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NP203/205 Test fit...

Your tack welds dont look very hot. What kinda Current do you have on your welder, that is some thick plate. You should take a grinder and make a nice valley where you want to weld it, this will help you get good penetration.

Looks good, but if you tabs are cold welded and snap that would suck.
 
ashmanjeepxj said:
Your tack welds dont look very hot. What kinda Current do you have on your welder, that is some thick plate. You should take a grinder and make a nice valley where you want to weld it, this will help you get good penetration.

Looks good, but if you tabs are cold welded and snap that would suck.
I actually did grind the tabs at an angle on the grinder. Those were done with a 220volt Lincoln 175 on setting e and about 4 wire speed. I think its .35 wire too. Don't worry this will go to a pro that has a machine to weld that plate solid. I let the pros do my really important welding. That is why my friend is helping me with the cage. That way I can learn about my bender and how to weld the stuff up together.
 
vetteboy said:
He's saying that if the driveline twist is limited by the trans mount bushings instead of the motor mount bushings, it puts a lot more strain on the bellhousing.

/
very true I broke my bell housing 2 days after putting in a rubber trans mount when i didnt remember I had black urathane motor mounts
 
Welded the lates to the frame this past weekend. Be kind I know my welds look like shiat!

203-205crossmember011.jpg


203-205crossmember010.jpg


These actually look decent.

203-205crossmember009.jpg

You can see the reinforcing plate on the floor in the background.
 
Ghost said:
Welded the lates to the frame this past weekend. Be kind I know my welds look like shiat!

203-205crossmember011.jpg


203-205crossmember010.jpg


These actually look decent.

203-205crossmember009.jpg

You can see the reinforcing plate on the floor in the background.
hey they can look like poo as long as they do the job:spin1:
 
ashmanjeepxj said:
That looks great.
It sucks welding over head to the inside frame rails...
Yea, no doubt! I WILL be installing a lift in the shop. I got a friend that is a mechanic and he says he can get me in touch with a company that rebuilds them and then sells them with a warranty. I will not do that laying on the back welding thing again if it can be helped.
 
THEY ARE IN! Well sort of...

203205001.jpg


203205003.jpg
 
a little FYI down hill/vertical down weld have very little penitration. vertical up is the way to go. take a bit more skill, but i would hate to see those cross member welds fail
 
madmax said:
a little FYI down hill/vertical down weld have very little penitration. vertical up is the way to go. take a bit more skill, but i would hate to see those cross member welds fail
You and me both. TY.
 
hmnmm my freind that long awaited welding lesson will be coming soon. Im giving you my big ass bottle and imma get a whip and a case of beer and make your ass weld through an entire bottle and 3 spools of wire before you go any farther into this death trap...... actually im proud of ya you ve come a long way since the ole ranger days.
andy
 
Ghost said:
You and me both. TY.

im really not trying to bust on you. just trying to be help full

im a AWS certified weld inspecter in a ASNT level III bridge shop in portland OR
and i have a AS in weld from portland community college.

to put it mildly welds are my life. i look at then 60+hours aweek
 
madmax said:
im really not trying to bust on you. just trying to be help full

I'm a AWS certified weld inspector in a ASNT level III bridge shop in Portland OR
and i have a AS in weld from Portland community college.

to put it mildly welds are my life. i look at then 60+hours a week
Hey that is why I come here and not pirate. You are kind and they are arses... I appreciate the constructive criticism. And that tool posting above you is my budy that tried to teach me. He welds daily for a fab shop and welds are his life too. Once again TY! :gee:
 
I measured for the Driveshafts and new front Control arms this past weekend. The rear will be at 29.75" A factory Bronco rear is about 30" fully colapsed. So I'll probalby cut it down. I started working on the shifter linkage this weekend and this week. Found out the twinn stick is not working right. So I pulled the 205 after work and found the balls for the shifter rail missing. So some R and R work on the free 205 will be necessary. Unless I can talk a friend out of one of his.
 
This may sound stupid, but a big hunk of wet chamois strategically placed over your otherwise unprotected body parts can go a long way toward keeping you scar free....
 
Everythinig is in finally. Will get some shots of the side brace and shifter linkages this week some time. Just ordered DS from Tom Woods. Rear is 29.75" and front will be 37.25"
 
Ghost said:
Everythinig is in finally. Will get some shots of the side brace and shifter linkages this week some time. Just ordered DS from Tom Woods. Rear is 29.75" and front will be 37.25"
sweet, Its most fun wheeling something new for the first time...
 
Linkage for the twinn stick:
203205sheetmetal026.jpg


New 205 tunnel, not to bad for a beginer!
203-205crossmember018.jpg


New 203 tunnel and shifter.

203-205crossmember019.jpg


Even got one of the two rust holes covered!

203-205crossmember020.jpg


Anyone considering this swap, hack and tube the jeep before you try to make it fit. It is a lot of work. I hope it will be well worth it when I get it on the trail.
 
It's comeing along nicely. You didnt' end up with nearly as large as hole in the floor as I did.

What are you planning on doing about seat mounts?
 
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