• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Renix help.

you can block off the EGR and the renix PCM won't care.

you may notice a slight decrease in highway cruising MPG, but it will be nearly unmeasurable.

Make sure you cap and remove all the EGR solenoid vacuum stuff.
 
It is pretty common to see the hard line repaired with a short length of vacuum hose. It seems to work.

I had the same hose problem with a pump I had installed. It would start cold and drive around fine until it warmed up. I was pulling my hair out until I put a gauge on the fuel rail and discovered 15 psi is enough pressure for it to idle.

I don't know if emissions will pass you with an EGR delete, it is part of the visual inspection. I got lucky and found a new one at the junkyard.
 
well dang. i am registered in OK so that should not be an issue. so all i need is a plate to block off the egr then? if it has no lines going to it, can i just leave it in place but not working? it moves freely i checked it
 
ok so plugged the egr vac lines and that line that bleeds exhaust. it freely moves so i am leaving it in for now. when i open the valve with a screwdriver the engine bogs down like it is supposed to. so it's "at rest" state is closed. and i am leaving it that way for now.
now fuel pressure
key on. zero.
cranking, it comes up and once started settles at 35 psi.
remove the vac line on fuel pressure regulator and it goes up to 40 psi.
replaced fuel filter and same readings.
looked and sprayed for vac leaks and all i can come up with is the IAC. all holes are plugged, and all wires are repaired. but i still have the big connector on the firewall but i did clean it up some. still fighting super duper mega high idle. grrrr
 
If the IAC is sticking open it'll idle high. Just had to replace the one on my MJ for the same reason. I was just getting an intermittent high idle though.
When I first got my MJ I had to delete the EGR system as well. Ran and drove fine for the next two years.
Also allowed me to eliminate a bunch of the related vacuum mess. Now the 88 motor is a concoction of 88, 92, 96 and 00 4.0L engine parts, but greatly simplified.
 
Have you pulled/cleaned the IAC at all ... First sign when they go is a high idle, either intermittently like mine or sustained like yours.
The IAC is just a simple controlled vacuum leak after all.
 
Devilfrog said:
Have you pulled/cleaned the IAC at all ... First sign when they go is a high idle, either intermittently like mine or sustained like yours.
The IAC is just a simple controlled vacuum leak after all.
Click to expand...
mine would go low and back to "normal" and now with other problems just went to hell.i think all the rest is fixed, and the ignition module is done as a hedge against being stranded. i ll keep the old one as a spare. i covered the port with my thumb and a rag and got it down to idle speed. if this isnt it, then it is a computer/wiring issues i dont know about. i fixed all teh rest
 
If you solved it by covering the port, you where the issue is.
Some IAC's require adjustments prior to install (usually they will have a small card stating so). Swap the Latch Relay for another relay you know is good. Try starting again, twice.
If that has no effect start tracing the IAC wiring back.
Enjoy the pizza, and good luck.
 
yep foring to re set the TPS and this time clean battery terminals and then go again and see what i can get. the manual says, if you get high idle, reset the tps and try again.
 
update IAC is not functioning at all.
checked plug, checked wires. pulled the 4 wires out of the harness and bypassed the bulkhead connector, re connected and same result.
 
ok so this morning i did the following
loosened the tps.
dis connected the battery
and re connected the battery.
re set the tps voltage
and still no change.
checked the wires and plug, checked with Ohm meter all good on all 4 wires
 
so re checking the square plug to set the output voltage, the B terminal i get the right voltage. the info i find says i should have that from D terminal. My D terminal reads .778 or something, but less than 1 V.

this is the square plug with terminals AB and D not the flat plug with ABC on it's 3 terminals.
as others, my square plug is only marked as A and B .
 
Last edited:
You set the TPS off the three terminal plug, output voltage should read 17% of input voltage. Usually input voltage is about 4.8v up to 5v. The 4 pole plug is for the Transmission TCU and actually works backward to the engine side (engine side outputs an increasing voltage, TCU side is decreasing voltage).
As you can only adjust one side of the sensor correctly, rule of thumb is to set the engine side, the trans side is more forgiving.
 
update i suppose
ok going back over it all.
lost 1 and 2nd gear. classic TPS symptom.
2 used and 2 new TPS and got nowhere.
then lost idle and stuck on high idle since.
repaired all grounds in engine compartment.
MAP sensor is working.
my TPS is set at 4.15V and .83 percent
replaced o2 sensor tonight.
block temp sensor is getting 5.02V and 378 Ohms at warm ambient air temp.block was warm


for this saturday, new temp sensor.
 
added the o2 sensor. nothing changed except the gears --it stays in gear longer. before i always thought it short shifted as it went thru the 4 gears. but many newer cars do for fuel economy reasons. next today is block temp sensor. and new coolant.
stay tuned lmao
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Braided Fuel Line/Fittings Size From Quick Clip to Rail
Replies
2
Views
1K
GraniteCow
G
X
Making the frame purdy
2 3
Replies
49
Views
839
Bent
Bent
B
Reasons for white exhaust smoke besides head gasket?
Replies
4
Views
854
cruiser54
C
I
Bought Son 2000 XJ, Need Help with RC Lift
2 3
Replies
45
Views
6K
Tim_MN
Tim_MN
Xtreme XJ
Crank, no start even with new CPS...
Replies
13
Views
2K
Xtreme XJ
Xtreme XJ
Back
Top