Oil Filter L-adapter removal

[Blaine B.]

It is a T60 not a T55. Even when using a T60 with a 3/8" breaker I couldn't get mine to budge. And it just seems to leak more every month. Seems like it needs to be heated up but I am worried, once heated up the existing orings will definitely be finished, and if I still cannot get it off I'll have an even larger leak......

 

[5-90]

They're all tough - FSM torque for RENIX is 75 pound-feet (I don't know why, especially with the hole down the length of the screw and it being cross-drilled a bit away from the head. I've been torquing them to 35-40 pound-feet without incident.)

Best way to break them loose, I've found, is to just get a wrench on it and gradually lean on the thing until it starts moving. Make no sudden motion, because it's a great way to snap the damned thing off (then you've got a bigger problems than O-rings leaking...)

 

[Blaine B.]

It seems like mine is "slightly" rounded off. Seems like I can get plenty of grip for tightening the bolt but not enough for loosening it. Like it won't keep itself straight in for loosening but it could for tightning. I don't know what to do so I just left it for now and continued driving along. But it is getting worse!

 

[XJ00RHD]

The idea is to use the adapter I've linked to in order to reduce the clearance issue and actually be able to get a wrench on there without dicking around with torx bits in the future.
Just for reference, the O-rings are not reusable (per a 35 yr certified anti-chrysler mechanic's strong recommendations)
He also has a block sitting on his workbench I'm going to hustle up to measure, so hopefully I can post back w/ specs.
Thanks guys!

 

[XJ00RHD]

Turns out everything I have in hand (the mechanic had an elbow just sitting on his workbench from an HO) is threaded with 3/4-16
The elbow itself, both sides of the 'e-connector', and the 'e-bolt'
Now, to do it!
After I doublecheck space in the engine bay, talk about placement w/ my mechanic, and make sure he doesn't think I'm crazy.
I'll post back with results unless something makes me wuss out.
Later!

 

[5-90]

Turns out everything I have in hand (the mechanic had an elbow just sitting on his workbench from an HO) is threaded with 3/4-16
The elbow itself, both sides of the 'e-connector', and the 'e-bolt'
Now, to do it!
After I doublecheck space in the engine bay, talk about placement w/ my mechanic, and make sure he doesn't think I'm crazy.
I'll post back with results unless something makes me wuss out.
Later!

Had half a hunch - I just need to verify it for all variants and years.

Pix, please!

 

[92XJPortageWI]

It seems like mine is "slightly" rounded off. Seems like I can get plenty of grip for tightening the bolt but not enough for loosening it. Like it won't keep itself straight in for loosening but it could for tightning. I don't know what to do so I just left it for now and continued driving along. But it is getting worse!

use some valve lapping compound on the torx bit, a trick i picked up doing alignments and brake work

 

[Blaine B.]

What does that do?

 

[5-90]

What does that do?

Lapping compound is very mildly abrasive - I'm guessing he uses it to get a better "grip" between the bit and the screw head, making it a bit less likely to "cam out" once you start putting a load on it.

 

[Blaine B.]

Maybe I should try that sometime. But I think heat is the game. Although all I have access to at home is a small propane torch; I think oxy acy would do a much better job. I am thinking the oil dried orings are causing the bolt to stick. I have tried with the motor warm and still no bolt loosening.

 

[XJ00RHD]

I have no pictures to add as of yet, all of the components are in the article linked to in the OP.
Once I have use of another car (my sister is going away for the summer, bwahahaha) I'll tackle this... with a small helping of other prep-for-long-distance-driving fixes and avec professional assistance so I don't blow anything up
Once I do, I'll post, and pm you (5-90) re: the parts.
~A

 

[XJ00RHD]

Alas, my mechanic talked me out of it until such time as I go to add an oil cooler, so no parts are available.
However, I should be sure all my questions are answered from the OP.
Yes, you can pull that locator pin out of the block.
The threads in the block the e-bolt threads into, the e-connector, and the oil filter are all the same, 3/4-16
The seal surface on the block is the same as on the elbow, 2-1/2".
So you could easily use PermaCool PN 2791 and an HO e-connector to make the basis for a filter relocation/oil cooler project.
Sorry for the disappointment, but thanks for the help.

 

[tkjeeper]

interesting post. my L adapter came off without incident, and with all my research the torx bolt was still not what everyone said, T70 maybe, but I could understand the idea behind a remote system, although I'm not sure a standard one wouldn't be fine. I practically have to remove my starter every time I want to change my oversized KN oil filter. PITA! On the list of things to do.
BTW I ended up cutting off a T70 and putting a ratcheting wrench directly on the T70 and took some force but by no means was I really leaning on it. It's a 93 HO.