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ORO U-Turn Steering

corbinafly said:
They (99xjache and 91 Jeep Project) meant to say tie rod is upside down or backwards. Not the drag link.

Kyung

U sure about that? The tie rod is straight (no bends), so it can't be "backwards", and the TRE's can only mount under the "knuckle" because that's the way the tapered holes are drilled.
 
meatplow5150 said:
U sure about that? The tie rod is straight (no bends), so it can't be "backwards", and the TRE's can only mount under the "knuckle" because that's the way the tapered holes are drilled.
Well if that's the way the tapered holes are drilled than I think the kit sucks donkey balls.:looser:

Kyung
 
corbinafly said:
Well if that's the way the tapered holes are drilled than I think the kit sucks donkey balls.:looser:

Kyung

Well, you certainly are entitled to your opinion... :rolleyes:

I was less concerned about moving the tie rod up an inch or so, and more concerned with correcting the horrible steering characteristics of the Rusty's junk with something that wasn't going to take tons of time and fabrication. (It took me about an hour to install in the oven that is my garage)
The tie rod is mounted utk because otk the ps tre would interfere with the one on the drag link.

It works for me. If you don't like it, then go with something else. I was just trying to provide some hands-on information on it since I wasn't able to find any here before buying it.
:peace:
 
The Ackerman principle is very important.

The ORO U-turn setup will give you bad Ackerman, scrubbing tires, giving poor handling and bending tie-rods whenever it can.

Sorry to spoil your day :wave1:
 
I bought a jeep that has this steering on it, the ackerman is *terrible*. I need to look for a better solution to replace it with. ;)
 
I bought a jeep that has this steering on it, the ackerman is *terrible*. I need to look for a better solution to replace it with. ;)

How did you notice the Ackerman was bad? Is it something you can feel while driving?
 
I can feel it.

I can hear the tires squeel on every corner, all of the time, no matter what.

Jeep leaves marks on the concrete like this:

2012-03-05_17-49-59_889.jpg



You can't really tell in the picture, but this is a TON of rubber on the ground - after mearly making a 90* turn, there's enough to sweep it up and have a palm full of rubber.

2012-03-05_17-50-07_78.jpg


2012-03-05_17-50-12_391.jpg


2012-03-05_17-50-16_972.jpg



This will go before I buy new tires, which will be very soon. :)
 
My ackerman is all effed up because I have the diff rotated for good pinion angle but the c's are in the stock location. This should not work hardly at all but it does. The next axle I build will have the center section rotated for good pinion angle and also stock steering geometry.
 
Are you guys 100% positive that its not something else in the alignment? I know this kit messes with the ackerman but I drove an xj with this setup and it seemed to drive fine.... for a lifted and beat to hell xj. Not saying you guys are wrong but just something to think of, the few people I've met with this setup seem to love it.

I personally was going to run this kit but the price tag is a complete rip off... JCR OTK has treated me well ever since!
 
I bought a jeep that has this steering on it, the ackerman is *terrible*. I need to look for a better solution to replace it with. ;)

currie is the bolt-on solution.

wj steering and the panhard setup you guys did on the KOH rig is the non-bolt on option.
 
While I've never actually run the Currie steering, I'm afraid of it not drooping far enough without binding the TRE at the pitman.

For me, I'm not really worried about a bolt on solution..
 
While I've never actually run the Currie steering, I'm afraid of it not drooping far enough without binding the TRE at the pitman.

For me, I'm not really worried about a bolt on solution..

the pitman TRE is built with an offset in it to favor more droop. and if you need to, it can be put into a shop press for even more of a bend.

I run 4" lift with 7" of droop and it does not bottom out.
 
cal, it sounds like you may have too much reverse ackerman going on there. with the added angles put on with that bolt on thing, you have increased the amount of leverage. the inside wheel is pulling the outside wheel too far in when turning. i think if you remove that product, you should see a big difference. this is something i was concerned with about the wj knuckle swap, but have never actually seen the difference of the xj and wj knuckles. the length and amount of angle the knuckle ends have is what affects ackerman. too much angle (away from the pivot center) will give you too much reverse ackerman. which is exactly what that product does.
 
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Its not a problem with the WJ swap - you're only moving the pivot point for the drag link, the tie rod is pretty close to factory.

The knuckles are drilled out to mount the U-Turn kit, so can't just bolt stock stuff in. Maybe I'll gather some parts for a WJ swap, or find a fresh pair of knuckles.. who knows.
 
well if you do find more wj stuff, let me know. lol. though i have yet to search for it, i hear it is not easy to find. were are you getting it from?
 
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