Reply from Amsoil dealer. What about it?

[Eagle]

I'm running the K&N air filter too. My air box is a little warped which makes seating the filter a little hard. I haven't noticed any stuff past the filter yet but with my warped box I can see how I could get some.

The flat K&N filter listed for the XJ is actually about 3/8" too short for the XJ box. I don't have the number written down, but a long time ago someone posted that the filter element listed for one of the Dodge pickups is a better fit in the XJ air box.

 

[Hawaiian Style]

I'm not the brightest bulb on the christmas tree but I don't have any problem remembering 3k intervals... Last was a 176k next is at 179k. :laugh3: Hey, whatever works, works. I bet I could get to 5k on my oil but I'm just can't stand the sight of dirty oil.

 

[markpr]

Hi,

I changed over to Amsoil at 140K shortly after changing out the rear main seal, valve cover gasket and oil filter gasket (all were weeping)

To changeover, I used a GUNK engine flush at half-strength prior to the change. Then ran synthetic for about 1000 miles and used the remainder of the engine flush in a second drain. I then just poured in a couple of quarts of non-synthetic until the oil being drained ran clear.

The first full synthetic run lasted about 3000miles before darkening substantially ( I assume this is the cleaning agents in the oil ) and then the second synthetic run is still looking good at 6000miles. I use Mobil-1 filters but am switching to Amsoil filters with the next change.

As for the cost of Amsoil synthetics versus others, take a look at becoming a "preferred customer". It costs about $20 per year and gives you big discounts on retail (it's all on the Amsoil web site).

I have Amsoil synthetics coming this week for the differentials, manual transmission and transfer case. I do intend to put Amsoil ATF in the transfer case.

Mark

 

[ECKSJAY]

I have heard that wix and hastings make really good filters but none of the places around here carry them.

Napa Gold is rumored to be made by Wix. Saw it on minimopars and the guys at my local parts house carry Wix 'because they're the same as Napa's'. :wave: The faces sure look the same, as do the valves inside.

Napa Gold 1773 is a Ford app, but it is about 1qt larger than the stock 4.0L HO filter. I figured it out by some extensive cross-referencing and measuring. One day I just took the adapter from my 95 HO into the parts store and threaded it into one of the large filters (I had run the Fram equivelent PH8A on mine for a while, being 1/2qt or so larger than stock)...and it fit. I've been running this filter for 3 years now. More filter area and 1qt extra capacity.

Disclaimer: This only fits on HO 'metric' threads...and on filter mounts that face rearward. You hit the fender on the early XJ's with standpipe conversions. *edit* And oh yeah...I know this is OEM Tech.

 

[Churchlady]

Rich; I really needed this:
-------------------------
" As far as the rear seal going, I know that alot post here about the problem but I bet the failure rate for the total vehicles out there is pretty low. You never see POSITIVE postings like 'my rear seal lasted 200,000 or 400,000mi and is still going strong' like mine is at almost 200,000mi."
--------------------------
It's the kind of Duhhh it's easy to forget when you're reading about almost nothing but problems.

Hawaiian, you write:
------------------------
"I'm not the brightest bulb on the christmas tree but I don't have any problem remembering 3k intervals... Last was a 176k next is at 179k. Hey, whatever works, works. I bet I could get to 5k on my oil but I'm just can't stand the sight of dirty oil."
------------------------
Do you run synthetic & change it every 3000 miles? Then why pay the considerable exta cost for oils whose most obvious advantage (to me at least) is the time & money saved on the 2X longer change interval?

Ecksjay & egon, what's the advantage of a larger filter ?

MarkPR, you seem to be the only Amsoil user; two questions for you.
You obviously don't agree w/Rich that a preliminary engine cleaner isn't necessary before changing to synthetic. What do you see as the benefit(s) & why do you use Gunk & not the Amsoil engine cleaner?

 

[Hawaiian Style]

"Do you run synthetic & change it every 3000 miles? Then why pay the considerable exta cost for oils whose most obvious advantage (to me at least) is the time & money saved on the 2X longer change interval?"

I run synthetics because they don't leave nearly as much sludge as dino oil nor does it leave what I call "oil ash" all over my valve cover. The way I see it, it costs me about 25 bucks to do an oil change. Crappylube, sorry, I mean Jiffylube type outfits and the stealership are still charging around 19.95. It's not about the money for me, it's about making my engine as happy as I can. Clean, quality oil seems like one of the best ways to do that. Like I said, I'm sure I could go to 5k without any problems, but I'm kinda crazy :wierd: about clean oil. You also have to factor in the fact that I don't drive nearly as much as many people do. I like the stabilizing effect of synthetics... they resist some of that acid build up better that dino. My YJ gets an oil change about twice a year even though it barely moves... I guess you could say I'm anal?

XJ gets about 5-7k per year, YJ doesn't even get 1500, the wife's ZJ is the champ at about 10k per year.

 

[kevin s]

All these posts and no one has mentioned NAPA Gold oil filters. Made by Wix.

 

[Sarge]

All these posts and no one has mentioned NAPA Gold oil filters. Made by Wix.

Count three posts up from yours. Wix makes a lot of filters for a lot of companies supposedly.

Sarge

 

[ECKSJAY]

*edit* Thanks Sarge.

 

[Churchlady]

Kevin, yes they have. See ecksjay's post 24.

Hawaiian, I see what you mean. A few years ago I had my Trooper's oil changed the last week of December, right after getting back from a Christmas trip from Michigan to Texas.

Towards the end of March I knew it had been over 3 mos. & I took it in for LOF. The mechanic read the sticker & looked at me strangely: "Lady, do you realize you've only put 314 miles on it since the last change?"

That does happen now & then in the winter, esp. in periods of horrible weather. I just don't get out much or I ride with one of my children when possible . How important IS the factor of sheer elapsed TIME between oil changes?

I've always tried, BTW (after reading "Drive it Forever" 10 or so years ago), to group my short trips & drive the necessary (5?) miles to heat up the engine enough to evaporate condensation. ("Slick 50" aside, that was a very helpful book.)

 

[Churchlady]

Poor Kevin. I didn't mean to pile on. Sarge & ecksjay posted while I was piddling around making coffee halfway through writing mine.

 

[Weasel]

I'm running purly syth. in my 89 with no problems. The 4.0 has 169k on it and no leaks.

I had my rear main replaced around 148k and then did the switch to Redline 5W20. I haven't had any problem with leaks whatso ever.

I imagine the engine cleaner would just be a cheaper way to speed up the cleaning process then to rely on 8-9 dollars quarts of sythn.

Actaully I'm running Amsoil in my diffs and you can definatly feel the difference over the dyno in the cold weather. The diffs are no wear near as stiff.

In the t-case and tranny I'm running Redline ATF with no problems. I had a problem with regualr ATF turning a slight brown clor pretty quickly after having it changed(no burned smell though). So I switched to Redline ATF and it's still the normal red color.

Imo there are three top sythn. oil to run. Amsoil, Redline, and Royal Purple. Pick a brand or whichever is your favorite as I think they are all pretty close to the same.

Mobil and the other sythne(Castrol, Pennsoil, ect) are the next down and followed by the dyno oils.

For filters I run either a Wix or Napa gold. I used to run K&N but the few test run on them didn't yield any spectacular and the 10 bucks price tag is a bit much.

 

[Churchlady]

Weasel, that was good & clear. How often do you change your Amsoil engine oil?

 

[Eagle]

Napa Gold 1773 is a Ford app, but it is about 1qt larger than the stock 4.0L HO filter. I figured it out by some extensive cross-referencing and measuring. One day I just took the adapter from my 95 HO into the parts store and threaded it into one of the large filters (I had run the Fram equivelent PH8A on mine for a while, being 1/2qt or so larger than stock)...and it fit. I've been running this filter for 3 years now. More filter area and 1qt extra capacity.

Disclaimer: This only fits on HO 'metric' threads...and on filter mounts that face rearward. You hit the fender on the early XJ's with standpipe conversions. *edit* And oh yeah...I know this is OEM Tech.

1) I seriously doubt that this filter holds a quart more than the stock filter. More I can accept, but to hold an additional quart it would have to be too big to fit in the space available.

2) The non-HO uses the metric thread. The HO filter uses an SAE thread.

 

[Weasel]

I haven't changed the amsoil in the diffs yet, but I need to check them this summer and see how it's doing.

I ran the redline in the engine for about 4-5k before chaning it and plan on running this set alittle longer.

I've been changing it sooner then I need since I didn't do the engien cleaer and my oil is still cleaning and gets yucky pretty quickly.

After that I havn't decided when I will change it next. I have beent hinking or doing one change at the begining of summer to a hot weather grade then another during the winter to a cold weather grade. I haven't decided if 5W20 is ok for really hot weather(90-100) and I should keep using it or switch to something like a 10W40. But basicly two engine oil changes a year is what I'm aiming for.

 

[ECKSJAY]

1) I seriously doubt that this filter holds a quart more than the stock filter. More I can accept, but to hold an additional quart it would have to be too big to fit in the space available.

It goes straight back. There's like 14" of room there. This filter is like 8-9" long or so. The dipstick told me to add one more quart than I did before I put the filter on. I made sure to check that the first time I tried it. Dan Starc's got this setup on his stroker after seeing mine.

I'll post pics of the open space if you can't picture what I'm talking about.

2) The non-HO uses the metric thread. The HO filter uses an SAE thread.

Shiat...my bad. :dunce: Hence the reason for calling it a "SAE conversion." :doh:

 

[DenLip]

The best price I've found on a factory service manual is $100. Sound right?

That shouldn't be the "best" price... I just paid $90 + shipping/handling
($106 total) to get a spankin' new one from Daimler-Chrysler!

Look around, and you should find one cheaper if you're patient. There were
a couple on ebay when I was lookin'...

Den

 

[RichP]

There is a phone number for the publication group in the back of your owners manual in your glove box. You can also order them on-line but I'm at a customers site and don't have the URL handy.

 

[ZmOz]

I had my rear main replaced around 148k and then did the switch to Redline 5W20. I haven't had any problem with leaks whatso ever.

You're using 5w20 in a 4.0?? :shocked: That oil is for Hondas. you should be runnnig a 40 weight oil with that high of mileage.

 

[kevin s]

Arrrgh...must be in...time...warp....
Didn't see the other posts about Wix previous. Maybe my computer clock is off so the post time is haywire. Anyway, NAPA Gold may or may not say "made by Wix" right on the box. I have seen them both ways. All of them say "made in Gastonia, (some state or other). What they definitely don't say is "buy me, I'm a Fram in disguise!!"