Lowered the XJ back down

[GRIMUS99XJ]

I bought a completely stock XJ that was originally on 225s. I would've ordered your kit through eBay, however JCWhitney had a sale going on that had free shipping, so I got it from them. I never checked what exactly was in the kit because I figured it was the same as the one on eBay. Thanks for the concern though.

not a problem and like I said let me know if I can help :thumbup:

 

[SteveT]

Man, you work fast.That white Dodge in the background never even moved.

 

[TNT]

I didn't tweak the lift right so I put all the stock stuff back on. The S10 packs gave a lot more lift than the front had. By the way, the 3" RC front coils gave me less than an inch of lift on the front. Measured from ground to fender flare, it was just about 32" with the RC 3" lift coils, 31" with the stock coils.
The stock leaves inverted so now the rear axle is sitting on the bumpstops. I broke a front swaybar link so now I have no swaybars attached. The front isn't doing well either, it bottoms out as well. Tomorrow I will go to a few shops and ask how much it will cost to replace the leaf packs, coils, shocks, sway bar links, and whatever else needs fixing. I already know this won't be cheap, but how much do you think parts and labor would be? By the way, PM me if you have a full 3.5 or 3" lift kit for sale. Thanks.
Before:

After:

I call BS on the less then 1" of lift in the front. The front shock is over well over 1" wide and your flare is over 2 shock widths higher over the tire in the after pic.

The bodyside molding is noticeably below the top of the tire in the before pic and well over the the tire in the after pic.

It looks like at least 2 1/2" of lift if not more. Your pictures don't lie....

The rear looks like about 4" or more.

Having more lift in the rear also will cause the front to sit slightly lower due to weight transfer.

Unless you have MJ bumpstops instead of stock bumpstops there is no way the rear suspension is sitting on the bumpstops.

So here is my thoughts "Stop the Bogus Info".... :explosion

 

[TheEddie]

I call BS on the less then 1" of lift in the front. The front shock is over well over 1" wide and your flare is over 2 shock widths higher over the tire in the after pic.

The bodyside molding is noticeably below the top of the tire in the before pic and well over the the tire in the after pic.

It looks like at least 2 1/2" of lift if not more. Your pictures don't lie....

The rear looks like about 4" or more.

Having more lift in the rear also will cause the front to sit slightly lower due to weight transfer.

Unless you have MJ bumpstops instead of stock bumpstops there is no way the rear suspension is sitting on the bumpstops.

So here is my thoughts "Stop the Bogus Info".... :explosion

THANK you! I have 2.5" of lift in the front and it looks lower than that.. :smsoap:

Should have just left it the way it was (and maybe add a 1" spacer to the front, or just wait for the rear to settle) and just got some tires man.. you're running yourself in circles.

 

[Blaine B.]

The gold car didn't move either.

I'm confused. Is the BEFORE picture showing the vehicle lift prior to being removed, or the vehicle prior to installing the lift?

If that makes sense, hope it does......

 

[TNT]

The only way the measurements make sense is if the no lift measurement was to the top of the flare and the lifted measurement was made to the bottom of the flare....

 

[scottmcneal]

okay, now i know i was right.. i does look higher with the lift. for a 3" inch it looked good

 

[codyyy]

It was raked real bad. The AFTER pic is the stock pic of it after the lift was taken off and stock stuff put on. I managed to rip that lift off and put stock stuff on in about an hour or so. I realized there is no way the axle was hitting the bumpstops. That slamming feeling I got from hitting even the most minor bump was the shocks slamming into the body. Now I'm not riding with rear shocks, so no more slamming. I managed to bust the lower rear shock mount, that stud on the axle so I can't put on one of the rear shocks.
By the way, I sold off the lift. Gave the guy advice on what he should do should he decide to use all S10 packs. The guy will be using the XJ that lift is going on for a tow vehicle, so it works out perfect for him.
So now I am back to square one, only this time the leafpacks are completely busted, the lower shock mounts are busted, the swaybar links are broken, and the coils aren't doing much better. I'm trying to find a full 3" system that won't break the bank but has something to fix the trackbar or at least a new trackbar. I'd be willing to settle for used.

 

[Blaine B.]

But I thought you said the lift wasn't enough. Now it was too much?

Confused.

 

[codyyy]

No, I just didn't like the raked look and we did the S10 packs wrong. No shimming, cut way too long, and we used the wrong centerpins and overload leafs. When we took the S10 packs off, the centerpins were shaped like an "S" because the axle would shift back and forth, bending the center pin. Good thing that thing didn't snap, because it was about to.

 

[codyyy]

Not enough lift up front, too much in the rear. Right now I want to lift it the "right way" instead of using oddball pieces to put it together.

 

[whitetrashxj]

are you still in the market to get another lift kit? if so why not look into the rubicon express 3.5" superflex lift with the full leaf packs? my xj looked like yours in the bottom pic when i bought it and when i put the new lift kit in it sat the same as my buddys with the re. 4.5" extreme duty lift, and it flexed really well, since then ive upgraded to a 8.8 in the back, long arms, sye, and 32`s and i love it, not to mention the ride is awsome too

 

[codyyy]

I was thinking about getting the RE kit since many people use it. Only thing is, how does the trackbar hold up with that new brace, or should I just upgrade to a new trackbar? The major key here is that I don't want death wobbles, I am tired of it. The whole time I had that one lift on, I had death wobbles and I think it was because the lack of LCAs and something to fix the trackbar, since the axle wasn't centered.

 

[scottmcneal]

I got a 6.5 lift from rough country, i get no DEATH WOBBLE........I ave NOT bal my tire yet,, did alim with tape... If you set up the lift right the first time you won't have DEATH WOBBLE...I don't have the money to get my tires balancean alin done at this time... So you buy any lift you want(BUT RUSTYS) just do it right, read before install, messure,

P.S. I LOVE MY ROUGH COUNTRY

 

[whitetrashxj]

I was thinking about getting the RE kit since many people use it. Only thing is, how does the trackbar hold up with that new brace, or should I just upgrade to a new trackbar? The major key here is that I don't want death wobbles, I am tired of it. The whole time I had that one lift on, I had death wobbles and I think it was because the lack of LCAs and something to fix the trackbar, since the axle wasn't centered.

i didnt use the new brace, i just ended up buying a adjustable track bar from r.e and its been fine, nothing wrong with it and lately ive been beating the shit outta my jeep, i dont get any death wobbles at all at any speed, even with non balanced 32`s,, i also agree with scott, stay away from rustys,

 

[scottmcneal]

I got my kit from R C an it came with the track bar an shocks an everything else i needed, all you need to do is read before you jump in with both feet an start a lift..The lift you did, They call it a bastard lift, or a bb.. so now you know why, just buy the lift YOU want. So if it is a 3 or 4 or 5 or more just do it an enjoy your jeep when you get it done

 

[codyyy]

I'm just trying to figure out what the best thing would be is. I have a deal to get full RE 3.5" packs for $225, so I might actually just part together a lift like I did last time. This time, I'll do an alignment and put something to fix the trackbar and LCAs on it, just to be sure.
The S10 packs were nice, it's just that we didn't do it right. The axle wasn't shimmed so the thing was tilted upwards, and would shift back and forth on the leaf packs. That's what caused the center pins to bend and twist.

 

[scottmcneal]

NO STOP........ DO NOT MICKEY MOUSE TRACK BAR OR FRONT END.......Is there anyone in your area to help that knows about lifts on jeeps? didn't you break somthing in the front end? Now for the lift, just BUY a FULL 3.5 KIT that way you have every thing you need right... then you can do it right the first time an your done... then your out an happy

 

[TNT]

I'm just trying to figure out what the best thing would be is. I have a deal to get full RE 3.5" packs for $225, so I might actually just part together a lift like I did last time. This time, I'll do an alignment and put something to fix the trackbar and LCAs on it, just to be sure.
The S10 packs were nice, it's just that we didn't do it right. The axle wasn't shimmed so the thing was tilted upwards, and would shift back and forth on the leaf packs. That's what caused the center pins to bend and twist.

Center pins shift and bend due to improper assembly and installation of the springs. The axle being shimmed wrong or not at all won't cause it either... They need to be assembled correctly.

So don't blame the springs.

And while you are at it admit that the front was lifted well over 2" probably the full 3" like your pictures show.

I would suggest a complete lift kit with rear springs, UCA/LCA and a new trackbar. Either have a shop or a fellow experenced member help so it is done correctly this time.

 

[NateST]

Depending on how much your going to wheel the RE 3.5 with full packs are nice. You can get it for 604.00 or around that price I think 4x4groupbuy has free shocks. Running a 6.5 or so your going to have to get new drive shaft and SYE + it will probably cost more. Depends on the budget. OME 2 in. lift runs around 8-900$ but advertises it can clear 31*10.5 (OME rides really good as well).