• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Misthreaded valve cover bolt. What to do?

B

bimmerjeeper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
I am in the middle of replacing my VC gasket.
The front bolt right next to the two coolant hoses isn't going back in right.
I thought maybe the valve cover was seated wrong, and causing the bolt to misthread.
So, I removed the cover entirely, and tried to thread the bolt directly to the head with no cover in the way.
Just to make sure it wasn't the cover causing the misthread.

This didn't work. It still gets stuck very quickly after like 2 turns. All the other bolts can be hand tightened for many turns before resistance appears.
It looks like it's going in slightly crooked, but I've backed it out the tried hand turning this bolt for the last hour.
I can't get it straight no matter how many times I try. So, I think the hole got misthreaded, and now it only goes in slightly crooked.
I have no idea how it would have happened, b/c all I did was take the bolt out earlier.

Also, it's not the bolt itself. The bolt threads fine in other holes, and other bolts don't work in this hole.

What are my options?
Should I "power through" the misthread, and hope it seats correctly after a few more turns?

Can I just drive it without this one bolt?
Should I reinstall the valve cover, and just leave the bolt one off?
Or, will there be a major leak with only 1 missing bolt?

If I really do need to get this bolt taken care of, is the car at least drivable for a short distance to a local mechanic, with a missing bolt? (Like 1/2 mile)
Or should I tow it only?

What will a mechanic most likely do in this situation?
Can he use one of those tap/die sets to re-thread the hole?
Or will he helicoil it with a smaller bolt size?

Looking for the one guy who understands this issue,
and can offer his guidance to get out of this jam. Thanks.
 
Last edited:
try a different bolt, if it goes in you need a new bolt, if not you need a tap. should be a quick easy fix.
 
Thanks, it's not the bolt itself. The bolt threads fine in other holes, and other bolts don't work in this hole.

I don't own a tap and die set.
I don't think I am comfortable with possibly permanently ruining the threads if I use it wrong.
Can I drive it to a mechanic with a missing bolt or does it need to be towed?
 
Last edited:
put the rest of them in and don't worry about it, if it bothers you take it somewhere. you can buy the tap you need to fix it for less than $5 at any hardware store (or most auto part stores).
 
Verify there's nothing in the hole, like oil or old gasket crap. Blow it out with brake cleaner then let it evaporate. Run a few Q Tips down in the hole to make sure it's clean.

The hole is 1/4-20 threads. If you tap it out make sure you clean the hole out.

Edit: I didn't see where you are frightened to tap out the hole. Try cleaning it out anyway.
 
Your jeep will never run again... You should probably just have it crushed.
 
Only option is to drive the jeep without the valve cover on.
 
bluejeepkid said:
Only option is to drive the jeep without the valve cover on.
Click to expand...

On second thought, doin this might result in spilling oil on your driveway. I advice draining the oil first. Then driving =]
 
Pro tip: drill the hole out to the size indicated on your tap then clean it out well. Insert the tap while at the same time applying oil. Go in a turn and back out a turn or so and then back in and back out etc until the hole is tapped. Here is another tip: some resistance is normal when removing bolts, tapping holes, etc and what you need to do when this happens is apply more pressure to the tool with the muscles in your forearms, and maybe even some other muscles if its an especially torqued on bolt.
 
You may feel pressure being applied to your hand by the tools in question: this is also normal, don't worry about bruising or anything.
 
bimmerjeeper said:
What will a mechanic most likely do in this situation?
Can he use one of those tap/die sets to re-thread the hole?
Or will he helicoil it with a smaller bolt size?

Looking for the one guy who understands this issue,
and can offer his guidance to get out of this jam. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Usually when you helicoil you drill it out bigger, retap it with a special tap that comes with the helicoil, and then put the same size threads back in. So the end result is the original thread specification is restored.

It's something you could EASILY do at home. I'd chase it with a tap first and see if it cleans up the threads first though.
 
Thanks for the replies. I was unable to retap the hole, as the fit was too tight around those radiator hoses, and I just could not get it started. I am not even sure I was using the right size tap, even though the threads did match. Even the tap seemed to go in crooked. I also did not have the T-handle, and was trying to use a Vice Grip to start the tap. After some time, I gave up.

I ended up using a bunch of washers to use as a spacer for that bolt, and I was able to tighten it 2 turns. Hopefully, it put enough pressure on that section of the VC cover. I will watch for leaks when I start the car and take it for a test run.
 
Using the wrong tools incorrectly and your surprised it didn't work? Come on man.
 
It will probably fail causing you to crash into a bus load of nuns.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Valve cover doesn't fit
2
Replies
26
Views
4K
75SV1
7
Anak
How to Slot the CPS
Replies
4
Views
256
Evan03
E
T
1 Ton steering clearance issues
Replies
9
Views
937
XJChang
X
D
Specific Moab Wheel On XJ
Replies
16
Views
321
DirtySouthXJ
D
N
  • Locked
Easy Shock Mount Brackets
Replies
0
Views
14
NAXJA_Archives
N
Back
Top