Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
I see no reason why.
You could disco the CTS(@t-stat housing) and then make your own map without pcm interference. You will have a check engine light for the cts, though.
So I picked up a Thunderbird SC and have started fabbing up some brackets, mounts, and so forth. These SC's are set for 12 lbs of boost stock. Im going to have a larger pulley made(or find one) so I can run less boost(6-8lbs). The TB will be on the inlet side of the SC.
Other mods are small(bored TB, 99+ intake, no cat, flowmaster 40 series). 1998, AW4, lift, gears, 33's ect..
Ive been reading about how the Chrysler computer is not self adapting, and by adding more fuel pressure, bigger injectors, and ignition mods wont work. True?
Im seeing Kenne Bell does an Optimizer 2 computer reflash/relearn, worth the money? They also do a Boost-A-Pump, worth it over an FMU?
What to do with the single feed fuel line? No return needed?
What components will I need to make this thing run right? Larger injectors, more fuel pressure, colder plugs gapped correctly, timing retarded, piggyback computer(Apexi, Megasquirt, ect..), FMU, 3bar MAP sensor, ect..?
Any and all help would be appreciated. Id like to get this thing done in the next few months.
That SC makes 12 psi on a supercoupe. Even with the stock pulley, it'll make a different amount of boost on the jeep 4.0 Different motors, different induction flow, different sized crank pulley. I believe the crank pulley on the jeep is something like 7-1/4" on the grooves. If you use a stock pulley from a 94-95 supercoupe you'll make around 6-7 psi. If you use a pulley from a 89-93 SC you'll make about 8 psi.
Is the s/c a 94/95 model?
The M90 is the later version, the 94-95 model year.
Ill do the AEM comp, as it seems easier to mess/tune with, its cheaper, and there is someone else here using the same setup.
I'm really enjoying the build on this but, I thougt I would add my .02. While your still in the fabrication stage you might think about adding another idler pully so that the belt has more wrap around the pully. It's really needs to be more like the wrap on the alternator. It would suck to have gone through all this trouble to design and build this project and then be dealing with belt slippage issues.
www.witchhunter.com is your friend for injector&pressure ratings/changes. Those Tbirds are probably 36#@39psi, so they would flow 40.3#@49psi
It needs more preload from the spring. Most have an adjustment screw to do this. If not you might be able to swap the spring out for a thicker one.