HP44... what do i have here (+ questions)

[Begster]

I'm fairly certain that the Ford Stub shaft will work fine in the Chevy small bearing spindles. I'm running waggy stub shafts in my Chevy spindles.

I'm guessing they're all the same.

And I'm 100% positive they will not work fine. The waggy shaft works with the chevy because the chevy/fsj stuff are identical. The ford vs. chevy/fsj stuff is not.

The length of the shaft is different. A ford shaft is shorter, and if you put it in a chevy spindle, the splines will not extend past the hub body and there will be no possible way to get the snap ring on.

Cruisinillusion expereinced this in his build thread a number of years ago, and I compared the ford stubs out of my axle with the FSJ stubs I had from the axle I took the flat tops from, and they were different lengths. The spindle always determines the stub shaft.

 

[John D]

X2, my Ford and Chevy stubs were different.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

this will see road miles, including highway. with lockouts, will it be necessary to turn the knuckles? or can i build it to the proper castor, and call it good?

 

[John D]

What is the plan for steering? Depending on the amount of lift your d-shaft angle will be whacked if you just build it at the correct caster. You won't have vibes on road because of the lockouts, but when you engage them you could have bind. Tough call, did you say you were going to leave it full-width or narrow it?

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

some flashlight pictures.

ribs = HD?

passenger knuckle

driver knuckle drilled and tapped

everything else... everything but caliper and lock outs

i thought... briefly... about keeping it 3/4 ton because i have most of the parts. but i dont see a need to run a 60 or 14 bolt rear end on 35s. and i wouldnt be able to run 15s would i?

from what ive read, stock castor is around 5-7 degrees. but for driving bigger tires on the street, ive been told to run a little more, 10-12. is this accurate? turning the Cs will be a pain in the ass it looks... labor intensive, but not exspensive. just do it?

as for steering, i want to run TREs. dont want to narrow.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

verified last night that it has the 1/2 thick axle tubes. winning. removed the remaining knuckle and BJs. they came out REALLY easy, obviously werent factory.

my stub shafts on all of my shafts appeared to be identical to the ones a buddy had as spares for his 44.

im torn between looking for ford knuckles and running what i got, or finding chevy/waggy flat top knuckles and getting new stub shafts. are there factory fat top ford knuckles, other than the reid ones?

 

[XJLI]

are there factory fat top ford knuckles, other than the reid ones?

78-79 F250 stockers... 8 lug.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

78-79 F250 stockers... 8 lug.

i meant to imply for 8 lug. :twak:


no, i assume.

 

[XJLI]

i meant to imply for 8 lug. :twak:

no, i assume.

you got it. reids only. 5 hundo for a pair :rattle:they are really nice tho..

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

you got it. reids only. 5 hundo for a pair :rattle:they are really nice tho..

at first glance... i think chevy would be a better alternative if i end up going the new route. the ford ones arent clearanced for CTMs, and are tapered from the bottom up. and more exspensive.

do you still have your ford knuckles john, or did you trash them?

 

[TRCM]

You can use all mid 80's Dodge W150/Ramcharger parts.

Flat top knuckles, 5x5.5, and they're cheap since it's very similar to Chevy stuff.

No need to mix/match parts. Much easier to find this then 70s Chevy small bearing spindles.

Shoot, use mid 70-80 dodge fulltime 4wd stuff, and you can have the same knuckles but in a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern as well, but you will have to use milemarker hubs, or just keep it full time.

 

[hot_rod_hooligans]

Just a heads up, if you end up going with the Chevy knuckles, do yourself a favor and get the calipers from about an 85 K20. They are only about $15 each(@O'Reilly), and use a 3 5/32" piston vs 2 15/16", completely bolt on, pads are also mix-n-match-able.

Here is my write up with lots of pics:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/b...4-chevy-brakes-waggy-brakes-included-1195206/

I finally settled on 3/4 ton calipers with 1/2 ton pads(52 series), the large piston/small pad should give me more surface pressure at the pad resulting in better stopping, where as a large pad/small piston would give me more pad life.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

whoa.... my mind was just blown. too many options. lol.

looks like i need to settle on a knuckle and go from there.

 

[John D]

looks like i need to settle on a knuckle and go from there.

or just keep watching Craigslist and make your decision based on availability. You know what will work now, just wait for the parts to show up.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

or just keep watching Craigslist and make your decision based on availability. You know what will work now, just wait for the parts to show up.

do you still have your old for knuckles?

 

[John D]

No, sorry. I sold the axles and turn the Ford outers into beer along with the spindles and drum brakes - mine was a '75.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

No, sorry. I sold the axles and turn the Ford outers into beer along with the spindles and drum brakes - mine was a '75.

keep an eye out for me....


just for clarification:
- i cannot run a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern with 3/4 ton knuckles, correct?
- can i run a 15" rim with 3/4 ton stuff? these rotors look huge...
- what 8 bolt rears would match? 14 bolt, 60... anything else?

 

[John D]

PM sent...

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

PM sent...

thanks.

i listed them for sale/trade on GL4x4, though i have no idea what they are worth. any thoughts on what i can get?

i figure, if i can get the parts i need/want in a trade im not losing out. ill either take ford or chevy. really undecided... as i dont want to have to go through the process of changing stub shafts considering how many spares i have, but chevy stuff is looking like a cheaper option. with either option, i think im going to run a Y link OTK until i feel the need to step up to high steer, and something fancy like reids if i dont end up with flat tops. just waiting on the right deal i suppose. :smoker:



this is geared to 4.10s, and im pretty confident it is some sort of LSD, i can see spiders inside the case. i was planning to use it. but what is it? the case has "7 05 78 A H 23431 X" stamped on it, these are the only markings. that... and this little dot:

see the little dot at about 6 o'clock from the shaft in the middle of the picture? you cant see in the picture, but the shaft looks like its been welded on. and the little dot makes me think it was arc welding, and they knicked it with the stick. the other side has signs of welding too, but it was the little dot that prompted me to take a closer look. what does this shaft do? and why would someone weld on it?

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

the more i look at these... the more i think i have chevy flat tops.

these are tapered from the top down, ford was tapered from the bottom up, werent they?

a buddy brought his extra lock outs over and they fit in the 8 lug hub. in guessing i have the smaller spindle. im saving all of Mr.N's pages. i read a little... go to my shed, and then have to come back to campus to check again (no web at my apartment)...

do ford 8 lug and 5 lug hubs fit onto the same spindle?

EDIT:
no... i read the 8 lug is bigger. that would mean these are probably chevy 8 lug hubs, which (i think take the same spindle as 6 lug and ford 5 lug) and im guessing... chevy disks?