Rear axle dilema...have questions

[korda]

I had a problem twisting stock shafts in my XJ Dana 44. Then I bent the housing, not even sure how I managed that. After talking to a few people who had done the exact same thing with XJ 44s, Scout 44s and Waggy 44's, I decided to build a 9" or a 60.

Sounds like a similar setup to yours: 35" tires, not light, daily driver.

I built a semi-float 60, disc brakes, 35 spline moser shafts and a detroit for around $1600.

I wouldn't waste the time and money on the 44, I know that sounds cliche, but it really is the best option.

 

[4ward]

I built a semi-float 60, disc brakes, 35 spline moser shafts and a detroit for around $1600.

I wouldn't waste the time and money on the 44, I know that sounds cliche, but it really is the best option.

How is this the best option? For $300 worth of alloy shafts and $1-200 for the arb part, you'd give up on something that already has all that fab/setup time into it?

Jeff, I don't think you'll have issues with the alloys. How old were those shafts anyhow?

When I say alloys, I mean 30 or 33 spl. I really think the 30's would be more than enough.

 

[Jes]

How is this the best option? For $300 worth of alloy shafts and $1-200 for the arb part, you'd give up on something that already has all that fab/setup time into it?

Jeff, I don't think you'll have issues with the alloys. How old were those shafts anyhow?

When I say alloys, I mean 30 or 33 spl. I really think the 30's would be more than enough.

Yep, I agree.
I've had no issues with my Superiors over the past 3+ years(although I just got another set for spares) and I've not been nice to them.

 

[BrettM]

Go Toyota!



alright, i'll go back to my corner now....

 

[Paul S]

I'll jump on the rebuild with 30 spline alloys bandwagon.
IMO balanced components are an important & often overlooked consideration.
A 44 with 30 spline alloys is perfectly matched to 35" tires.
A 44 R&P is perfectly matched to 30 spline alloys.
It's debatable, but you could argue that 35 spline shafts actually reduce the overall reliability of a 44 due to the added stress they put on the R&P. This is why most Currie HP9's are setup with 31 spline shafts, even considering that it's the same cost to go with 35 splines.

Paul

 

[korda]

How is this the best option? For $300 worth of alloy shafts and $1-200 for the arb part, you'd give up on something that already has all that fab/setup time into it?

Jeff, I don't think you'll have issues with the alloys. How old were those shafts anyhow?

When I say alloys, I mean 30 or 33 spl. I really think the 30's would be more than enough.

Well, that just my experience. After talking to a few people who went down this exact same path I decided not waste the time and money. One guy fixed his twisting shafts with alloy ones, then he bent the housing, after fixing that he ended up breaking the pinion gear.

I called it quits after bending the housing.

 

[Lincoln]

I'll jump on the rebuild with 30 spline alloys bandwagon.
IMO balanced components are an important & often overlooked consideration.
A 44 with 30 spline alloys is perfectly matched to 35" tires.
A 44 R&P is perfectly matched to 30 spline alloys.
It's debatable, but you could argue that 35 spline shafts actually reduce the overall reliability of a 44 due to the added stress they put on the R&P. This is why most Currie HP9's are setup with 31 spline shafts, even considering that it's the same cost to go with 35 splines.

Paul

What would you know anyway, webwheeler.

 

[Jes]

What would you know anyway, webwheeler.

Ya really, just gets old seeing people spew something that their friend told them, that they read on pirate one day. There is more to the world then 35spline D60s...

:confused1

 

[Lincoln]

Ya really, just gets old seeing people spew something that their friend told them, that they read on pirate one day. There is more to the world then 35spline D60s...

:confused1

Yeh, I got a hot buy on a 10 spline 44. It's just as strong as those 30 splines shafts. :laugh3:

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Well, for an update, I called ARB and found out the flange cap is only $72.36 and DC4wd quoted me $77 shipped, so I got that coming. I had him throw in a carrier bearing for $21 too. The ARB is worth that much to fix I think. I also found out that the 33 and 35 spline D44 ARB's have no parts interchangeability with the RD06 30 spline unit. DC4wd quoted me $700 for the RD109 35 spline D44 ARB and $670 for the Rd113 D44 ARB. I'm still unsure about shafts, but it sure looks like the consesus is to get a set of 30 spline alloys and get back on the road. So where should I look for '89 Waggy D44 rear alloy shafts?

Dutchman, Moser, anyplace else?

Jeff

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Also, what about making the Waggy D44 into a full floater using a Warn kit? I'm not sure they make one for the Waggy axle, nor what it would cost, but it is a thought. Full float using 30 spline alloy shafts might make a pretty strong D44, don't you think? Jeff

 

[JerryV]

Would it be safe to say that that is the first rear shaft that you broke in that axle? I am not sure that is why I am asking. It seems from talking with you it was. If that was the case it would seem it has served its time.
To bad it did all that damage in the process. Seems that Fixing the ARB and some alloy shafts would be the way to go.

Damn, them 35's have been hard on parts.

Jerry

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Would it be safe to say that that is the first rear shaft that you broke in that axle? I am not sure that is why I am asking. It seems from talking with you it was. If that was the case it would seem it has served its time.
To bad it did all that damage in the process. Seems that Fixing the ARB and some alloy shafts would be the way to go.

Damn, them 35's have been hard on parts.

Jerry

Yes, that is the first rear shaft I have ever broken. I've been very lucky considering where I've driven the thing. I am quite easy on the go pedal, but eventually something is going to go. This was an expensive jaunt, but all in all, Apple Valley was FUN. We had a good showing of LCJ's and it is so cool to see all the crazy rigs there. Weather was great and the campfires were very nice as well as the almost full moon in a clear sky. Jeff

 

[Gil BullyKatz]

8.8's are a pretty common axle upgrade for jeeps. Mainly cause they are pretty common in Junkyards and they have just as much aftermarket product support as Dana axles do.

Also, if you find an 8.8 from a 96+ Ford explorer they have disc breaks. They also have 31 spline axle shafts. Plus... the width of the axle compared to stock jeep axles are almost the same. The 8.8 is about 2 inches narrower.

Really?

hmmm... I don't think the D44 vs 8.8 discussion has ever happened around here...

 

[Lincoln]

Dutchman, Moser, anyplace else?

Jeff

I would go Dutchman, they start with Superior blanks. No one I've known has been overly happy with Moser. Definately worth the money to fix vs. buy another.

Also, what about making the Waggy D44 into a full floater using a Warn kit? I'm not sure they make one for the Waggy axle, nor what it would cost, but it is a thought. Full float using 30 spline alloy shafts might make a pretty strong D44, don't you think? Jeff

I looked into the the FF setup and didn't think it was worth it. Also had a couple of axle builders caution me that a truss would be a good idea when going FF on a stock axle. I guess the semi float shafts actually add to the stiffness of the housing and that is lost when going FF. Even stock FF's have a stiffer tube to compensate. I'm probably spewing more since I don't have any experience with that.

I think your plan is pretty good and cost effective. And Paul did have a good point about the heavy shafts making the ring gear the weak link. But I would much rather break a ring gear than a shaft.

 

[Paul S]

What would you know anyway, webwheeler.

I get my facts from Pirate & another website (can't remember the name), so I think they're true :wave:

Paul

 

[HEP111]

I looked into the the FF setup and didn't think it was worth it. Also had a couple of axle builders caution me that a truss would be a good idea when going FF on a stock axle. I guess the semi float shafts actually add to the stiffness of the housing and that is lost when going FF. Even stock FF's have a stiffer tube to compensate. I'm probably spewing more since I don't have any experience with that.

.....any truth (not being an a$$, just wondering 'cause I'm getting a FF for my D44) in this statement gents??

 

[korda]

Yes, that is the first rear shaft I have ever broken. I've been very lucky considering where I've driven the thing. I am quite easy on the go pedal, but eventually something is going to go. This was an expensive jaunt, but all in all, Apple Valley was FUN. We had a good showing of LCJ's and it is so cool to see all the crazy rigs there. Weather was great and the campfires were very nice as well as the almost full moon in a clear sky. Jeff

Next time you're up there give a shout. I didn't make it but there were a ton of guys from our club up there. It'd be cool to meet some people. We'll have to plan a trip to Giblert sometime.

We could have relayed our 44 experiences first hand so then it wouldn't just be an intenet rumor and satisfy the CA guys. That said, in your situation I'd replace the broken ARB parts and get the alloy shafts. If you had to buy a whole new arb I'd be looking at other options.

 

[Goatman]

Jeff, like has already been said, you'll probably be fine for a long time with 30 spline alloy shafts. The only advantage to 33 spline shafts would be in a wedgie situation, but you should avoid wedgies anyway, even with 35 splines. Regarding the balance comment, and which shafts to get, I broke a rear D44 ring and pinion running 30 spline Dutchman shafts.

The way your's broke it sure looks like fatigue and breakage due to accumulative stress cracks, just like my Warn stub shafts did.

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

Here is a link to a few pictures of the damaged components:

http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeEN2jZq0btmIH

Jeff