Neutral Safety Switch Problem

[UNCC_99XJ]

Thanks Jon, I'll talk with him and see when he wants to mess with it some more.

So am I correct in saying that the shift linkage does NOT need to be disconnected?

So it looks like I losen both the bolt and the nut, and rotate the switch so that the vertical grove on the shaft is aligned with the vertical line on the switch, then re-tighten everything. Sounds simple enough....too bad we couldn't get it figured out today.

Still confused about why it's so hard to move the gear shift between selections.

Don't have a torque wrench (on my birthday list for a couple of weeks from now ), so gonna have to go against the proper thing to do and guesstimate.

 

[BBeach]

Welcome to my past 2 months of hell, I messed around with it the other weekend and finally got it to start in neutral and park, and I did some "modifications" to get my 1-2 gear back.

 

[BBeach]

And its tough to shift gears because the adjusting bolt is too tight, what I did was have my friend shift through the gears to see if it felt right, then stopped when it was good there and when I could shift into 1-2 and start in Neutral and Park.....however it still wont "click, snap" whatever into the 1-2 position. Theres a piece of metal on the shifter that hits the "housing", i'll try to get up pics from that weekend.

 

[BBeach]

My typical lousy paint interpretation....but from what I get out of it the "1" basically the white thing is what needs to be disconnected? And the two lower things I circled used to hit (well still do) so I got a little angry and took the dremel to the lower oval and grinded just a tiny bit away, and now I can get into the lower gear. Im pretty sure it wasnt the best idea Ive come up with but it got the job done, though it still doesnt click into gear. :smsoap:

 

[5-90]

Thanks Jon, I'll talk with him and see when he wants to mess with it some more.

So am I correct in saying that the shift linkage does NOT need to be disconnected?

So it looks like I losen both the bolt and the nut, and rotate the switch so that the vertical grove on the shaft is aligned with the vertical line on the switch, then re-tighten everything. Sounds simple enough....too bad we couldn't get it figured out today.

Still confused about why it's so hard to move the gear shift between selections.

Don't have a torque wrench (on my birthday list for a couple of weeks from now ), so gonna have to go against the proper thing to do and guesstimate.

Correct. If you give me some time, I can probably find a "truth table" for what outputs are connected in what gear range - then you could check thoroughly with a continuity checker of some type (you'll need it to be powered - the continuity test function on any DMM will serve neatly.) Since you can check from up top, with the NSS connector disconnected from the harness - that may be easiest.

 

[lawsoncl]

Still confused about why it's so hard to move the gear shift between selections.

You need to snug up the adjusting bolt first, give the switch a tap or two then tighten the collet nut. If you do it the other way around, you XXXX the switch a little on the shaft and it gets hard to shift. Also wears out the switch faster.

 

[UNCC_99XJ]

Awesome...this is great to know as I can see how it's can easily be put out of adjustment when cleaning it.

He had to take it to the shop today to get the a/c recharged (imagine that!) and was going to have them see if they could adjust it while they had it in there, depending on cost. But this is definitely good to know for the future.

Jon, I would like that "table", when ever you have a moment, no rush.

BBeach, thanks for your help as well. I figured it was probably tha bolt that was on too tight. Like I said I don't have a torque wrench, so we had to guesstimate as to how tight to make it.

Nothin like workin on a Jeep in the dorm parking lot with limited tools right? :gee:

 

[5-90]

Awesome...this is great to know as I can see how it's can easily be put out of adjustment when cleaning it.

He had to take it to the shop today to get the a/c recharged (imagine that!) and was going to have them see if they could adjust it while they had it in there, depending on cost. But this is definitely good to know for the future.

Jon, I would like that "table", when ever you have a moment, no rush.

BBeach, thanks for your help as well. I figured it was probably tha bolt that was on too tight. Like I said I don't have a torque wrench, so we had to guesstimate as to how tight to make it.

Nothin like workin on a Jeep in the dorm parking lot with limited tools right? :gee:

Always assume the next poor schmuck to work on your rig will be you, and you'll be doing it with a Swiss Army Knife and an ax. Plan accordingly.

Anyhow...

Looking into the "terminal end", with the retaining latch on TOP, and contacts identified thus:
(LATCH)
E F G H
D C B A

In Park, continuity exists between B and C ONLY (B-C)
In Reverse, A-E
In Neutral, B-C
In Drive - no continuity between any terminals
In Third, A-G
In First/Second, A-H

- Source: 1999FSM

 

[UNCC_99XJ]

Always assume the next poor schmuck to work on your rig will be you, and you'll be doing it with a Swiss Army Knife and an ax. Plan accordingly.

Anyhow...

Looking into the "terminal end", with the retaining latch on TOP, and contacts identified thus:
(LATCH)
E F G H
D C B A

In Park, continuity exists between B and C ONLY (B-C)
In Reverse, A-E
In Neutral, B-C
In Drive - no continuity between any terminals
In Third, A-G
In First/Second, A-H

- Source: 1999FSM

LOL I have a FSM for my 99 which is what I was using to try and adjust the stupid thing, didn't see that table in there though...will have to give it another look. Thanks!

 

[5-90]

LOL I have a FSM for my 99 which is what I was using to try and adjust the stupid thing, didn't see that table in there though...will have to give it another look. Thanks!

Page 21-183, if I'm remembering that number correctly. It's in Section 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case, under the AW4 (and fairly early in the section.)