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just thougth I would share since other are :)

well let me first say that dedenbear kuckles at 400degreee's will Not just slip on the tubes as they say they will. I have to take a flap wheel and take some OD off. I thought I had enough on one side and then put some super snoot grease on the tube and pulled the knuckle out of the oven and it barely slid on. just as I was taping it to get the 5deg from it, it seized!

Dedenbear insisted that at 400deg and a 3"OD tube that I had about a hour, at least 30 min of positioning time. WRONG, about 5-10 sec.

the second side I was a bit more rushed to do, as it was 9:30 last night. When I slide that one on I had about 3 sec of positioning. Not enough. I had it set to 3 deg and paniced. Grabbed the 5lb mini sledge and beat it to 5deg. just about 5 sec later there was no moving it no matter what I bet.

SO the pretty god aweful orange is all beat to crap on one side. Just means that I flap wheel it all off and either have the entire housing powder coated or just paint it when done here.

Again, heat alone is not enough and if you do use heat to expand the knuckles liek the manuf says to, you better be quick!

Heres the only picture from last night. When all said and done. Pinion at the tc and 5deg on the knuckles. I did only 5 cause I may lower the pinion a tad and get around 7-8 from the knuckles.

P1000218.jpg
 
ROBERTK said:
I thought I had enough on one side and then put some super snoot grease on the tube and pulled the knuckle out of the oven and it barely slid on.

What is going to happen to the grease when you start to weld on the c's ?
I would take them back off and clean all the grease out so you get a good weld.
 
David Taylor said:
What is going to happen to the grease when you start to weld on the c's ?
I would take them back off and clean all the grease out so you get a good weld.

it was a very thin layer and I would bet that 99% of it got scrapped off. I used some B&P cleaner and dont feel theres going to be any issues. Do you really thing there might be?
 
ROBERTK said:
well let me first say that dedenbear kuckles at 400degreee's will Not just slip on the tubes as they say they will. I have to take a flap wheel and take some OD off. I thought I had enough on one side and then put some super snoot grease on the tube and pulled the knuckle out of the oven and it barely slid on. just as I was taping it to get the 5deg from it, it seized!

Dedenbear insisted that at 400deg and a 3"OD tube that I had about a hour, at least 30 min of positioning time. WRONG, about 5-10 sec.

the second side I was a bit more rushed to do, as it was 9:30 last night. When I slide that one on I had about 3 sec of positioning. Not enough. I had it set to 3 deg and paniced. Grabbed the 5lb mini sledge and beat it to 5deg. just about 5 sec later there was no moving it no matter what I bet.

SO the pretty god aweful orange is all beat to crap on one side. Just means that I flap wheel it all off and either have the entire housing powder coated or just paint it when done here.

Again, heat alone is not enough and if you do use heat to expand the knuckles liek the manuf says to, you better be quick!

Heres the only picture from last night. When all said and done. Pinion at the tc and 5deg on the knuckles. I did only 5 cause I may lower the pinion a tad and get around 7-8 from the knuckles.

P1000218.jpg
were the knuckels actually at 400 degrees? we do the same thing here often and it takes a long while to get a big lump of metal to that high a temp without using a torch. If you do happen to need to take them off again Id say about 500 degrees in the oven for a hour and reheat it with a rose bud to lengthen its working time. but thats my .02
 
dzraces said:
were the knuckels actually at 400 degrees? we do the same thing here often and it takes a long while to get a big lump of metal to that high a temp without using a torch. If you do happen to need to take them off again Id say about 500 degrees in the oven for a hour and reheat it with a rose bud to lengthen its working time. but thats my .02

Well dedenbear said about a hour in the over. that too was way off. after a hour they were hot yes, but would not slide on at all. So I waited about 3 hours each knuckle. I would say they were very close to 400 if not 400.

And you say take em off like its poss? I used a very large mini sledge and couldnt get they to budge at all! lol
 
David Taylor said:
It was just a thought. See my sig.

oh.. lol

Well I think they collapsed enough to squeeze out any and all grease remaining.
 
well thanks to hillbilly here and his awesome 220V millermatic, The knuckles are on and so are all control arm brackets and well at that.

I Have to get me a 220. The 110 does ok but man after using that little bugger for 5 yrs and getting good with it, the larger 220 was like just point and shoot. Like wheels for years with 31's and then going 40's. Well unless your Avery.

P1000226.jpg

P1000227.jpg

P1000229.jpg

P1000232.jpg

P1000230.jpg
 
Ya stepping up to 220 is very nice wait till you get to use one of the new miller high frequency welders........youll never wana weld with anything else.

My boss just bought the shop a 100% duty cycle one and Im debating selling a jeep to get one myself
 
xjjeeper19 said:
When are you going to set up the gears?
Started today, then found that I didnt have the right size socket for the D60 pinion nut. Its a tad bit bigger then the 1-1/4 and yet smaller then all my larger sockets. SO tomorrow I go get the right one, then fiinish off the pinion and move on to the arb and cutting away the bearing cap for the air line and such.
 
I think it might be 1 5/16th...if I can remember correctly..I have one if you don't want to buy...
 
nice front lift blocks :laugh3:
 
XJ_ranger said:
nice front lift blocks :laugh3:

you refering to those daym ballistic fabrication coil/ca/shock brackets? WHen I saw them online I figured daym what a no brainer. like 50$ for a pair and its all three mounts in one and only 3" of tube space is needed. They swore it kept all geometry stock with the exception of the LCA being higher slighter higher on the tube.

Well daym they have just over 2" of lift built in them! Ugg. So now I have to fix the rear so its level. and the shock spacing was set for 1" (hiems basically) and I had to mod them to get the 1.5" bushing in them. oh well..
 
xjjeeper19 said:
I think it might be 1 5/16th...if I can remember correctly..I have one if you don't want to buy...

Just going to hit autozone for the right size. I have/had all the D30/D44/8.8 sockets and extra parts, now its just going to be a learning curve and buying spree to get all that for the new D60 and 14B.
 
so...

http://www.reidracing.biz/innerC.php


you thought your 3.000"+-.005 axle tube would play nicely with a 2.9975 bore?

did you mic the end of the tube? What was it to the half thou?
Did you turn the tubes to make them 3.000"?

Id bet the issues you had were more to do with the tubes than the knuckles...

:wave:

3 thou interferance is standard press fit for a bore that size...

id bet money that your tubes were a couppla thou oversized...
 
XJ_ranger said:
so...

http://www.reidracing.biz/innerC.php


you thought your 3.000"+-.005 axle tube would play nicely with a 2.9975 bore?

did you mic the end of the tube? What was it to the half thou?
Did you turn the tubes to make them 3.000"?

Id bet the issues you had were more to do with the tubes than the knuckles...

:wave:

3 thou interferance is standard press fit for a bore that size...

id bet money that your tubes were a couppla thou oversized...

Well I did try to mic the tubes and they were depending on what quad. I measured, was around 2.999 (yeah right like I could measure that, but it was tad under 3) to to like 3.002.

I agree that the Inner C's were prolly dead nuts on 2.996 or what ever Dedenbear said they were going to be.

I hit the tube with a flap wheel some in all directions trying to keep it semi round tube still. But they still siezed within seconds once slipped on.

In any case its done and I am happy.
 
well last picture post as its pretty much done.

Just need to figure out the draglink issue adn get a stock pitman arm to raise that side of the draglink more parelel to the trackbar.

these I just got and been waiting of for about 2 weeks
P1000249.jpg


P1000250.jpg


P1000252.jpg


P1000251.jpg


P1000254.jpg


and then the daymed draglink!
P1000255.jpg

the hiems froze in the ends at this length. About 1.5 inch too long though, so have to make a new one tonight.
 
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