overheating...

[space_monkey]

So last Friday I'm driving home and i hear an odd noise. Kind of sounded like exhaust gas so i ignored it thinking the muffler was shot. Saw the temp spike up to 3/4 to full hot but then came back down.

Well, I take my exit and the jeep shuts down completely (like it totally lost power), pop the hood and sure enough, ive overheated and the whole engine is steaming :-(

I'm furious at this point so start it back up I drive it the extra 100 feet home, sputtering and popping.

Next morning I start it up and hook up the flush hose, just to refill the system, and hear how bad the engine sounds, because at this point i think its screwed. I start it up and, it idles fine, however there is a massive hole in the passenger side of the radiator!!

So now I'm not quite sure what to do. I know i suffered a MASSIVE overheating session (I drove a least a mile after hearing the suspicious noise which turned out to be my engine knocking). But, when I started it on the hose, it idles and revs just fine. No knocking or pinging or excessive lifter noise

I've idled it on the hose quite a bit and havent noticed any water in the oil. But since there is a massive hole in the radiator the system isnt pressurized (i just stick the hose in the top of the radiator fill).

The only way I have seen to check for a bad head is the pressure test, but I cant do that. Since it sounds fine and there isnt any water in the oil u guys think its worth it to go ahead and buy the 3-core radiator and drop it in? Just looking for thoughts and any advice or other checks I can do.

Thanks!

 

[ktwalker01]

me and you are sharing problems.

dont bother with the three core though. go for the 2 core csf from radiator barn.

 

[kdub41]

I have a 3 core and works just fine. I have a electric 14 inch fan that took place of my mech. fan utilizing the stock shroud. and does just fine runs at about 201 to 204.8 with out a/c then about 210 to 214 with a/c on hot day's (95 degrees or hotter) in city driving. I plan on replacing the 14 inch mech fan with a 99 cherokee aux fan. I also have a derale thermostatic controller with a steiger performance Inline radiator hose temperature sensor adapter for 1/8 or 3/8 NPT sensor. And this combo works great. I will let you guys know how the other fan works once i get it in there.

 

[space_monkey]

Is it worth buying the replacement radiator? I'm just wondering if there is any way to check if the head is cracked. Since the radiator is blown, the system isnt pressurized, so will water even enter the head? I imagine all the water blew out of the system before it overheated so I wouldn't have the milkshake just yet.

Running it on the hose it sounds fine. Oil looks good. Not sure what to do :-(

 

[space_monkey]

I went ahead and ordered the csf 2671 radiator. Here's hoping for the best...

 

[boncrshr]

Is it worth buying the replacement radiator? I'm just wondering if there is any way to check if the head is cracked. Since the radiator is blown, the system isnt pressurized, so will water even enter the head? I imagine all the water blew out of the system before it overheated so I wouldn't have the milkshake just yet.

Running it on the hose it sounds fine. Oil looks good. Not sure what to do :-(

I overheated mine once pretty good, 2000 XJ with 0331 casting and it turned out OK. My radiator blew a hole on the beach 4 miles away from the beach entrance. It took all 13 gallons of water we were carrying to make it back.....so, fingers are crossed for you.

 

[space_monkey]

Update:

I've installed a Ready Rad (Part#436020) from Advance auto. and a B&M 70268 external cooler (bypassing the radiator). The radiator is a bit larger than stock, so I had to modify the mech fan shroud a bit to get it in there.

It runs and drives well, oil pressure is good and the temps are well within normal range. For all intents and purposes, it appears to be back to life, BUT..

There is a bit of a sputting noise when getting on the gas from low rpm. High RPM is fine other than a lot of noise that sounds like whoosing air when really getting on it. I'm assuming this is from me cutting up the fan shroud but who knows.

Question... since I'm having the sputtering at low end I'm still not convinced I'm outta the woods yet. If my head is cracked, how long would it take until I see milkshake? Oil still looks good after a few drives.

 

[Ecomike]

I completely lost all my coolant once when the lower radiator hose blew off mine and I was on the freeway at 60 MPH in traffic when it happened. I never saw steam. But the dash gauge hit the far right side deep red zone before I could off the freeway and shut it down. This was my 1987, 287,000 mile 4.0 Wagoneer Jeep. That was two years ago, and it never missed a lick. It did absolutely no damage to the engine.

So last Friday I'm driving home and i hear an odd noise. Kind of sounded like exhaust gas so i ignored it thinking the muffler was shot. Saw the temp spike up to 3/4 to full hot but then came back down.

Well, I take my exit and the jeep shuts down completely (like it totally lost power), pop the hood and sure enough, ive overheated and the whole engine is steaming :-(

I'm furious at this point so start it back up I drive it the extra 100 feet home, sputtering and popping.

Next morning I start it up and hook up the flush hose, just to refill the system, and hear how bad the engine sounds, because at this point i think its screwed. I start it up and, it idles fine, however there is a massive hole in the passenger side of the radiator!!

So now I'm not quite sure what to do. I know i suffered a MASSIVE overheating session (I drove a least a mile after hearing the suspicious noise which turned out to be my engine knocking). But, when I started it on the hose, it idles and revs just fine. No knocking or pinging or excessive lifter noise

I've idled it on the hose quite a bit and havent noticed any water in the oil. But since there is a massive hole in the radiator the system isnt pressurized (i just stick the hose in the top of the radiator fill).

The only way I have seen to check for a bad head is the pressure test, but I cant do that. Since it sounds fine and there isnt any water in the oil u guys think its worth it to go ahead and buy the 3-core radiator and drop it in? Just looking for thoughts and any advice or other checks I can do.

Thanks!

 

[Ecomike]

Based on your reported data so far (your earliest post, sorry had not read all the posts), I would suspect a small leak dropping pressure in the system as the heat builds up at idle, like a hose leak at the connections, or a water pump seal leak, that is too small to see yet.

You can get a free rental (deposit required) pressure tester and swap out the radiator cap for the tester and pump the cooling system up to about 15 PSI and then wait ten minutes to see if the pressure holds. If the pressure drops, you have a leak, and that leak(s) is the problem! They also rent head gasket leak testers that set in the radiator opening, cap off while the engine runs. It uses a color change fluid that changes color if exhaust gasses are leaking out of the radiator opening.

Yours does not sound like a head gasket (on your first post, but the last posts, blown up radiator, sounds like the head gasket did fail!!!). A HG leak would be worse under load, not at idle, in many cases, and is usually visible on the spark plug tips.

I always replace all the hoses when I do a radiator replacement. Sounds like yours WAS past due for hoses at least (on your first post).

You might never see a milkshake. Head gasket leaks have many types. Many different symptoms are possible. Gas in the radiator, with out any other signs is just one type. If that was a two year old radiator that blew a huge hole in it, that sounds like a typical 0331 (IIRC) 2001 head gasket leak!!!! A 2 year old radiator should NOT blow a huge hole in itself, unless there has a massive head gasket leak. I had a blown head gasket that had no signs of a blown head gasket except for a real bad idle. The thin seal between #4 & #5 cylinders had failed. No overheating, no oil or coolant contamination, but compression was down to 40 PSI on #4 and #5. I used a compression tester to verify it. Another free rental tool at many parts stores.

 

[space_monkey]

Hey Ecomike,

Thanks for reading through the comments and providing your feedback! Now that I've got the radiator done I agree it is time to pressure test it because I feel that something just isn't right. I took it on a longer drive today and the temp needle spiked a bit over half again. When I got to where I was going I saw bubbles in the overflow so it was getting pretty hot.

When I got back home I let it idle for like 20 minutes to see if the temp would go down, and it did a little bit, sitting at just under half on the temp gauge.

I cant help but wonder if I'm having the hose collapsing issue since there is no spring in the hose. But still, I've replaced the entire cooling system and its still getting hot.. its now getting beyond my understanding of how cars work lol. Maybe it is time for a new one :-(

 

[Ecomike]

I seriously doubt it is a hose issue. Really sounds like the head is cracked or the head gasket is gone. That particular head casting on the 2001 is notorious for cracking! I think there may have even been a recall on that head casting at one time. The bubbles in the overflow is a dead give away of a cracked head or head gasket leak!

I replaced the gasket and had the head reworked in a machine shop on my 89 jeep. First one I ever did. Ran me about $200 plus my time. If you need a head, add about $100 to that for a core charge. Hardest part was lifting the head out, and reinstalling it by hand only. Took three of us to man handle it.

FWIW, I do not have the wire spring in any of mine. If the radiator is not plugged up, the hose should not collapse IMHO!

 

[fallacist]

I know this is blasphemy on these forums, but I would have taken it to a professional a while ago. They wouldn't have to do the work for you, but at least someone who can get hands on with it and tell you what needs to be fixed.

 

[jawbreaker]

I am having over heating issues with my 98 xj also. It is a little different than some of the ones I've read alread but not much. My jeep runs at 195-205 during average driving but when I hit the grades it gets up to 220-230 then as soon as I reach flat road it goes back down. I have a new 2row radiator,new water pump,thermostat,radiator cap, temp sending unit and fan clutch. I was thinking about installing a tranny cooler and a 3 row radiator and maybe an electric fan but just don't want to waste more money. The radiator shop said the 3 row should help but they may be trying to sell me something else. Another shop I took it to check for a cracked head and it checked out OK. Someone in an earlier post said to use a csf 2 row instead of a 3 row can you explain the difference.

Any help will be appriciated.
Ron

 

[bigalpha]

If running hot on an incline I would say one of two things: 1. Your trans is running hot or 2. You are losing coolant flow through the rad; maybe by a collapsing lower hose.

 

[Ecomike]

If running hot on an incline I would say one of two things: 1. Your trans is running hot or 2. You are losing coolant flow through the rad; maybe by a collapsing lower hose.

I am going to stick my neck out here, and suggest that a collapsing lower hose is not possible if there is good flow through the radiator, and at least 8 psi, 200 F coolant in the system. IF the hose is collapsing, I suggest the radiator is the problem, as it would need to be clogged to allow such a pressure differential needed for the hose to collapse. There would also need to air in the system as well!!!!!!

 

[Ecomike]

I am having over heating issues with my 98 xj also. It is a little different than some of the ones I've read alread but not much. My jeep runs at 195-205 during average driving but when I hit the grades it gets up to 220-230 then as soon as I reach flat road it goes back down. I have a new 2row radiator,new water pump,thermostat,radiator cap, temp sending unit and fan clutch. I was thinking about installing a tranny cooler and a 3 row radiator and maybe an electric fan but just don't want to waste more money. The radiator shop said the 3 row should help but they may be trying to sell me something else. Another shop I took it to check for a cracked head and it checked out OK. Someone in an earlier post said to use a csf 2 row instead of a 3 row can you explain the difference.

Any help will be appriciated.
Ron

Check for an exhaust leak blowing on the block, and check for a restricted exhaust. Also check to see if the TC is actually locking up or not. Is it all stock, gearing and tires, lift?

 

[yardape]

Buy a new water pump, not a re-built.

Advance/IdiotZone/PepBoys sell the same crap. I prefer NAPA for my parts.

Ditto

 

[yardape]

me and you are sharing problems.

dont bother with the three core though. go for the 2 core csf from radiator barn.

I have the CSF 3 core and it resolved an overheating problem. I would recommend highly since you've tried everything else.

 

[Ecomike]

I have the CSF 3 core and it resolved an overheating problem. I would recommend highly since you've tried everything else.

My 3 core upgrade kept mine cool, in spite of the exhaust leak blowing on the engine block (which I later discovered and fixed).

 

[jawbreaker]

I geared it with 5:56 and I'm running 31s, I am going to run 32 or 33s next time I need tires. I had it in the tranny shop not to long ago and he went through it really good and said it was fine. I just had it in the muffler shop because the cat was bad and I thought that might help but it didn't. I am going to take it to a different radiator shop tomarrow and get some more suggestions but right now I'm leaning towards a 3 row and a tranny cooler, I figure I should just have them both installed at the same time.