Nope. Do the one piece shift upgrade. The Only nice thing about the posi-loc is you don't have to mess with installing new inner seals at the center chunk, buy extra seals if you do.
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Important
- Thread starter bshaw
- Start date
Nope. Do the one piece shift upgrade. The Only nice thing about the posi-loc is you don't have to mess with installing new inner seals at the center chunk, buy extra seals if you do.
IllianaXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southwest IN
You get budget 2-low with the posi-lock, but that's about the only benefit.
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
i will probably swap the whole front axle in that case. i think its a 3.07 axle and not 3.55's...i may just swap whatever axles are in my new xj when i find one (already have axles for my build lined up) so that i will have 3.55's.
- Location
- NE Indiana
mac '76 dodge Monaco' gyvr
- Location
- Warsaw, IN
Not what you were expecting when they said you were getting a new squad car huh. It's even the K9 unit
- Location
- NE Indiana
Might be faster than my impala!
mac 'old school' gyvr
mac 'old school' gyvr
89eliminator
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Delphi, IN
anyone here use lubelockers? worth the money?
POLAR_JEEP_04
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Ohio
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
and you can jump them
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
working a deal on an xj now....its ugly...real ugly. but the po tried to rattle can it. its from texas and is 100% rust and dent free.
why would anyone do that...ah well. the price is definitely right even if it might need paint and a motor. it is a non cali 2000...i have a motor that i can get for pennies...life should be good
why would anyone do that...ah well. the price is definitely right even if it might need paint and a motor. it is a non cali 2000...i have a motor that i can get for pennies...life should be good
- Location
- Michigan
Lube Lockers front and rear. Like.
I still pick up 8.8's...but then again I am 2 of you
my back has decided that I'm not up to those sorts of things anymore.
now I call fat friends
- Location
- Southern Indiana
- Location
- Southern Indiana
- Location
- Coshocton, OH
I've been told once you rattle can, you'll have to completely strip to do any kind of true paint job again. Something about the auto paint not sticking to rattle can...
altrocker1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Iowa
i don't know if thats true or not, but i was going to sand it down to the old paint before i painted it anyway, so that doesn't bother me. it looks like the kid wanted to do a flat black spray job and it went really wrong. we shook hands on a deal tonight so i'm going to go pick it up tomorrow with a dolly.
RedHeep
NAXJA #1499
- Location
- Landenberg, PA
You can sand as long as you don't go through the factory primer. No need to go to bare metal, just scuff the clearcoat and shoot it.
Unless you're doing a concourse restoration on a $500 XJ
K5Matt
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bremen, Indiana
You can sand as long as you don't go through the factory primer. No need to go to bare metal, just scuff the clearcoat and shoot it.
Unless you're doing a concourse restoration on a $500 XJ
^This.
For previously painted parts, I like to use a red scotch-brite first, then 220 grit, then 400 grit sandpaper.
Rust spots get sanded to bare metal(36>80>150>220), apply some glazing putty to fill any pitting or sanding scratches, sand that with 220, then 400. Sometimes 150 if I applied too much glaze.
Lastly, use a good pre-clean solvent, then shoot your primer.
For the white xj I've been rehabbing, I've been using Dupli-Color Perfect Match aerosol primer and paint. The clear they offer isn't good for an overall(not suprised; designed more for spot repairs), so I will use an overall automotive clear w/ a paint gun when I'm done painting. Been satisfied with the primer and paint so far.
I like to sand the primer and the basecoat(color-coat) with 1500 wetdry sandpaper. Gets any dirt, etc. gone, and leaves a smooth, clean surface for the next step.
k5 'enjoys bodywork' matt
Last edited:
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
I still do... I have 50 pounds on you though.
And I've been getting stronger recently, not weaker. I know I couldn't pick up a 4.0 at 26, I can now at 28, if the house keeps beating me into shape I should be able to handle the full longblock in a few months.
Yes and yes.
Million dollar question: did he do any prep or just wash it and spray rattle can?
If he didn't sand the original paint, 99% chance you can buy a gallon of acetone and a case of shop towels and get it all off. Most rattle can is readily soluble in acetone, it just comes right off.
Works on sticker residue too... I put a new hatch on the XJ last week. Had a bunch of the PO's political stickers on it. Peeled most off, scraped the rest with a plastic spudger to prevent clearcoat damage, then hit it with acetone and a shop towel, 5 seconds later, no stickum.
Note that this does NOT apply to single stage paint... many of those are acetone soluble too, so you lose everything.
