I guess PO didn't change the oil much

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

.....I'll flush it out keeping an eye on oil pressure (mechanical gauge in dash) and then plan to drop the pan (need to replace pan gasket anyway leaks like crazy and backflush the oil pickup to clean the screen out......

Good idea to drop the pan if possible. The pick-up screen
is very close to the pan bottom, so it may be partially
clogged already. (I had this happen to a Mustang once.)

Since the head looks this bad, the pan has to be full
of gunk too....

 

[bails85]

What is a good oil to use to prevent this. My engine is freshly rebuilt. Don't want to se this in the future.

 

[ktwalker01]

What is a good oil to use to prevent this. My engine is freshly rebuilt. Don't want to se this in the future.

When I pulled my valve cover on my 99 with 210k on the clock everything looked clean as it should. To answer your question just change your oil frequently I dont know what the po put in it at first but ive run castrol then rotella and now I run mobile 1 5w30.

 

[cruiser54]

What is a good oil to use to prevent this. My engine is freshly rebuilt. Don't want to se this in the future.

Rotella and Wix go together like peas and carrots. And, don't skip oil changes.

 

[Ecomike]

What is a good oil to use to prevent this. My engine is freshly rebuilt. Don't want to se this in the future.

If the entire engine has been rebuilt, ALL the seals!!!!, then a true synthectic oil is best. If any of the seals were not replaced, stay with old tech dyno oil to avoid seal and o'ring leaks!!!!

I would run a high zinc, ZDDP break in oil if it has not already been run. Run about 500 miles with a break in oil , then drain and change the oil and filter. Few oils have the high ZDDP now, but the motorcylce oils seem to still have it. Check the labels, or buy and add a ZDDP additive!!!!

 

[Johnnie Walker]

I use amsoil AMO (10w-40 w/ added zddp). With a new one you shouldn't have to run 40 weight. But I would go with amsoil for sure. Pick what you feel is best and run with it. Then go with a Napa gold/Wix/Baldwin/Donaldson filter.

 

[kastein]

I would use a suction tool of some sort to clean out the oil passages between the lifters. May be difficult to reach them without pulling the head, but there was SERIOUS sludge/scale/varnish buildup in my ~240k motor when I tore it down a while ago.

Here's one scoop of it from one of the passages between the lifters:

This was after ~30k miles of losing a couple quarts a week from leakage and filling it back up. I was effectively changing the oil every 1500 miles.

 

[GregGA]

Cruiser: at what mileage did you purchase that XJ? I know you are a fanatic on oil changes and quality of oil/filters, so this could not be from your maintenance.

I just pulled my valve cover today to change the gasket and stop a small leak. Everything looks good. I am just curious as to what kind of neglect produces that kind of crap. I have owned mine since 87 and have 114K miles on it.

 

[cruiser54]

175,000 mile junkyard motor in one and 154,000 mile original motor in the other.

 

[GregGA]

One tough engine!

 

[WB9YZU]

Typical Pensoil soil damage combined with poor oil change rates. On older V8's I saw this on engines with 70K on them and you would have to pry the valve covers off with a pry bar the stuff as it was so deep.

The damage is done, don't make it any worse than it already is.

Clean up with scrapper and vacuum as best you can. Do not run a cleaner though the engine; you will loosen this stuff up and deposit this crap (Yes it is also elsewhere in the engine) in the bottom end. I have seen this stuff destroy the oil seals on the valves, and get past the oil filter into the mains and gaul them up. That may already have happened, but you don't have to make it worse by using a high powered detergent in the engine and sending it all downstream.

Put in a good quality (but cheap) oil + a cheap oil filter and start changing it every 1K and it should be OK. A rebuild is in your future depending on how much oil consumption is acceptable to you and how low the oil pressure is @ present.

 

[cruiser54]

One tough engine!

Yep. Rotella 15-40, Napa Gold and Restore. I'm good to go.

 

[gajeepguy]

Mine doesn't seem to like the 15w40 even thinned with MMO. Maybe need to go back to 10-30

 

[cruiser54]

Mine doesn't seem to like the 15w40 even thinned with MMO. Maybe need to go back to 10-30

Try the Restore if you have a lifter tick.

What oil filter are you using?

 

[gajeepguy]

Purolator classic. Slight tick on cold start but goes away after a few seconds. Never noticed it before the rotella and mmo

 

[cruiser54]

Purolator classic. Slight tick on cold start but goes away after a few seconds. Never noticed it before the rotella and mmo

I got erid of my tick using 15-40 Rotella and MMO. Just takes time for it to clean out the lifter. The weight of the oil isn't the real issue.

 

[gajeepguy]

Cool, thanks! I won't worry about it too much then and just keep an eye on things.

 

[cruiser54]

If it doesn't clear up in 1,000 miles, let us know. There is still hope.

 

[gajeepguy]

If it doesn't clear up in 1,000 miles, let us know. There is still hope.

It hasn't been nearly that many miles. Put 200 miles on a pint added to crankcase then changed oil and only about 100 miles on the new change with rotella and 1 qt MMO so here's hoping!

:fingers crossed:

 

[cruiser54]

Go for it. Do you get a tick sometimes on cold starting that will cause a mis-fire?