Locker in front or rear?

[blondejoncherokee]

i would say this question hinges on one thing: do you have a 35 rear or not? if yes lock the front and ditch the rear end. if you have a 29 spline 8.25, a 44, or an 8.8 id lock the rear and then the front since they are worth building up. otherwise if you have a 35 lock the front and carry spare jy shafts with the jy unit bearings attached.

 

[Magus2727]

So they do... and Detroit differentials are an Eaton Brand? Humm... you lean something new every day.

And so they do make them, do they work with the Nitro 4.88 gears? The True-Trac would be one of the best bets for a DD in the front axle but wonder how the constant bias change would affect predictability while off road. Its one of those things I am sure you would just get use to.

 

[Jeep450r]

i would say this question hinges on one thing: do you have a 35 rear or not? if yes lock the front and ditch the rear end. if you have a 29 spline 8.25, a 44, or an 8.8 id lock the rear and then the front since they are worth building up. otherwise if you have a 35 lock the front and carry spare jy shafts with the jy unit bearings attached.

I have the turdy-five

 

[Magus2727]

I think that answers your question, while there is many different opinions on front or back every one can agree that putting any $$ in a D35 is a waste.

 

[boomhauer]

Solves this thread, D35:rattle: = Lock the front. Done. -B

 

[cher96]

I think that answers your question, while there is many different opinions on front or back every one can agree that putting any $$ in a D35 is a waste.

x infinity LOL

 

[fool4wheelin]

Then why would you want to lock the rear, the front is invisible in two wheel drive, I live in ND too, and put a true trac in the rear, and a locker in the front, just fine

Wow, I thought I was the only member living in this "Flat" land of Fargo. At least we have lots of snow (and water)!!!

You have a good point, but I still plan on using 4x4 in the winter. Price and my first three points also swayed my decision. I plan on putting a True-Trac in the front eventually, so I'll have the opposite system as you. I'll find out this winter if I made the right choice or not.

 

[Flyfisher]

I'm with whoever said selectable in front and limited slip/locker in rear. I pondered this questions for a while. Since I have the NP242 with "full time" 4x4, I went electric selectable at both ends...E-locker in front D30, Ected in rear 8.8. Just got it all together...and it wheels great in the mountains. I'll have to let you know how it does on snowy streets/highways this winter (we do get some of the white stuff here in MT).

I went with this combination so I could still use full-time 4x4 without worrying about a front locker in snow, and had to ditch the D35 rear (didn't want to spend the $$ to lock it). I also re-geared...an issue to consider before locking either the front or rear...don't spend $ on a locker/carrier that you're just gonna have to replace when/if you re-gear.

Just my $0.02 worth.

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

rear first...

Yup ........... nuff said!!:thumbup:

 

[ColoradoRaptor]

I vote Selectable in Front and an Auto Locker (LunchBox) in the Rear where it is most beneficial.

Detroit, Lockright, or Aussie (in that order) for the Rear.

For the front

Go with a Selectable for the front... The very best is the OX Locker and is less expensive than an Air or Electric Selectable. ARB Locker Kit plus Air Pump= Big Bucks.

No wires to short out. No hoses to crack or brake or Air Pump to worry about.

On slippery, rainy, icy, or snowy surfaces a selectable is always the best for the front. When unselected the wheels spin like an open diff and you will not have to worry about it suddenly locking up and taking you where you have never been before. It's very difficult to make normal turns with a LunchBox on the Front. The front end feels like it's on ice and your turning radius is cut short.I will never go with anything else but a selectable for the front.

I have seen People go up Inclines and hit Mud or Sand and their LunchBox wouldn't let them Steer. I have driven in Heavy Rain here in Florida and the Oil, Grit, Rubber, Sand have kept me going straight without a Locker... heaven forbid I had a LunchBox in the Front.

* 100% MADE IN THE USA.
* Lockers are made of 8620 steel. SAME AS RING AND PINION GEARS
* Only FORGED and heat treated steel. NO CAST PARTS HERE
* Exclusive 4 spider gear design on ALL OX Lockers.
* HEAVY DUTY Steel Diff Cover. Included FREE with each locker
* “Back Cut” gear tooth locking ring and locking gear. DESIGNED FOR MAXIMUM LOCKING FORCE!
* 100% mechanical design with cable and shifter.
* Optional Air Actuation System.


If you choose you could go with any of these options:

Manual shifter OX-SHFT

Air actuation system OXA1001

Electronic shifter OXE1001


OX Lockers for the following aplications:


Dana 30 3.73 and up, 27 spline OXD30C373H-27

Dana 30 3.73 and up, 30 spline OXD30C373H-30

Dana 35 3.55 and up, 27 spline OXD35C355H-27

Dana 35 3.55 and up, 30 spline OXD35C355H-30

Dana 44 3.73 and dn,30 spline OXD44C373D-30

Dana 44 3.92 and up, 30 spline OXD44C392H-30

Dana 44 3.92 and up, 33 spline OXD44C392H-33

Dana 44 JK, Non Rubicon, 30 spline OXD44JK-30

Dana 60 4.10 and dn, 35 spline OXD60C354H-35

Dana 60 4.10 and dn, 30 spline OXD60C354H-30

Dana 60 4.56 and up, 35 spline OXD60C456H-35

Dana 60 4.56 and up, 30 spline OXD60C456H-30

Ford 8.8 2.73 and up, 31 spline OXF88C273H-31

AMC 20 3.08 and up, 29 spline OXA20C308H-29

Yes, they are working on a Chrysler 8.25 Locker and its in testing right now.


http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/Home/tabid/365/Default.aspx


OX

440 S. Pinellas Ave

Tarpon Springs, FL 34689


Technical Support: 727-230-7803

Fax: 727-232-3721


Email at:

[email protected]


Hope this helps.

[/quote]

OX is the shizzznit!!! I have one in the rear and am putting a second in the front!!!

 

[fubar XJ]

I'm with whoever said selectable in front and limited slip/locker in rear. I pondered this questions for a while. Since I have the NP242 with "full time" 4x4, I went electric selectable at both ends...E-locker in front D30, Ected in rear 8.8. Just got it all together...and it wheels great in the mountains. I'll have to let you know how it does on snowy streets/highways this winter (we do get some of the white stuff here in MT).

I went with this combination so I could still use full-time 4x4 without worrying about a front locker in snow, and had to ditch the D35 rear (didn't want to spend the $$ to lock it). I also re-geared...an issue to consider before locking either the front or rear...don't spend $ on a locker/carrier that you're just gonna have to replace when/if you re-gear.

Just my $0.02 worth.

This. I have had some engagement issues with my front OX, but other than that a selectable in the front is the way to go with a 242. It runs very nicely at speed in 4x4 full time, very safe and predictable.

 

[doodahman]

I'm gonna toss a little fuel on the fire here and bring up the Center Axle Disconnect D30. :flame:

Let's suppose you were running a D30-CAD/D35-open with 33-12.50s and wanted to run a locker for some recreational rock-crawling(ie Moab) without having to spend a lot of money.
A Posi-Lock has been installed as well.
(Let's assume the driver also realizes the eminent danger of the skinny pedal in this situation.)

Now, obviously, a locker in the rear is not even remotely an option. But, if a drop-in locker were to be installed into the front D30, any ideas if the axle would survive for any period of time? What about the disconnect slider ring itself? Or, am I just dreaming?

 

[MoparManiac]

I'm gonna toss a little fuel on the fire here and bring up the Center Axle Disconnect D30. :flame:

Let's suppose you were running a D30-CAD/D35-open with 33-12.50s and wanted to run a locker for some recreational rock-crawling(ie Moab) without having to spend a lot of money.
A Posi-Lock has been installed as well.
(Let's assume the driver also realizes the eminent danger of the skinny pedal in this situation.)

Now, obviously, a locker in the rear is not even remotely an option. But, if a drop-in locker were to be installed into the front D30, any ideas if the axle would survive for any period of time? What about the disconnect slider ring itself? Or, am I just dreaming?

If you still have 260x joints, you'll be blowing those up.

I would convert to the one piece shaft and get some 760s in there. Then you'd probably be fine.

 

[Ghost]

If you still have 260x joints, you'll be blowing those up.

I would convert to the one piece shaft and get some 760s in there. Then you'd probably be fine.

I would not say you would be fine but you would be better off.

 

[MoparManiac]

I would not say you would be fine but you would be better off.

Well this is just IMO

Grinding the stock shafts for full circle snap rings should help, but I never had a problem locked on 33s with 4.88s.

 

[doodahman]

Well this is just IMO

Grinding the stock shafts for full circle snap rings should help, but I never had a problem locked on 33s with 4.88s.

I'm actually still running 3.55s.:gee:
I could never justify putting gears in the D35.

 

[jrowell]

Let's suppose you were running a D30-CAD/D35-open with 33-12.50s and wanted to run a locker for some recreational rock-crawling(ie Moab) without having to spend a lot of money.
A Posi-Lock has been installed as well.
(Let's assume the driver also realizes the eminent danger of the skinny pedal in this situation.)

Now, obviously, a locker in the rear is not even remotely an option. But, if a drop-in locker were to be installed into the front D30, any ideas if the axle would survive for any period of time? What about the disconnect slider ring itself? Or, am I just dreaming?

This is my exact setup at the current time (front). I'm running a lockright in the front and have the split axle with a posi lock & the larger u-joints. I have run this setup for about 8 years. Never broke an axle (did have a cap come off jacking things up. Full circle c clips fixed that issue) I have wheeled all over Cali... JV, Rubicon, Ducy, even took it to moab.
It has been a great setup for me. I am not heavy on the skinny peddle.
With that said, I have a locked 44 in the rear. Having the open 35 in the rear obviously changes your situation. I would think that would put more stress on the front. My heep had a 35 when I bought it. I changed it out before doing any other mod. That's where I would start.

 

[xj92]

My last trip out I grenaded both axle shafts in my D30. They were stock spicer shafts with 760 joints. I'm on 33's with 4.88 gears, stock 2.72 transfer case. I'm fairly easy on the skinny pedal as well and wasn't doing anything crazy. Walking out of the trail and then back in with tools sucks. With that said, they survived for years before this happened. If money's tight I'd install a different rear axle (Chrysler 8.25 would be the overall cheapest, 97+ even has 29-spline axles) and lock it instead as long as you can live with the road manners of a rear locker. You wouldn't notice a front locker at all when in 2wd on the road, but you will with a rear locker.

 

[MoparManiac]

My last trip out I grenaded both axle shafts in my D30. They were stock spicer shafts with 760 joints. I'm on 33's with 4.88 gears, stock 2.72 transfer case. I'm fairly easy on the skinny pedal as well and wasn't doing anything crazy. Walking out of the trail and then back in with tools sucks. With that said, they survived for years before this happened.

Did you break the actual shaft or did the u-joint destroy the yokes?

 

[xj92]

Either the u-joints or the ears gave way, don't know which first, but they both exploded. The long side had twisted at the splines as well, but the ears/joint gave way before that completely broke. I was using standard stock axle shafts with half circle clips on the long & short sides, but the short side also had the caps tack welded in.