version of the smaller joint so these are what we need:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product.aspx?id=1262

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product569.aspx?id=2629


I'm about to order once I get the confirmation from Currie that these will work. We might have to enlarge the holes on the upper arms to 7/16 because RC uses 10mm if I'm correct. The 7/16 bolt might fit in there, I dunno yet till I try.

Do you think 2 1/4" of shank is enough? The RC joints have about 4.5" of threaded shank.
 
7/16" = a bit over 11mm. I just called and they said it would be better to just drill out the mounts to 7/16" and use their grease-able bolts and hardware which they sell for $15/pair.

In regards to shank and thread engagement, talking it over with him he said that for a 1" diameter or larger thread, getting as much as the thread is fine. For things smaller you want 1.5x or so of engagement.

the rough country has a lot of thread engagement, but it also could be b/c of the fact the metal used in their joints is really not very strong. I have to admit it was pretty light how large the metal joints were.
 
z06elmo said:
7/16" = a bit over 11mm. I just called and they said it would be better to just drill out the mounts to 7/16" and use their grease-able bolts and hardware which they sell for $15/pair.

In regards to shank and thread engagement, talking it over with him he said that for a 1" diameter or larger thread, getting as much as the thread is fine. For things smaller you want 1.5x or so of engagement.

the rough country has a lot of thread engagement, but it also could be b/c of the fact the metal used in their joints is really not very strong. I have to admit it was pretty light how large the metal joints were.
Click to expand...

Well I have about 1.5" of exposed thread on the lower joints right now. That's not including what the jam nut is covering. I'd probably have to shorten the wheelbase an inch if needed.

I'm speaking with Darrel from Currie via email.

What's the purpose of the greaseable bolts? Do the center balls have grease ports inside? Don't they get greased from the grease fitting on the joint housing?
 
From Currie:

The smaller joint has that much threading (2 1/4"). The farther out you go, the more leverage you have on that thread. If you have it backed out that much, the ¾ thread can’t handle the stress. Its just not big enough. The 1-1/4 stuff is closer to 4 inches of thread because the huge shank can handle it.
Click to expand...

So it appears the bigger joint's page has a typo. It should say 4" of thread, not 2 1/4. So this will definitely work with the RC arms.
 
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I'm actually not too sure what the point is of grease-able bolts, but it's what he recommended for the application so i went with it.

Glad that's a type-o on the length - shortening your wheelbase could cause the tire to hit the rearmost part of your fender.

I hope to get them by the weekend and do an install on saturday/sunday.
 
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z06elmo said:
I'm actually not too sure what the point is of grease-able bolts, but it's what he recommended for the application so i went with it.

Glad that's a type-o on the length - shortening your wheelbase could cause the tire to hit the rearmost part of your fender.

I hope to get them by the weekend and do an install on saturday/sunday.
Click to expand...

Yup that's what I was worried about....but not anymore. :)

Let us know what goes down with those new joints. Pictures would be great too.

I'm currently speaking with RC on another forum. Gonna wait to see what they say about this before jumping on currie's joints.
 
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I'm willing to guinea pig my jeep. worse case scenario i would have gotten dirty and I would have to ship back the joints for a refund.

If the thread is the right size then I'm confident it will work. I will also take pics while i'm down there as well.

Danny
 
muddeprived said:
What's the purpose of the greaseable bolts? Do the center balls have grease ports inside? Don't they get greased from the grease fitting on the joint housing?
Click to expand...

The greasable bolts are really the only way to get any grease inside the joint without taking it apart. The urethane cups are so tight that the joints that have the outer barrell zerk rarely take any grease.

Just assemble the joint with some quality Moly grease. You'll likely not ever have to regrease. I have a set of forged I never greased on the XJ that have over 40k miles on them, and are still quiet and tight enough I have to realign with a screwdriver. I can honestly say there is no other joint I've ever had or even heard of that lasts that long.
 
Gaius said:
The greasable bolts are really the only way to get any grease inside the joint without taking it apart. The urethane cups are so tight that the joints that have the outer barrell zerk rarely take any grease.

Just assemble the joint with some quality Moly grease. You'll likely not ever have to regrease. I have a set of forged I never greased on the XJ that have over 40k miles on them, and are still quiet and tight enough I have to realign with a screwdriver. I can honestly say there is no other joint I've ever had or even heard of that lasts that long.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that info. I'm sold on the Currie joints but want to wait to see what RC has to say about it. I don't think there is much they can do other than send me more of these joints that don't work but I'll see what they say. RC has been excellent regarding getting me parts, it's just that they don't work unfortunately.
 
Yeah I'm interested in what they have to say, I was planning on springing for a kit in a couple months. I have a few other options so if it looks like I'll be changing bushings out every couple months then it changes things.
 
Get the Currie Johnny joints if you're going to do it. The ones from Ruff Stuff look like Hiem joints to me. I wouldn't want to run heim joints on these parts. I don't think it's meant for the abuse, also the shank is way short.

Hiem joints are good for steering etc.
 
I received a box in the mail from RC. It contained some interesting parts.

This just might be the cure of my ongoing joint issue.......
 
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