NP203/205 Test fit...

[jmop]

What sort of front driveline are you going with? I used superduty 1350 cv's all the way around with TomWoods flanges. The CV head is pritty long on those things and they might clear the second crossmember, it would be close.

A 1310 or 1330 CV would be real close if I had to guess.

 

[Ghost]

What sort of front driveline are you going with? I used superduty 1350 cv's all the way around with TomWoods flanges. The CV head is pritty long on those things and they might clear the second crossmember, it would be close.

A 1310 or 1330 CV would be real close if I had to guess.

Well I was thinking of trying a factory Ford Bronco rear shaft if it is the right length. But until I get it all in place it is hard to say. I believe the 205 has yokes for 1330's.

 

[88rockxj]

Had another thought about this problem. I mounted the spacer to the AW-4 and considered opening up the holes on it.

Is this a really bad idea? It is not a lot of material to remove. Is the AW-4 aluminum back there?

noooooooooooooooooo stooooooooooopppppppppppppp


try moving that adapter around, all those holes back there ARE NOT perfectly ligned up. that spacer will only go on one way. i found this out while clocking my own case at home with no clocking ring

if you measure all those holes on the stock tranny tail housing youll notice thier not all the same distance apart, so pull that ring off and rotate it till it fits and if it wont then try flipping it over and rotate till it fits


on a side note there IS enough material on the aw4 tailhousing to clock your tranny with no ring, if you look youll notice just enough room to drill new holes, i used two aw4 tail housings to line up the holes to mark them. 1.5" sched 40 slides right into the seal allowing to keep the two tail housings lined up properly.

 

[Capt. Nemo]

noooooooooooooooooo stooooooooooopppppppppppppp


try moving that adapter around, all those holes back there ARE NOT perfectly ligned up. that spacer will only go on one way. i found this out while clocking my own case at home with no clocking ring

if you measure all those holes on the stock tranny tail housing youll notice thier not all the same distance apart, so pull that ring off and rotate it till it fits and if it wont then try flipping it over and rotate till it fits


on a side note there IS enough material on the aw4 tailhousing to clock your tranny with no ring, if you look youll notice just enough room to drill new holes, i used two aw4 tail housings to line up the holes to mark them. 1.5" sched 40 slides right into the seal allowing to keep the two tail housings lined up properly.

I thought the same thing. The t-case mounting bolt pattern is not cocentric (concentric?). However, if you look at how equal the holes are off on the ring, it isn't going to matter if he rotates it, they are going to be off regardless. On the 231, only one bolt (as far as I'm able to tell) is offset differently than the rest. There are three in his pic.

 

[88rockxj]

I thought the same thing. The t-case mounting bolt pattern is not cocentric (concentric?). However, if you look at how equal the holes are off on the ring, it isn't going to matter if he rotates it, they are going to be off regardless. On the 231, only one bolt (as far as I'm able to tell) is offset differently than the rest. There are three in his pic.

actualy i thought there was two on mine, im not sure though. with mine i would have multiple holes off line (like him) if i didnt arrange it correctly, so i thought that might be his problem. my bad

 

[Ghost]

I'm going back to the machine shop tomorrow. The spacer is right it's the tcase that was drilled wrong. When they transfered the patern to the case it was flipped. So hopefully he ca redrill the three that are off.

 

[Ghost]

Tcase is back and bolted up! Mocked up the 205 tonight. Is actually higher then the factory crossmember. Please share your toughts on weather or not it is high enough.

 

[jmop]

I clocked mine up as far as I could without the driveline hitting the tranny tunnel. It sits about even with the bottom of the frame rails. I figure if I ever get around to it I can do a flat skid and gain a bit more clearence.

Are you going to use the side mount on the 205?

 

[Ghost]

I clocked mine up as far as I could without the driveline hitting the tranny tunnel. It sits about even with the bottom of the frame rails. I figure if I ever get around to it I can do a flat skid and gain a bit more clearence.

Are you going to use the side mount on the 205?

I was thinking of using that with a leaf spring type bushing. Mine is really close to the frame rail but I think it does hang a little below it. I'm realyl surprised how little I have cut out so far just to get them to fit. I may have to cut some more but I'm hoping to not have to.

 

[vetteboy]

I did a lot of similar cutting to get my NV4500/NP231/non-flipped D300 in my XJ.

In hindsight, I would have rather just cut out the entire trans tunnel and formed a new one rather than try and make it work. It would have saved me a ton of time in patchwork, and honestly I'm still considering doing it. Just something to consider.

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

I would use the side mount on the 205.

Make the 205 as high as you can so its not the lowest point. On Mine the 203 was the lowest point because I did not clock it, factory tranny-to-203

 

[Ghost]

My largest obsicle was to make the 205 not hange below the frame, had to cut the floor and make the seats mounts tall above the 205.

I'd like to know how you did the side mount and how you atached the adapter to the crossmember? I'm trying to figure out how to do the actual mount now.

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

My cross member is at the 203-205 adapter, I dont have one at the tranny. The box tube, its only 120 wall, I drilled it for the two mounting holes and welded in selves so the bolts would not crush the tubing. I made an angle Iron frame from the cross member to the tranny mounts.

The cross member has 1.5in poly joints that are the same separation as my home made poly motor mounts on the chevy 350. I your Tcase mounts are different stiffness or mounted with different separation your likely to break a tranny bell housing from the flex.

The 205 mount is just a piece of 1/4in plate I had sitting around, and another polly joint. I used an old shackle as the frame mount. kinda hack but really quick for what I had sitting around. Its all hidden under the seat.

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

here is another 203-205 cross member Idea. I think it looks nicer then mine.

 

[Ghost]

The cross member has 1.5in poly joints that are the same separation as my home made poly motor mounts on the chevy 350. I your Tcase mounts are different stiffness or mounted with different separation your likely to break a tranny bell housing from the flex.

[/IMG]

Ok I'm not sure I follow you on the seperation thing. Are you saying that if the crossmember and engine have different materials that flex different I'm likely to break a bellhousing?

 

[vetteboy]

Ok I'm not sure I follow you on the seperation thing. Are you saying that if the crossmember and engine have different materials that flex different I'm likely to break a bellhousing?

He's saying that if the driveline twist is limited by the trans mount bushings instead of the motor mount bushings, it puts a lot more strain on the bellhousing.

Question though....doesn't having the 205 side mount outside of the motor/trans mount bushings do this same thing? Wouldn't that end up limiting the driveline twist?

 

[Ghost]

He's saying that if the driveline twist is limited by the trans mount bushings instead of the motor mount bushings, it puts a lot more strain on the bellhousing.

Question though....doesn't having the 205 side mount outside of the motor/trans mount bushings do this same thing? Wouldn't that end up limiting the driveline twist?

Ok so basically you want the engine less stiff then the trans/tcase mount? Also ashman, are those energy suspension bushings that are red? Would that happen to be 1.75 x .120 wall tube they are in? This is what I am thinking but I have my 203 cocked to the side and not up and down.

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

Ok so basically you want the engine less stiff then the trans/tcase mount? Also ashman, are those energy suspension bushings that are red? Would that happen to be 1.75 x .120 wall tube they are in? This is what I am thinking but I have my 203 cocked to the side and not up and down.

Ok lets say you have no motor mounts and bolt the 205 solid to the frame, I think that would still brake the bell housing but could be better off then no T-case mounts and only the Engine mounts?

Best I think is to have matching material at the same separation so the whole drive train Engine-tranny-203-205 can twist the same amount.

My extra 205 bushing is a little wider then the 203 cross member mounts so they are not all perfectly the same but I like this setup better then one bushing centered at the T-case, too much twist.


I use 120 wall for all my bushings, motor or t-case mounts. I do not use 120 wall for bushings on suspension I use only 250wall DOM for that.

My frame rails are sleeved so the inner frame rails were a solid spot to mount the cross member, if you have not plated the inside frame, just add some 120wall or 3/16th plate so it wont rip the frame.

 

[Ghost]

TY, the frame stifining is in the plans.

 

[Ghost]

Crossmember Getting closer.

Nothing final yet just getting ready to build the frame side of the mounts.