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New Front Axle

So sorry for annoying you with my mis-use of terms which I deemed interchangable given that I've seen/heard them used all over this forum....
 
JNickel101 said:
So sorry for annoying you with my mis-use of terms which I deemed interchangable given that I've seen/heard them used all over this forum....

So most people say it wrong, that makes it okay? Acceptable sure, but don't get pissy if someone calls you on it. Calm down, I was simply pointing out the correct term for what you were after. If you say it the wrong way to someone who knows, they aren't going to take you seriously. Which is important if you are on the phone with a shop.
 
Thanks for your imput. Just not thanking you for your method.....thats all.
 
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Im having hard time understanding spending all this money without knowing what your looking to achieve.I havent seen anything on where/what/how you drive.As previously posted Ive been at 6+" for 7+ years with a LP D30 with absolutely no issues,Ive never even replaced a part(but I do grease everything prior to a run or highway trip).I still run stock steering with a couple of "tweaks",no problem.Spend your money on everything else first then work on any issues when(if ever) they occur.Check out my profile and my homepage and you will see my 2000!
 
Find $3700 and I know a place that will build you a Ford HP d44 with:

.500 tubes
any gear choice
OX/ARB locker
True highsteer with 1-ton steering included
Warn hubs
super joints
bolt in to your specs
alloy inner/outter shafts
5 on 5.5 or 8 lug
new beakes/seals/bearings..everything
 
That's a good price. Does it include the donor Ford HP44 or do you still have to find the Ford axle and prepare it?
 
ZachMan said:
Find $3700 and I know a place that will build you a Ford HP d44 with:

.500 tubes
any gear choice
OX/ARB locker
True highsteer with 1-ton steering included
Warn hubs
super joints
bolt in to your specs
alloy inner/outter shafts
5 on 5.5 or 8 lug
new beakes/seals/bearings..everything

And that would be.....? :eeks1:
 
RCP Phx said:
Im having hard time understanding spending all this money without knowing what your looking to achieve.I havent seen anything on where/what/how you drive.As previously posted Ive been at 6+" for 7+ years with a LP D30 with absolutely no issues,Ive never even replaced a part(but I do grease everything prior to a run or highway trip).I still run stock steering with a couple of "tweaks",no problem.Spend your money on everything else first then work on any issues when(if ever) they occur.Check out my profile and my homepage and you will see my 2000!

I'm worried about caster/pinion angles....heard a lot of bad things about LP D30s....you're the first I've heard of who runs that much lift w/o problems...

how's it ride on the highway?
 
RCP Phx said:
Im having hard time understanding spending all this money without knowing what your looking to achieve.I havent seen anything on where/what/how you drive.As previously posted Ive been at 6+" for 7+ years with a LP D30 with absolutely no issues,Ive never even replaced a part(but I do grease everything prior to a run or highway trip).I still run stock steering with a couple of "tweaks",no problem.Spend your money on everything else first then work on any issues when(if ever) they occur.Check out my profile and my homepage and you will see my 2000!

I agree. Like you, I ran 33" tires on stock axles and shafts with 4.56 gears for years on my old Jeep. It is surprising how few breakages you can experience with careful driving.

I think the point at which you should seriously consider moving to a 44 front axle is at 33" tires or over. The 35" tires on my new XJ have a lot more rotating mass, and my new Jeep is a lot heavier. I swapped out the 2001's LP30 for a '93 HP30 as I figured it would be almost as strong as a Rubicon LP44 once it had 30 spline shafts. Only breakage so far has been a bolt in a Warn premium hub.
 
JNickel101 said:
I'm worried about caster/pinion angles....heard a lot of bad things about LP D30s....you're the first I've heard of who runs that much lift w/o problems...

how's it ride on the highway?
Its my only DD,took it to Pikes Peak,Sturgis, and Yellowstone last year.Like Ive said many times,this thing drives better/softer than stock!
BTW...I wheel this thing hard,its only got 35K on it but they are mostly off-road miles.I was just out to FJ a week ago and got some carnage coming down at the Louge!
 
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RCP Phx said:
Its my only DD,took it to Pikes Peak,Sturgis, and Yellowstone last year.Like Ive said many times,this thing drives better/softer than stock!
BTW...I wheel this thing hard,its only got 35K on it but they are mostly off-road miles.I was just out to FJ a week ago and got some carnage coming down at the Louge!

Due to my location, i think i'm having slight problems seeing all of your page :) but looks like you built a custom radius/long arm setup.....how do you have your caster/pinion angle set up? what degrees, etc....
 
JNickel101 said:
Due to my location, i think i'm having slight problems seeing all of your page :) but looks like you built a custom radius/long arm setup.....how do you have your caster/pinion angle set up? what degrees, etc....
I run about 3* of caster giving me excellent pinion angles.
 
Call Solid Axle(888.290.AXLE or www.solidaxle.com)!

They build some of the strongest axles you'll find, and they can build you what ever you need to work in your setup. They make HP 44 axles, and they are just as nice as their 60 stuff.

We're running one in a WeRock Stock Mod TJ and we haven't had any problems with the axle itself (and you can see in the picture how many times we've slammed it into rocks)!! Its cramped, but you can see it hiding in there:
Nationals_0148.jpg
 
Yeah....just got a quote from Solid...LOL....$5000....

Currie was more reasonable at $3500....
 
JNickel101 said:
Yeah....just got a quote from Solid...LOL....$5000....

Currie was more reasonable at $3500....

What are the spec's of the Currie axle? What shafts (inner and outter)? what style knuckles?? Hubs?

Just wondering what you get for that price, seems low for a front axle.
 
its just from inner C to inner C. Detroit locker, chromoly shafts....no hubs, no knuckles....4.56 gears, all the bearings, seals, etc....that was for their HP 9 inch....

EDIT: after rechecking what they quoted me on, the SOLID axle is way more complete - its brakes and everything. ready to fill with fluid and bolt right up. SOLID is the better deal....
 
Thats cool, I wondered when you listed that price!

What all did the Solid Axle come with? Just wondered what they normaly packaged with their axles, I know they can do any setup you want.
 
RCP Phx said:
Im having hard time understanding spending all this money without knowing what your looking to achieve.I havent seen anything on where/what/how you drive.As previously posted Ive been at 6+" for 7+ years with a LP D30 with absolutely no issues,Ive never even replaced a part(but I do grease everything prior to a run or highway trip).I still run stock steering with a couple of "tweaks",no problem.Spend your money on everything else first then work on any issues when(if ever) they occur.Check out my profile and my homepage and you will see my 2000!
?????
 
RCP Phx said:

I get what you're saying......

I do rock crawling and i want the ability to go up in tire size in the future without worrying about breaking everything.....

I want to do a high steer setup...such as teraflex....new diff cover...Warn hub kit...regear to 4.56....new bearings and seals...better clearance/protection for my LCA mounts....I still like the idea of reverse cut gears up front...

plenty of people wheel with a D35 in the rear with "zero problems"...I would feel better with a stronger front axle. Is that so wrong?

I figured by the time I added the hubs, teraflex kit, regeared and did the master install kit, had someone weld me up some LCA mini skids, a truss, and an over-axle track bar mount, I may as well see what a complete new axle would cost me.
 
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