lift height vs. track bar length?

[IslanderOffRoad]

Thanks for the advice. Lots of recommendations for IRO, but I can't find one for XJ under 3 inches of lift:

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/XJ%20Track%20Bars.html

The JKS OGS126 looks interesting.

Thanks guys ... keep it coming. It is much appreciated.

I know they used to offer one because I had it. Call them and ask.

Also unless they've changed it since 2012, their axle end bolt doesn't work with the stock flag nut and they don't include one. If that's still the case I highly recommend making one.

 

[Jeep Driver]

I agree, only caveat that should be noted is the JKS trackbar will require you to drill out the stock frame side mount to a 9/16" hole. (install instructions are listed on their site).

I'm about to order the HD bar, 5/8 hole and move the current JKS from the MJ to the XJ.


Drilling the hole is a none issue.

 

[old_man]

Thanks for the recommendation. I will definitely make sure that the toe and caster are correct. No disrespect intended, but I disagree with you on centering the axle. I want to have the front and rear tires lined up together in the same track. It was centered before I lifted it, and I want it centered properly after the lift, and willing to put in the extra time/money for that. But again, I mean no disrespect. You've helped a lot of people on this forum, and I respect that.

Any recommendations on an adjustable track bar for 2" lift?

If I remember right, some people just drilled a different hole in the axle side mount to compensate for that much lift. I haven't had a stock suspension on my rig for 15 years so my memory is fuzzy.

Not offended. My opinion is based on personal experience and I love a good technical discussion. I'm an engineer. I had the axle offset quite a way while I was fabbing up my first long arm suspension and it drove fine. It did look weird going down the road with the front tires not sticking out the same amount as the rear. If you think about it, both sets of tires will be pointing straight forward, just offset.

 

[montanaman]

If I remember right, some people just drilled a different hole in the axle side mount to compensate for that much lift. I haven't had a stock suspension on my rig for 15 years so my memory is fuzzy.

Not offended. My opinion is based on personal experience and I love a good technical discussion. I'm an engineer. I had the axle offset quite a way while I was fabbing up my first long arm suspension and it drove fine. It did look weird going down the road with the front tires not sticking out the same amount as the rear. If you think about it, both sets of tires will be pointing straight forward, just offset.

Thanks for your reply. Re-drilling a new hole in the passenger-side bracket isn't an option, because it would be too close or even touch the old hole. I thought of welding a washer on, but I can't really access the back side of the bracket for the backside reinforcement.

As for the axle offset. When I think about it ... if the front wheels are to the left of the back wheels, then that will affect cornering. I can feel it on mine. It handles right turns better than left turns. I think that's because the left front wheel is sticking out more than the right front wheel, which would give it more stability in a right turn. In a left turn it would have the opposite effect, because the right front wheel is closer to the center.

I dunno ... call me crazy, but as long as my entire front end is taken apart, I might as well put it back together with the axle in the middle.

Thanks again to everyone for your advice ... I've learned a lot from this.

 

[trippled]

Keep in mind, if you've lifted then recenter the axle, if you hit a large bump (a dip maybe) the axle could hit the bump stops off set, or you may run into clearance issues you previously did not have. Some offset at ride height would not be all bad for this reason.

 

[montanaman]

Makes sense. Thanks for the heads up on that.

 

[montanaman]

Keep in mind, if you've lifted then recenter the axle, if you hit a large bump (a dip maybe) the axle could hit the bump stops off set, or you may run into clearance issues you previously did not have. Some offset at ride height would not be all bad for this reason.

The more I think about what you said, the more it would make sense to have a lower frameside bracket for the track bar. If the jeep is lifted 2", then have the frameside bracket stick down an additional 2". That would keep the track bar more horizontal, which would result in less sideways forces on the axle as the front end bounces up and down. Which would mean less bump-steer.

Of course, making the bracket 2" longer would require it be much stronger to handle whatever forces are put on the bottom end of it.

A lot of these aftermarket track bars come with a replacement frameside bracket. I just assumed it was only for additional strength or to create a different style of attachment for the bar. I wonder if the replacement brackets are also longer? I might look into Fabbing a lower bracket, or modifying an existing bracket to lower the frame end of the track bar.

 

[trippled]

Bump steer is the result of the drag link not being parallel with the track bar. The angle isnt so much the problem. If you dropped the bracket you would need to get a dropped pitman arm to match.

I cracked my stock bracket 3 times before I replaced it.

 

[montanaman]

Would a ZJ pitman arm provide any drop? If so, do you know how much?

Thanks for your help.

 

[trippled]

It's about 1 in.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

Bump steer is the result of the drag link not being parallel with the track bar. The angle isnt so much the problem. If you dropped the bracket you would need to get a dropped pitman arm to match.

I cracked my stock bracket 3 times before I replaced it.

He was addressing the issue of the side to side movement of the axle as a whole, not bumpsteer. Two different issues. There is zero point in purposely off setting your axle. With a properly set up suspension, the amount of horizontal movement will cause no issues like you described. My track bar is shorter than stock and I have no problems. The coil doesn't have much side to side room to mess with the bumpstops since they're nearly up against the frame. Front to back movement can cause that issue depending on lift height and control arm length.

 

[trippled]

He was addressing the issue of the side to side movement of the axle as a whole, not bumpsteer. Two different issues. There is zero point in purposely off setting your axle. With a properly set up suspension, the amount of horizontal movement will cause no issues like you described. My track bar is shorter than stock and I have no problems. The coil doesn't have much side to side room to mess with the bumpstops since they're nearly up against the frame. Front to back movement can cause that issue depending on lift height and control arm length.

He was talking about dropping the frame side mount, which would result in the drag link/track bar not being parallel,which would create bump steer.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

Many aftermarket kits come with a dropped frame side bracket such as RE. It doesn't cause issues since the angle isnt that much different. If it were an issue you'd see many more people complaining about it but the amount of drop creates negligible bumpsteer if any.

 

[WB9YZU]

XJ and TJ short arm lifts change Caster and Camber.
If retaining the stock arms, using the most forward adjustment for 2-3 " is usually pretty close. It also produces a decent driveline angle.

2-3" of lift usually want about 1/2 adjustment on the axle side hole.
Some aftermarket OEM tackbars are close.

The main issue Insee was tire wear, and that's down to proper adjustment of wheel center and toe adjustment..

All adjustments need to be made on the ground. Set Center (Right tire), then toe (left tire).
The two adjustments will intermix a bit, but after a few tweaks, the Jeep should roll
Down the road true.