Oil Filter Adapter Torx Bolt

[white96xj]

I know that the oil filter adapter on a 96 XJ is a T-60 torx bolt. However, does anyone know whether or not the T-60 bolt is a reverse thread bolt? Just want to make sure that I'm turning it the right way.

 

[bajacalal]

Its a normally threaded bolt. If youre finding it ungodly tight on there, thats normal. I believe, but am not sure, that threads are an NPT (pipe) size. What I don't understand is why they used a torx fitting!? I understand there isin't much clearance there but torx sockets are usually longer than hex ones. Why diddn't they do this.

I welded my torx bit to the bolt so it would be easier. Thats a write up about it.

 

[MAP]

Man that's one clean engine compartment... did you do some cleaning for the picture?

Where did you get the o-rings for the adapter?

Thanks,
MAP

 

[bajacalal]

Jeep dealerships should carry the O-rings, $5 (shouldn't be much more) you get a baggie w/ the 3 different sized rings.

Thats what EVERYBODY says about my engine bay. I hose it now and then, just plain water no soap just a high pressure nozzle. I just don't like to wrench on a car thats terribly greasy. In Carlsbad on State St. (in case you in N.Cty) theres a self service wash where you can do your engine-w/ a special degreaser soap too- for $2.

LOL, no I diddn't clean it for the pic. That cap and wire set is pretty new though. Actually, its cleaner now than in that pic, because the oil isin't leaking.

 

[RichP]

Make sure that that inside of the torx bolt is clean so the socket is going all the way to the bottom, use some q tips and solvent. I don't have a T65 handy right now so if it's a 3/8 inch socket use a 1/2>3/8 adapter and a 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar. We rebuilt a TJ this past winter and had to remove like 80+ torx bolts, I would set the socket in after cleaning it out, give it two good whacks with a dead blow to seat it and the put the 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar on there, did not strip a single one using that method.

 

[MAP]

bajacalal,
I live in the South Bay area of Los Angeles area.
I haven't wanted to spray water in that area for fear of getting moisture into the starter and various connectors. I've scrubbed off what I could occasionally on that side of the engine but it's been a while since I did it.
Right now I have oil drops coming from the oil filter.. and that side of the block has a layer of caked on oily dust.
I sure hope it's the oil filter adapter o-rings ONLY that needs replacing. I was changing the oil filter on my transmission 2 weeks ago and noticed a drop of oil at the oil filter adapter, at the transmission housing right under the rear seal and noticed that the drips must fall on the exhaust pipe and the transmission pan as the XJ is moving because I found streaks and engine oil in those areas.
The strange thing is that I don't see any drips on the floor where I park.
My engine has 120,000miles and loses about half a quart of oil every 3000miles or so.. Maybe a lot of it is coming from the dripping. I though it was burning it.

We'll see. Thanks for the suggestions RichP.
One question, is it a T60 or T65 that's on the adapter? Mine's a 99XJ.
Maybe I'll just get a set of the larger torx sizes. I hate where they put these things. Why not just use regular hex head bolts?

MAP

 

[bajacalal]

Don't worry about getting it wet. The stuff on that side of the engine shouldn't really mind, just make sure youre distributor is good and sealed tight. What you don't want getting wet are the sensors over by the intake like the TPS. I try not to get them wet at all.

I don't know why more people don't do it though esp. in areas prone to rust.
It only takes like 2 extra minutes and that including the engine, tranny, front suspension, undercarraige and rear.

Defenitely make sure the torx hole is clean, too bad there isin't a hole lot of room in there to get it tapped in and seated (the torx bit). Mine was stripped already (prev. owner) so that was bad already and it was so damn tight. If it wasn't already stripped I might not have welded it but it was so bad.
Working good now.

I don't think its t65 that sounds too large.

 

[MAP]

How did you guys manage to remove the torx bold on the filter adapter?
I can barely get the T-60 socket/bit in there, the end rests against a bolt on the frame. It's made by Lesly.
There is NO space to put a ratchet in there.
It's almost as if they had intended that this only be remove with the engine out of the vehicle.

I tried putting the T-60 in the screw head, rabbed it with vise grips and tap the thing but the vise grips just slip on the T-60 socket/bit.

The only thing I can think of doing is cutting off the T-60 and removing the end that goes into a 1/2 ratchet then grinding down the end into a square shape and somehow try to turn that.

Any ideas?
I know many of you have done this before.

Thanks,
MAP

 

[bajacalal]

Actually now that you mention it, the torx socket I picked up at Napa was too long. I cut something like 1/4" or 1/2" off with a cut off wheel. Just enough to make it fit.

 

[semisynth]

When I did mine on my '94 I had to grind down the torx socket, buy a cheap 3/8” breaker bar and grind it down enough to fit also. It sucked but now I have a custom tool just for taking out that damn bolt.

 

[MAP]

Thanks for that feedback guys.
It looks like I'm going to have to do something similar.
The only other option I can see is to put use a jack to hold up the engine and remove the engine mount and support bracket that's on the frame. That might give enough clearance but seems like a lot of work.

I'm probably going to try grinding the socket and removing the bolt on the support bracket.

Thanks,
MAP

 

[RichP]

You can try this, true value sells a a torx set, the torx bits are in a standard socket that fits the hex bar stock they used to form the bit. The bit stock is just pushed in to the socket and can be removed [just look at a sears craftsman hex type socket], if you remove the insert so that the socket itself is not there you could use a ratchet type box wrench or box wrench to turn the stock.
Those lisle bits are just one piece forged and are junk, I've broken god knows how many when we first started tearing down my sons TJ's in preperation for rebuilding it. Then I bought a Powerbuilt set from truevalue, have not managed to break one yet and they were like $20 for a set of 6, T40, T45, T47, T50 in 3/8" drive and a T55 and T60 in 1/2" drive sockets.

 

[MAP]

Well RichP, there's no True Value stores around here. But I believe Kragen/Checker's carries Powerbuilt tools and there's plenty of those stores.
Size T60 Torx are not that easy to find.

Here's a picture of the bit in place at a slight angle. There's only about 2 inches of clearance between the filter adapter bolt and the motor mount bracket that is attached to the frame. The bit/socket fits but that's it.

That's not much space. If I can find the type of socket that you mention I might have a chance. This job is getting postponed until I can find or fabricate the right tool.

Thank you everyone.

MAP

 

[Yucca-Man]

MAP - there's no picture with that post. You can pull the Torx head out of the socket and use a (3/8"?) wrench or two around it to turn it...in theory at least. I tried it a few times this summer before throwing it all back in the toolbox for when I feel more like farting around with it.

 

[johnnyc]

Here's my "special" tool. T60 bit with a 12 mm wrench.

 

[Yucca-Man]

^ That's what I was getting at...thanks.

 

[MAP]

I was at Pep Boys and found a socket with the torx bit that I could press out for $3.99... Then I looked to the right and found something even better and already perfect for the purpose.

It was a set of allen type wrench but with torx bit ends. The length between the torx end and the bend was just under 2 inches which is just enough to fit.
The other end is just under 5 inches long.
It was $13.99, but for $10 bucks more it's worth it and they might come in handy later.

For those interested, the brand is Performance Tool # W1319.
It's a 6 piece set, T-40, T-45, T-47, T-50, T-55, & of course the important T-60.
I tried sticking in the bolt hole this afternoon and it's perfect with a little space to spare.
I'll just put a tube or pipe on the end for a lever arm or tap it with a hammer to loosen it.
I didn't want to mess with it today.
If I figure out how to post pics I'll add some of the tool and how it fits.

Thanks,
MAP

 

[MAP]

OK, I figured out how to post pics..

Here are pics of the gap on my 99XJ between the oil filter adapter bolt and the frame. Another one of the Lesly tool barely fitting and the third pic of the tool I found today and I'm sure will work perfect for this. I'll post later if I'm successful or to let you know if I snapped the tool...

MAP

2 INCH GAP

Lesly tool in the GAP

T-60 Allen type wrench

 

[white96xj]

Finally got the bolt out of the oil filter adapter and was able to change the three gaskets. I removed the bolt in front of the t-60 torx bolt, looks to be on the frame rail/frame of the jeep, to give myself clearance to work in the tight space. I actually used a grinding wheel to shorten up the t-60 bolt as well to get some additional working room. I had to crank on it a couple of times but finally got it to move.

 

[bajacalal]

In response to RichP, it happened that my socket was the same way, there is a torx ended hex bit stuck inside a socket so I tried that (last changed the seals a month ago) but then I just could not get enough leverage with my wrench to loosen it. My wrench was short and the bolt was so tight, ungodly tight. Its a good idea but I just couldn't make it work. I had to put the hex bit back into the socket (after shortening it) and use a breaker bar. I was very frustrated at putting that much effort into what should be a simple job. Thats why I decided to slowly eliminate all torx from the jeep. Last sunday I rebuilt my throttle body (replaced TPS, IAC and cleaned it out, new gasket) and replaced all the torx screws.

On a side note, why did jeep use thread locker on the TPS? And, why did they use 3 different thread sizes for the TB electronics? WTF.