How to get 4.5" lift with loads of articulation?

[xriide]

So I am looking to get 4.5-5" of lift and also lots of articulation, or flex.
And I am SO lost at where to go.

I'm new here, and have searched, and while I have read lots I feel more lost now than ever.
Right now I am running the old man EMU lift, 2.5" coils up front. In the rear I am running their 2.5" full leaf pack, plus their full length add a leaf, it's net me about 5" of lift. I also switched to sliders in the rear. Before I added the extra leaf and sliders I could articulate the rear to have one shock maxed out extended and one maxed out compressed. But now I get nothing, MAYBE an inch difference between the two side.

This is about as much movement as I can get now, there is about 10" of elevation difference between the two rear tires.

Even bouncing on the hitch I can't get it to move much at all. The leafs slide free in the sliders as I put those in first. I am reusing the leaf retainer clips and they are quite sung now.

I am well into the point of tossing my current lift on the curb with a free sign. If I can salvage some of what I have, perfect. But in the end, I just want some articulation, lots of it, but still be planted. And like everyone else I want to spend as little as I can.
My jeep see's almost no mileage, 1200 miles a year tops. And I am more back woods hunting trails and off camber hills type riding.

Being in Canada I get shafted on parts too, so everything is basically twice as expensive for me.

I was thinking Rough country long arms for the front. With rough country coils.
I was going to go for clayton springs, but they want as much for shipping as they do the springs, so it's just not worth it.
For the rear, I want to keep the sliders as I think the concept is sound, but at this point I will just go for whatever works the best. The rear is where I am completely lost, and get further into the dark the more I read.

For shocks, I have relocation brackets for the rear. And I would love if they kept me planted going far to fast for oil lease roads. But I don't need to keep up to my buddy in a raptor (although would be nice, maybe a few years).

I can fab some stuff. But kits are better for me from a time perspective alone.
I would go coils in the rear, but it's just more money and time than I can invest right now.

Thanks for helping a noob.

 

[ingenio]

Remove the AAL ....it is too thick....wont flex at all
I had the same problem with my OME set up
I wanted 4.5 lift so I removed the AAL and installed longer than stock shackles and shackle relocation brackets
Good flex and nice ride....sporty ride when paired with bilsteins.....
Front I installed Rusty's 4.5 coils w/ clayton's long arms....

But for your intended use I would use drop brackets in the front....provides nice flex/ drop

 

[xriide]

The AAL is the same thickness as the other leafs.

I was trying to avoid getting my lift from longer shackles and shackle relocations, to keep my sliders. But if the sliders are actually hindering me I will ditch them.

Everywhere I have read says that the drop brackets in the front suck, hinder flex, and just get hung up on everything. I really have no issue with the few extra bucks to get long arms over drop brackets.

And where can I order the bilsteins from? I'll need somewhere that lists the collapsed and extended lengths since I will be running relocation mounts for the shocks in the rear.

 

[SolarBell]

Bilstein's site lists all the lengths for all their models.

I've never seen a single comment that drop brackets hinder flex. Hung up on stuff, yes (depending on who you talk to). Search on that one as its not worth re-hashing here.

Typically, the most flex on leafs will come from leaf packs that at normal ride height sit with only a slight arch. An add-a-leaf will give you lift, but not help you get there. Or find a new leaf pack that is made up of many thin leafs that move easily.

Just putting it out there - flex in the front is great until you drop out a wheel and the coil is just hanging there.

 

[surf2snow]

For what I’ve learned (read / heard) by adding a full length leaf you are making a stiffer leaf pack great for hauling heavy loads but not for flex. Also are you running sway bars? I know that some run in the front to force the rear to flex.
And I’m sure that someone will correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[Cottontail]

I have plenty of flex and I'm at about 5.5. I used a Rubicon Express 3.5" kit, Dodge Ram shackles (junkyard) in the rear to get another 2", then Teraflex spacers in the front for those 2". I have on Chevy 1500 brake lines in the front, which give me plenty of room for droop. I have no front sway bar. I am running JK Rubicon take off shocks. (the two photos of the droop was taken before I got the new brake lines. I was kind of using my old ones as limit straps :nono

 

[donthelegend]

Looks like the rear springs are too stiff compared to the fronts (due to the AAL) and so now the front does all the work. Remove the AAL. If you need that extra lift, find different springs. I'd also try removing the bolt from the spring retainer temporarily to see how it flexes when the leafs can move a bit more. It should be better but I don't know how much.

A front sway bar like the Currie anti rock would also help even things out.

Long arms are the ticket to lots of front flex, but good short arms and drop brackets should give you all the usable flex you need if you'd rather go that route.
As someone already pointed out, front flex should be limited to where the coil spring unseats. Once there's no weight on that corner, you aren't gaining much by having more flex.

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

so... you want to raise the front to match the rear? while there isnt an issue with lifting the front, that in itself isnt going to make the rear flex better.

you need to remove the AAL. you have a quality leaf pack, i wouldnt pitch it. and to get the desired lift, i suggest shackle relocation brackets and the appropriate shackle. a leaf that has minimal arc at ride height but doesnt invert before full bump will give you the best flex. i run a 3.5" leaf spring, i dont see why your 2.5" OME cant be made to work. i also run both the shackle relocation brackets and control arm drop brackets on an RE 4.5" lift... much better than being that high without them.

Everywhere I have read says that the drop brackets in the front suck, hinder flex, and just get hung up on everything. I really have no issue with the few extra bucks to get long arms over drop brackets.

your reading the wrong places... itll be plenty for your use.

 

[xriide]

So is a new leaf pack or longer shackles better?

No love for the sliders eh.

Getting the front to the right height is a lot easier although I'm avoiding using a spacer since it will allow the spring to fall out sooner. I had thought about welding the lower perch on something to give the couple inches. I had it in my mind that spacers would prevent the last couple inches of flex because the spring would sag out of the top earlier. But now I'm not sure that it's really any different than a longer spring.

I know the control arm drop brackets work, but it's not much more money or work to go long arms, it certainly must be worth it.
And I'll run limit straps for sure.

 

[93gc40]

The AAL is the same thickness as the other leafs.

I was trying to avoid getting my lift from longer shackles and shackle relocations, to keep my sliders. But if the sliders are actually hindering me I will ditch them.

Everywhere I have read says that the drop brackets in the front suck, hinder flex, and just get hung up on everything. I really have no issue with the few extra bucks to get long arms over drop brackets.

And where can I order the bilsteins from? I'll need somewhere that lists the collapsed and extended lengths since I will be running relocation mounts for the shocks in the rear.

AAL might be the same thickness.. That does nbot mean it is the same spring rate. It's NOT, it work by dramatically increasing spring rate, making it stiffer and less flexible.
If you want to keep the sliders you are going to need more flexible rear springs. That means a pack with less arch, probably more and thinner leaves and most likely a longer pack. It's up to you which way you go. But you have got to quit saying I want more flex, but refuse to consider doing the things to get the flex. Fact is if you want front end type flex in the rear of an XJ, you will only get there by installing the same type of suspension in the rear as you have up front. That means COILS and long arms front and rear. Leaf suspensions are NOT the most flexy of suspension.

Fact is that Drop brackets are a good option, Long arms are better. Yeah they can hang up on rock occasionally. The same rock that Bangs and bend your long arms, can snag the mounts. But the Long arm will be less likely to hang-up.

Go to the bilstien site, find the shocks you want then go to a dealer and order them.

 

[xriide]

Re: Re: How to get 4.5" lift with loads of articulation?

If you want to keep the sliders you are going to need more flexible rear springs. That means a pack with less arch, probably more and thinner leaves and most likely a longer pack. It's up to you which way you go. But you have got to quit saying I want more flex, but refuse to consider doing the things to get the flex. Fact is if you want front end type flex in the rear of an XJ, you will only get there by installing the same type of suspension in the rear as you have up front. That means COILS and long arms front and rear. Leaf suspensions are NOT the most flexy of suspension.

Fact is that Drop brackets are a good option, Long arms are better. Yeah they can hang up on rock occasionally. The same rock that Bangs and bend your long arms, can snag the mounts. But the Long arm will be less likely to hang-up.

Go to the bilstien site, find the shocks you want then go to a dealer and order them.

I'll ditch the sliders. Just seems easier. I thought a new pack with the sliders might be better, but I dunno.

I would love to go coils in the rear, but all the kits I see are well over 2k. So trying to get the best I can from leafs.

 

[donthelegend]

The sliders aren't the problem, but if you want to keep them you need different leaf packs.

Shackles and relocation brackets allow you to remove the AAL, keep the rest of your spring pack, and still get the lift you want.

Just different ways to accomplish the same goal.

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

Everywhere I have read says that the drop brackets in the front suck and just get hung up on everything. I really have no issue with the few extra bucks to get long arms over drop brackets.

And where can I order the bilsteins from? I'll need somewhere that lists the collapsed and extended lengths since I will be running relocation mounts for the shocks in the rear.

you're reading in the right place. those brackets suck. I finally had a friend who was cheap enough to get a set. he doesn't even wheel hard, just goes through rocky trails like the rubicon. he got hung up everywhere on places he used to glide over. useless mod if you're going to see rocks. a month later, he now has long arms and wishes he had listened to me in the first place. BUT. if you're not rock crawling, the drop brackets are a viable option for more comfort and articulation

I got my bilsteins from summit. good customer service, fast shipping, and all ext/coll lengths listed

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

you're reading in the right place. those brackets suck. I finally had a friend who was cheap enough to get a set. he doesn't even wheel hard, just goes through rocky trails like the rubicon. he got hung up everywhere on places he used to glide over. useless mod if you're going to see rocks. a month later, he now has long arms and wishes he had listened to me in the first place. BUT. if you're not rock crawling, the drop brackets are a viable option for more comfort and articulation

I got my bilsteins from summit. good customer service, fast shipping, and all ext/coll lengths listed

while ill add that it is bone jaring to land on them...

i think this is highly exaggerated. but we can agree to disagree.

 

[xriide]

while ill add that it is bone jaring to land on them...

i think this is highly exaggerated. but we can agree to disagree.

But with that said, If I have zero problems paying the extra for long arms, is there any reason not to go long arms? Even if just inexpensive ones like Rough Country?

What is this unloading that I read happens with the trailing arm set up like the Rough Country long arms.


I think clayton coils up front. with RC long arms, Bilstien shocks.
For the rear, either a lift shackle and shackle relocation bracket, or new leafs with my sliders.

Clayton leafs for the rear are about 500, a lift shackle and relocation is about 200.
I have a feeling the claytons with sliders will ride nicer, and probably wheel the same?

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

But with that said, If I have zero problems paying the extra for long arms, is there any reason not to go long arms? Even if just inexpensive ones like Rough Country?

What is this unloading that I read happens with the trailing arm set up like the Rough Country long arms.


I think clayton coils up front. with RC long arms, Bilstien shocks.
For the rear, either a lift shackle and shackle relocation bracket, or new leafs with my sliders.

Clayton leafs for the rear are about 500, a lift shackle and relocation is about 200.
I have a feeling the claytons with sliders will ride nicer, and probably wheel the same?

if you can justify the money the definitely go long arm. but i would stray away from rough country if possible. their joints are notorious for premature failure.

you have OME leafs, right? id keep those and ditch the sliders.

 

[xriide]

if you can justify the money the definitely go long arm. but i would stray away from rough country if possible. their joints are notorious for premature failure.

you have OME leafs, right? id keep those and ditch the sliders.

This jeep sees almost no miles, I was reading how some of their joints start to fail around the 30k mile point, but man that will take me 10+ years to put on.

Yes OME.
I'll ditch the sliders I guess, Maybe put that extra couple hundred into the long arms? Or gas tank skid.

For shackles and the relocation bracket, what are good ones?

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

while ill add that it is bone jaring to land on them...

i think this is highly exaggerated. but we can agree to disagree.

What part would be exaggerated? Guy has short arms. Doesn't hang them going through a trail. Gets drop brackets. Ride quality improves but he gets hung up on the same trail so much that he changed over to long arms the next month. Drop brackets work, but at the cost of clearance. If the OP is fine with the cost of long arms then that should be encouraged

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

OP it sounds like you've got a ton of basic questions. You've got a general idea but we can't tell you what to buy really. Just gotta keep researching and eventually you'll be able to decide for yourself which products are worth it for you and which ones aren't. Most of it is trial and error. But if you're thinking bilsteins and Clayton products, rough country does not belong in your build

 

[a1racer]

Keep the sliders and get a set of quality leafs in the rear or hit the junkyard for parts for a bastard pack. But your leaf setup now is to stiff with that add a leaf and super tight retainers.

You could also try some graphite between the leafs to loosen them up a bit but lift does not = flex. As others have said remove the aal get some long arms for the front or build a 3 link.