• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Locker in front or rear?

and lock it instead as long as you can live with the road manners of a rear locker. You wouldn't notice a front locker at all when in 2wd on the road, but you will with a rear locker.

Not that it matters in this thread, but adding a rear locker did not change the road manners on my rig at all. D44 with a detroit.
 
It did mine (D44 with Detroit Locker). But I'm running a 5-speed and it seems like it would be less noticeable with an auto. Are you running an automatic?
 
Either the u-joints or the ears gave way, don't know which first, but they both exploded. The long side had twisted at the splines as well, but the ears/joint gave way before that completely broke. I was using standard stock axle shafts with half circle clips on the long & short sides, but the short side also had the caps tack welded in.

Usually in that scenario the cap comes off the u-joint allowing it to smack the ears till they bust. -B
 
This is my exact setup at the current time (front). I'm running a lockright in the front and have the split axle with a posi lock & the larger u-joints. I have run this setup for about 8 years. Never broke an axle (did have a cap come off jacking things up. Full circle c clips fixed that issue) I have wheeled all over Cali... JV, Rubicon, Ducy, even took it to moab.
It has been a great setup for me. I am not heavy on the skinny peddle.
With that said, I have a locked 44 in the rear. Having the open 35 in the rear obviously changes your situation. I would think that would put more stress on the front. My heep had a 35 when I bought it. I changed it out before doing any other mod. That's where I would start.

What does it take to swap the clips? Different u-joints, shafts, or just swapping the clips? I haven't even looked at them if you can't tell. :)
I'd like to swap out the rear axle but unfortunately I can't weld to save my life, so that kinda narrows down my choices since I'm too cheap to pay to have an axle built.
I guess I'll just wheel open unless I can get a front locker to work. I can keep the wheels on the ground most of the time, it's just those few times when it would be nice to have a little more traction.
 
What does it take to swap the clips? Different u-joints, shafts, or just swapping the clips? I haven't even looked at them if you can't tell. :)

You just need to grind off a bit of material where the current C-clip is. Just enough to clearance a Full Circle snap ring.
 
Lock the front, weld that rear 35, wheel it, break it, replace with an 8.8. Sounds like a heck of a plan to me.
 
Lock the front, weld that rear 35, wheel it, break it, replace with an 8.8. Sounds like a heck of a plan to me.

Except for those angry people stuck behind him on the trail when he wheels and breaks a part that he knew was going to break. Sounds like a bad plan to me...
 
Breaking on the trail just sucks, build it beforehand so it doesn't break.
 
I took the easy way out....my front axle is a disconnect dana 30. I welded the spiders to each other.

the disconnect, while still vacuum controlled (soon to be air tho) is manually controlled through an air switch from a semi truck. it does not affect driving on the road in any fashion unless 4wd is engaged. when 4wd is engaged steering gets a bit harder.
 
Back
Top