bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
I would think that 5:56's would be too deep for 31's.
-
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overheating...
- Thread starter space_monkey
- Start date
- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
jawbreaker
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- san diego
It's geared just lower than 4:10 I think 4:56 but I don't really remember, the guy a 4wheel parts said it would be OK for 31" and I should go with that gearing if I was going to ever run bigger tires. That's why I am going to get 32" or 33" next go around.
space_monkey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- texas
So I've put the thermostat back in and everything seems OK now. No milkshake and temps stay in the 200 degree range (just under midpoint). Without the thermostat I was seeing a slow rise in temperature while driving long distances (over 25 minutes) on the highway.
I feel this is because coolant was flowing too quickly through the radiator and not given proper time to cool before being cycled back into the engine.
People will have conflicting views on this, but I found that thermostats are not simply on/off gates but rather a flow regulator, opening and closing based on the temp of the coolant. This is my finding, I'm sure others will have different opinions. This is just my understanding based on my issues.
Major things I have learned from troubleshooting my overheating 2001 XJ.
- If you are having cooling problems, and have the stock radiator. REPLACE IT with a new ALL-METAL 2 or 3 core version, do not replace with a stock rad. They are crap.
- If your coolant is orange, it is likely rust from a disintegrating water pump (mine had basically zero fins left on it when I pulled it. Check the water pump, it’s not that expensive or difficult to do. Get a new one, not a reman.
- Your hoses are probably fine, but it doesn't hurt to replace them either. You probably don't need the spring in the lower hose.
- Check (or replace) the thermostat, I replaced with the 195 degree stant superstat.
- Change the radiator cap and don't go cheap. I bought a new non-stant one and it blew off coolant at pressure. Get the stant, but NOT the one with the pressure blow-off valve, you don't need or want that.
- A lot of people mentioned fan clutches. I did replace mine but I don't feel as if it made any difference, perhaps the old ones were fine.
Also someone mentioned taking it to a mechanic. Yeah, if I had a need to get this thing up and running, I would have done that already, but I have other vehicles and like doing things on my own and with the help of the internet. I think anyone using this forum is of the same mindset.
I had no idea the thermostat was that important in keeping the jeep at operating temp. I'm still not convinced but I've been driving it around for a few days since thermostat replacement and there have been no issues. I really appreciate all the help I have received! Good luck to anyone troubleshooting overheating issues in their XJ!
I feel this is because coolant was flowing too quickly through the radiator and not given proper time to cool before being cycled back into the engine.
People will have conflicting views on this, but I found that thermostats are not simply on/off gates but rather a flow regulator, opening and closing based on the temp of the coolant. This is my finding, I'm sure others will have different opinions. This is just my understanding based on my issues.
Major things I have learned from troubleshooting my overheating 2001 XJ.
- If you are having cooling problems, and have the stock radiator. REPLACE IT with a new ALL-METAL 2 or 3 core version, do not replace with a stock rad. They are crap.
- If your coolant is orange, it is likely rust from a disintegrating water pump (mine had basically zero fins left on it when I pulled it. Check the water pump, it’s not that expensive or difficult to do. Get a new one, not a reman.
- Your hoses are probably fine, but it doesn't hurt to replace them either. You probably don't need the spring in the lower hose.
- Check (or replace) the thermostat, I replaced with the 195 degree stant superstat.
- Change the radiator cap and don't go cheap. I bought a new non-stant one and it blew off coolant at pressure. Get the stant, but NOT the one with the pressure blow-off valve, you don't need or want that.
- A lot of people mentioned fan clutches. I did replace mine but I don't feel as if it made any difference, perhaps the old ones were fine.
Also someone mentioned taking it to a mechanic. Yeah, if I had a need to get this thing up and running, I would have done that already, but I have other vehicles and like doing things on my own and with the help of the internet. I think anyone using this forum is of the same mindset.
I had no idea the thermostat was that important in keeping the jeep at operating temp. I'm still not convinced but I've been driving it around for a few days since thermostat replacement and there have been no issues. I really appreciate all the help I have received! Good luck to anyone troubleshooting overheating issues in their XJ!
space_monkey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- texas
To confirm, the jeep has been fine since my last post. I've taken it on some longer drives and the temp stays pegged at operating temp no matter how hard I run it. I still can't believe it was the thermostat. Perhaps before I put the thermostat back in there was also a bad seal on the thermostat housing causing a drop in pressure, which would heat the coolant. Oh well, I'm just happy it's working :roll:
bigalpha
Moderator
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
If there was a bad seal on the t-stat housing, you would have noticed leaking coolant.
space_monkey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- texas
Did a dye test this week per the suggestion here. Confirmed it is mixing. If anyone is wondering if their head is cracked, do a dye test. It was VERY obvious (green glow on the dipstick and under the valve cover). I guess synthetic oil doesn't milkshake like conventional.
I've been driving it this way for awhile so I'm sure the damage is done. My plan now is to just throw in some block sealant and see what happens :-(
I've been driving it this way for awhile so I'm sure the damage is done. My plan now is to just throw in some block sealant and see what happens :-(
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
It should not mater which oil it is. The milkshake should form due to what is in the coolant, which should act as a surfactant to dissolve one in the other, unless the dyno oils have a lot more detergent that the synthetics (which I guess is possible)?
space_monkey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- texas
Yeah, I thought the same thing too, and I've discussed this with a lot of people that know their auto repair (albeit they are not mechanics) who agreed that I should be seeing milkshake.
There is no denying the coolant in the oil with the UV test. I would strongly suggest to anyone who is having loss of coolant, but not seeing milkshake, to do the UV dye test. It confirmed the issue without a doubt for me.
There is no denying the coolant in the oil with the UV test. I would strongly suggest to anyone who is having loss of coolant, but not seeing milkshake, to do the UV dye test. It confirmed the issue without a doubt for me.
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space_monkey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- texas
Wanted to update that instead of doing the right thing and fixing the head, I dumped in a bottle of Barr's Head Gasket Fix (product #1111 http://www.barsproducts.com/1111.htm) after seeing a few forums where folks had used it with some success. My coolant looks like goldschläger now but so far I am not losing any more coolant, which is good. I'm going to monitor it for now and will post back after a couple of weeks to confirm if it is holding up.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
If you got to it early enough, it may buy you some time before you need to pull the head. I used a milder version on my son's 96 Taurus, and he put another 20,000 miles over a 12 month period on it before we did the heads. But it was a tiny leak, hairline cracks.
space_monkey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- texas
Seems like the sealant is working. I'm no longer losing coolant and the oil pressure looks better than it used to. I'm not sure how long this will last, but I am glad that it has held up for nearly a month now :yelclap:
space_monkey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- texas
Well, the sealant stopped holding and I noticed loss of radiator fluid again. Turned out to be a temporary fix, at best.