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oil blow by problem

Hey blk88 - I understand times are tough. That's why you shouldn't waste a dime on "hope in a can" or anything else except maybe a basic catch-can along with an oil hog to keep things under control and soaked up until you can repair the obviously worn metal inside the engine.

Think about it - how on earth can a liquid replace worn metal? It can't but it sure sounds good if it did, right?

I know the feeling too well - following a run on the highway, taking an exit and having a cloud of smoke to follow. 9/10 times - too much or excessive blow-by.

1/10 times it may be the differential blowing a seal but that smells very different and usually collects on the rear glass too.

I've got over 300k miles on my '89 XJ and most of that I put on the past 11 years - I've seen my share of various symptoms! Good luck!!!
 
So I got the "EnValve" last night and installed it. I will post pictures once I get a good highway drive in and make sure it works as it claims. First off, the man that invented it is now a kind 70 year old man with cancer in remission and sells these out of his home. I guess he's been selling it for over 10 years and not one has been returned. My XJ has an 8" lift and is on 37's. He tried to look at the motor and had to get a chair to stand on to see stuff. He wanted to do everythinkg to get it installed before I left. He immediatly said; "Ah, crap! You got one of those systems without a PCV and was a stupid design to begin with." Then he said; "Over the years I've seen a few Jeep where guys actually made a bottle to collect the oil and dump it back in. That's the second dumbest thing I've ever seen." I was laughing pretty hard (not to offend anyone, I was just about to do it too). Anyways...he tried to help me get it all installed, but I needed a 3/8" vacuum/fuel line and 3/8" tee to get it all together and he didn't have that stuff. So on my way home I pick up the needed items and installed it. My first obsevation was I had A LOT more vacuum when removing the oil filler cap. I can hear and feel the vacuum being created by the valve. I never had that before. With installing of the valve you eliminate the breather line to the air box so no more oil in the filter. Saturday I'm going on a long highway road trip and see how it works. I will post up my results with pictures. So far it looks promising. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If this works all you guys with a catch bottle can get rid of all that.
 
blk88 said:
So I got the "EnValve" last night and installed it. I will post pictures once I get a good highway drive in and make sure it works as it claims. First off, the man that invented it is now a kind 70 year old man with cancer in remission and sells these out of his home. I guess he's been selling it for over 10 years and not one has been returned. My XJ has an 8" lift and is on 37's. He tried to look at the motor and had to get a chair to stand on to see stuff. He wanted to do everythinkg to get it installed before I left. He immediatly said; "Ah, crap! You got one of those systems without a PCV and was a stupid design to begin with." Then he said; "Over the years I've seen a few Jeep where guys actually made a bottle to collect the oil and dump it back in. That's the second dumbest thing I've ever seen." I was laughing pretty hard (not to offend anyone, I was just about to do it too). Anyways...he tried to help me get it all installed, but I needed a 3/8" vacuum/fuel line and 3/8" tee to get it all together and he didn't have that stuff. So on my way home I pick up the needed items and installed it. My first obsevation was I had A LOT more vacuum when removing the oil filler cap. I can hear and feel the vacuum being created by the valve. I never had that before. With installing of the valve you eliminate the breather line to the air box so no more oil in the filter. Saturday I'm going on a long highway road trip and see how it works. I will post up my results with pictures. So far it looks promising. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If this works all you guys with a catch bottle can get rid of all that.
Click to expand...

Yea, LOL, I always thought the catch bottle was a bit ummmmm NUTS myself but who am I to stifle innovation ? pulled out of the butt design ? I always wondered why no one tried a mini-centrifuge, you know, spin it up and sling all the oil to the out side for later recovery...
 
Hope in a can does work - I ran Marvel Mystery Oil to free a clogged lifter until I discovered a very slight head gasket leak was mixing antifreeze in my oil. I had added Water Wetter, which may have caused the problem, and sure hid it as it acted as a mixer hiding the A/F. After about 800 miles the oil was loaded up enough to clog the lifter and it was tap city until I changed it.

Water glass sealer - more hope in a can - fixed it. It's been 5k and no more problem.

I'm using a 60's era Mr. Gasket open valve cover breather from a Chevy I pulled out of the trash at work two years back. The only fumes I get are from hiway speed window down runs. The valve cover is a bit oily - but that pic of a 70's era cap is great - I can plumb that back into the stock cleaner and voila.

Be especially careful about anything that looks like a PVC stuck into the front cover - Jeep never used a PVC on the 4.0. Some previous owners don't have a clue and install one, leaving the next guy to chase blown seals and gaskets for 5 years until they figure it out. Please, don't ask how I know.
 
blk88 said:
IT CAN'T BE!!! I just replaced my motor 1.5 years ago with a used pulled motor about a year ago for the same reason. I was told the compression #'s were 140+/- on all cylinders. I'm worried that it might be true. I think I'm going to need to get a remanufactured motor. I'm running 4.88's and at highway speeds the rpm's are about 2.5k to 2.75k. My speed is about 65 -70mph. and I top out about there. I guess the used motor is tired and can't maintain that rpm for that length of time???
Click to expand...

Check your CCV system or Lines again. If it is a renix. Jeep will replace all these lines for $80.00. If it is not a renix (92 and newer) check the PCV Valve and hoses. After time buildup can get in the lines and create a restriction in the positive crankcase pressure, creating too much and it blows into your airfilter. That is if the rings are good. If you have a minimum of 98lbs per cylinder, this is not the problem and go back to the PCV or CCV system. The only diff between the two is the CCV is a metered system and the PCV is not. ASE Tech and master certified.
 
gajeepxj said:
Check your CCV system or Lines again. If it is a renix. Jeep will replace all these lines for $80.00. If it is not a renix (92 and newer) check the PCV Valve and hoses. After time buildup can get in the lines and create a restriction in the positive crankcase pressure, creating too much and it blows into your airfilter. That is if the rings are good. If you have a minimum of 98lbs per cylinder, this is not the problem and go back to the PCV or CCV system. The only diff between the two is the CCV is a metered system and the PCV is not. ASE Tech and master certified.
Click to expand...

gajeepxj-

I have replaced the entire CCV system including the CCV gromet. Actually it was the "Renix Expert" at the Jeep dealer that did it. The week after it was replaced I did a test run...puked oil. As I had previously stated I have checked my CCV gromet regularly to ensure it wasn't clogged. All the vacuum lines are clean. I've been struggling with this issue for about 2 -3 years. The compression on all cylinders is around 120. I couldn't figure it out. Compression is good, an entire new vaccum system venting VC area done, still puking oil. I got tired of it so when I saw the EnValve and found it was $40 and he'd give me my money back if I wasn't happy, I decided what the heck. Like I said in my past post, I now have vacuum in the VC area, which I never had before. Now there's now way oil can get in the air box and if you look at most VC's there is oil seeping from the VC cap, breather line and CCV gromet. Since I've installed the valve all those locations are oil free. Hopefully the VC will stay clean too. So far this is looking promising. I just re-read my post and is sounds a little commercial-ish. Sorry if it does. I'm just a little excited about this working for me.
 
The higher RPM's are the giveaway, oil is not returning fast enough to the pan and building up in the head area where the CCV tips are being submerged. Open the returns and it won't matter if there is too much pressure from worn rings. Worn valve seals on the other hand would probably cause misting in the valve cover area that would be pulled out by the CCV.
 
maybe i missed reading this, but cant you take the renix valve cover off and cut the ccv towers down so they dont reach so far down on the head?
 
89xj said:
maybe i missed reading this, but cant you take the renix valve cover off and cut the ccv towers down so they dont reach so far down on the head?
Click to expand...
Yea, I think I suggested that at the beginning.
 
Have you tried flushing the engine with ATF? This summer I put 5 qts of ATF in the engine and drove normal for about 3 days, before changing back to 10w30. When I changed the oil I had a lot of crap come out with the atf.
 
WaXJ_Skier said:
Have you tried flushing the engine with ATF? This summer I put 5 qts of ATF in the engine and drove normal for about 3 days, before changing back to 10w30. When I changed the oil I had a lot of crap come out with the atf.
Click to expand...

You should have bought every lottery ticket you could afford, with that kind of luck you would have hit max wins on every one of them...
 
So glad to hear you fixed it with the ENvalve.

blk88 said:
gajeepxj-

I have replaced the entire CCV system including the CCV gromet. Actually it was the "Renix Expert" at the Jeep dealer that did it. The week after it was replaced I did a test run...puked oil. As I had previously stated I have checked my CCV gromet regularly to ensure it wasn't clogged. All the vacuum lines are clean. I've been struggling with this issue for about 2 -3 years. The compression on all cylinders is around 120. I couldn't figure it out. Compression is good, an entire new vaccum system venting VC area done, still puking oil. I got tired of it so when I saw the EnValve and found it was $40 and he'd give me my money back if I wasn't happy, I decided what the heck. Like I said in my past post, I now have vacuum in the VC area, which I never had before. Now there's now way oil can get in the air box and if you look at most VC's there is oil seeping from the VC cap, breather line and CCV gromet. Since I've installed the valve all those locations are oil free. Hopefully the VC will stay clean too. So far this is looking promising. I just re-read my post and is sounds a little commercial-ish. Sorry if it does. I'm just a little excited about this working for me.
Click to expand...
 
So it has been a few days now and an 80 mile highway trip and the valve seems to have done the trick. To intall it with the Renix motor it replaces the CCV gromet and ties into the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster. The breather line from the VC to the air box goes away and gets filled with a blank gromet. Here are the installed pictures.
I haven't removed the vacuum line for the VC breather just in case for some reason I wanted to go back. I will be removing it soon. For the motors with a PCV it simply replaces the PCV.

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm192/blk88/My Jeep/IMG_4469.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm192/blk88/My Jeep/IMG_4470.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm192/blk88/My Jeep/IMG_4471.jpg
 
I'm really intrigued now! Where does the air enter the crankcase to replace the air/oil vopour removed through the new valve? It seems that if you're pulling out the old stuff, it's gotta pull fresh air back in from somewhere. If the inlet line is blocked off from the airbox, doesn't that create a vacuum that will eventually suck a gasket inward, or suck unfiltered air into the crankcase through other areas (dipstick tube, dirtributor mount, etc)
 
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