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Need some welding/fab help...

NW99XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Gresham, Or.
Hey guys, so here's where I'm at with things.....
1-ton OTK steering going in.....
All necessary reaming is done,
Durango box is in,
bars are set up and TRE's installed.
Steering Stabilizer bracket removed
Sway bar end link mounts removed.

I have mocked up the new tie rod and drag link in place, and it its evident that I need to relocate my track bar mount, and.... most likely..... modify my track bar.

So I think what will need to happen is that I'll need to cut / shorten / sleeve the track bar and fab up some sort of mount over the axle, as well as cap/brace the coil bucket on the passenger side a bit......
Thats what I'm going to need help with. I have had one offer so far...but I'm not sure scheduling is going to work out.....

I can/will kick down food/beer & cash for time and supplies if needed.....
I can cut/grind/prep/paint/etc... I just dont have the means/supplies to do this part of it all.
If any of you have the time/means and are willing to help me out, I'd like to try and get this taken care of tonight if at all possible.

I'm working today but should be back to my place (Gresham) about 5-5:30 or so....
The jeep is there and I still have a few things to finish up before it's driveable.
(bleed system, install cotter pins, grease zirks, and tighten all nuts is all)
Any takers? (thanks in advance)



 
You need someone to relocate your trackbar over the axle, fabbing up a mount from scratch, and cutting, shortening, and sleeving your existing trackbar, and you're hoping to have this all done this evening?
 
You need someone to relocate your trackbar over the axle, fabbing up a mount from scratch, and cutting, shortening, and sleeving your existing trackbar, and you're hoping to have this all done this evening?
Yea, yea....I know, high hopes......
It CAN wait..... I was just hoping to have this done before tomorrow, so I could take my own jeep up for the SOLV clean up, but multiple 12+ hour days at work over the last couple weeks, have pushed this project back farther than I was wanting/expecting. No harm in putting it out there right?
I know there are ppl out there that could do this in their sleep..... Maybe not in this chapter, maybe so....either way, no harm in asking, right?
I have seen multiple write ups (including THIS ONE) on fabricating your own bracket, and there's a couple guys here locally that I know have done this them selves on their own cherokees as well.

You need this. I, As well as BPB, Bronzewyrm and a few others run this bracket. you HAVE to go OTA with your Panhard/track bar when you raise the steering to OTA.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/PAN-OFF.html
Yea I HAD hoped I could get away with it for a little while, I have read a few times of guys that were able to get away without relocation, granted clearances were tight, but still.....
Obviously their set-ups were different than mine, but whatever.
I figured I would relocate the track bar regardless, just didnt know if I was going to have to do it right away or not. I did talk to Jon (bronze) last night, as I know he's got almost the exact same set-up as I do (now) ...what I didnt know until last night was that he already went with the OTA panhard bar kit.


YUP! .....that one was one on my radar too, I had also looked at the TNT CUSTOMS BRACKET as well as the JKS BRACKET ...in either case I had just planned on modifying my existing track bar, but will prob throw that idea out the window for simplicity sake if I cant do something about it tonight.
 
Yea I HAD hoped I could get away with it for a little while, I have read a few times of guys that were able to get away without relocation, granted clearances were tight, but still.....
Obviously their set-ups were different than mine, but whatever.
I figured I would relocate the track bar regardless, just didnt know if I was going to have to do it right away or not.


Josh, you DO realize, Relocating your track bar to over the axle has *almost* Nothing to do with "Clearances"

It's to realign your trac-bar to match the new angle of the Drag link.. those two bars have to run Parallel..


edit: And make sure to research this, Because you want your track bar to be atleast 80%(iirc) the length of your drag link..
:thumbup:
 
Josh, you DO realize, Relocating your track bar to over the axle has *almost* Nothing to do with "Clearances"

It's to realign your trac-bar to match the new angle of the Drag link.. those two bars have to run Parallel..


edit: And make sure to research this, Because you want your track bar to be atleast 80%(iirc) the length of your drag link..
:thumbup:

Oh yea, I know....when I say clearances, I mean clearance of the track bar in relation to the tie rod, or tie rod in relation to the coil buckets, sway bar end link mounts, and diff cover, etc...
I have done a ton of reading on this, and knew what I was getting into taking this on..... just my time frame didnt work out so well.
Thanks Scott!:thumbup:
 
I have all my 1-ton steering from ruffstuff in my apartment and my WJ knuckles but I am just all of a sudden at a loss of time to touch any of it till the end of june, tempted to drop it off and just have it all done in one go... from your pics you should of went with the offset TRE's to gain the clearance needed.. Wait.. is that stock GC y-link?
 
Another side note is you may want to do a custom axle side mount for the trac-bar because it should not only be parallel but the same length as the drag-link.

I have read like 20 threads and other random shit about this swap and it only gets more and more complicated and expensive to do it right. It is well worth it for the 1-ton OTK steering and brakes and also adding some WJ ALLOY ball-joints.. still deciding which ones but they are like 200 bucks!
 
Yea the WJ knuckle swap was another topic I have read (probably too much) about....definitely attractive....but your right....the more I read, the more conflicting reports/stories I come across, and it just keeps adding up to more confusion that I don't care to sort out right now.
 
Josh, I'd be willing to lend a hand, but the timings not right. I'd suggest doing some cardboard aided drafting and get a rough design going for the mount.

Will your jeep be mobile or are you going to need this done at your house?
 
Well I just got a home a little while ago....finished up the last little bit of grinding that I had to do, ...installed the grease zirks, tightened everything down, and threw in the cotter pins.....went to go put one wheel on, and even with my spacers...the 15's dont fit....
I thought FOR SURE i'd clear having those spacers on.....
(figures)
OH WELL.....thanks for the offers of help guys,
But until I source some 16's and new rubber (which means I need to find a way to come up with an a$$ load of cash) ....the jeeps new home is my garage.
In the mean time I will most likely order the ruff stuff OTA kit and call it good,
I'll take the offers of help when it comes time to burn that in though!
 
Bummer.

I assume the TRE is contacting the inside of the wheel?

I'm OTK on the driver side with Currie Steering and have room to spare with a 3.75" back spaced wheel. Is the Chevy TRE's that much larger?
u3u5a7ym.jpg
 

Sorry for the delayed response guys.

Bummer.
I assume the TRE is contacting the inside of the wheel?

Yea it sure is....but just enough to cause bite....its not a MASSIVE interference, but its there none the less.....as soon as the tire is fully mounted, there is enough bite to prevent the wheel from turning.







I'm OTK on the driver side with Currie Steering and have room to spare with a 3.75" back spaced wheel. Is the Chevy TRE's that much larger?
I dont have the exact specs on either (Currie or the GM's that I'm using,) but for comparison sake, from left to right is a stock XJ TRE, a ZJ TRE, and finally one of the GM TRE's that I'm using.


Going off of your pic Dustin, and using the knuckle as scale, it LOOKS like these are a bit bigger.
PIC COURTESY OF TORX
u3u5a7ym.jpg



So...if memory serves me right (please correct me if I'm wrong) ...the Jeep Ravine wheels have 5" of back spacing.....
BUT...according to THIS it says the Ravines are 5.5"..... I have also read 5.25, so I dont know WTF...... (gonna have to head out and measure it myself.

SO....Assuming 5" of BS....and with my 1.25" wheel spacers, I should be sitting at an equivalent of 3.75" of back spacing.
Judging from what I see here, I MIGHT be good with a 15" wheel with 3.5" of back spacing. (essentially giving me .25" more clearance....which is really about all I need)

So....what I figure I'll do, is try to find someone that has a wheel that matches this spec (15x8 - 3.5" BS) that I can mount up real quick to try.... last thing I want to do is shell out a wad of cash for the wrong wheels....
If that doesnt work, I'm left with having to step up to 16's....not IDEAL, but I guess I gotta do what I gotta do.

Either way, I'm at the point I need new rubber....i'm right about 15% tread left on the ones I have, so it's definitely time.
I really wasn't planning on having to shell out the bucks for rims AND tires right now, but It's needed, so I gotta make something happen. (time for a fire sale)

In addition to that, I will (very soon) be ordering the Ruff Stuff Panhard Kit.
panhard%20kit.jpg


I will of course need help welding this on, so when the time comes, I'll post it up and see who has the will and means.

So thats where we're at as of now....the Jeep is in the garage, and it aint goin anywhere for now.....
If anyone is running 3.5" BS wheels and would care to swing by my house (Gresham) for a quick test fit, that would be great......
 
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those aluminum 15 inch wheels? I read all over that there were clearance issues with "thicker" aluminum 15s but with steel wheels with aftermarket backspacing you are usually good to go with the bigger TRE's.
 
those aluminum 15 inch wheels? I read all over that there were clearance issues with "thicker" aluminum 15s but with steel wheels with aftermarket backspacing you are usually good to go with the bigger TRE's.

Yea, they're 15"x8" Jeep Ravine wheels.
And you may be right, I have never heard of the castings being larger but you could be on to something there.

Now for those of you who may suggest I take the easy way out and just grind off the corner of the TRE and call it good...... no....not so much, I suppose I COULD also just say screw it, force the wheels on, and drive it until it self clearances.... again...not so much. I'd rather not take the "hokey" way out on this one, if it was still my DD, then I MAY consider doing something just to get it back on the road, But as I now have the time (and for the most part the means) to do it right, I'd rather take care of it properly.
 
Kill 6 birds with one stone any buy a set of 17" Walker Evans Beadlocks and some 35x12.50 PitBull Rockers.
 
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