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Homemade TMR Frame Stiffeners

I hope to god you are kidding...

I R dead serious.....:doh:


The plate was cut with cutting wheels and sawzall.





Im going to build a new bumper due to aproach angle, and weight. Even though I made it to have a better angle then any bumper you can buy, I still want more. That and the bumper weights 100lbs, without the winch. Tis a bit of a pig.
 
how did this turn out? (bumper and all) ...just curious and going to be making some of my own TMR front unibody stiffeners
 
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Looks great. I just picked up a set of RuffStuff stiffeners http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/chassis-channel-reinforcement-p-291.html

I might as well give this a shot while the welder is out. Since I don't have any steel lying around, would you recommend going thicker than 1/8" ? Or better yet, any reason not to?


Also, would removing the grounds be sufficient to reduce any risk of frying anything in your opinion?
 
LI might as well give this a shot while the welder is out. Since I don't have any steel lying around, would you recommend going thicker than 1/8" ? Or better yet, any reason not to?

cost to benefit ratio of 1/8" or bigger. btw, it'd be cheaper to buy sheet metal than 1/8" exactly... and 11g is .1196" thick. no... i haven't looked into this at all.:rolleyes:
 
how did this turn out? (bumper and all) ...just curious and going to be making some of my own TMR front unibody stiffeners
I have not managed to rip the frame from the frame yet, so thats always a good sign.:gee:



Seriously though, I guess it turned out fine? I dont think I could feel any difference in frame flex due to all the other stuff such as skid plates, bumpers and other frame plating. So is it really worth it? I think so. I will adventually be putting in a cage and plan on tying them into the front framerails, so it was needed for that.

I also need to add some sort of connection piece to bridge between the TnT frame stiffeners and the front stiffeners I made. Im thinking about copying JeepFreak and what he did:
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Looks great. I just picked up a set of RuffStuff stiffeners http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/chassis-channel-reinforcement-p-291.html

I might as well give this a shot while the welder is out. Since I don't have any steel lying around, would you recommend going thicker than 1/8" ? Or better yet, any reason not to?


Also, would removing the grounds be sufficient to reduce any risk of frying anything in your opinion?
Anything thicker then 1/8'' is not only heavy and overkill, its also going to be a pita to weld onto the stock "framerails."
 
Game. Set. Match.

Work looks excellent. I have a access to a portable sandblaster. Should help a lot with removal of the undercoating and all that crap.


A propane or map gas torch can be used to soften undercoating and then scraped off with a stiff blade. This works fast and is easy to clean up.
Brake cleaner cleans off remaining black residue.
 
Looks great. I just picked up a set of RuffStuff stiffeners http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/chassis-channel-reinforcement-p-291.html

I might as well give this a shot while the welder is out. Since I don't have any steel lying around, would you recommend going thicker than 1/8" ? Or better yet, any reason not to?


Also, would removing the grounds be sufficient to reduce any risk of frying anything in your opinion?

I wouldnt put anything less than 1/4".

I remove the battery from the vehicle before welding, and un-plug the ECM just be safe.

Starboard M just fancies himself a desert racer, and used 1/8" - but he forgot the dimple dyes to make it strong enough! unless your an engineer, I wouldnt want to use less than 1/4" - because it might not be strong enough!



1/8" is more than fine, and I've never disconected the battery...
 
1/4" is for upper control arms. LCAs and framerails need 5/16" minimum. That last 1/16" is vital.

Plus, it's down low, so it lowers both your CG and your ride height.

Glad you put the disclaimer about engineers, because they KNOW better than to try and use anything less than 1/4".

I wouldnt put anything less than 1/4".

I remove the battery from the vehicle before welding, and un-plug the ECM just be safe.

Starboard M just fancies himself a desert racer, and used 1/8" - but he forgot the dimple dyes to make it strong enough! unless your an engineer, I wouldnt want to use less than 1/4" - because it might not be strong enough!



1/8" is more than fine, and I've never disconected the battery...
 
uhm, strong enough for what?
Are you being sarcastic?... 5/16" plate to the bottom? what in the hell are you doing with your rig that you need that kind of steel *anywhere* on an XJ?
 
uhm, strong enough for what?
Are you being sarcastic?... 5/16" plate to the bottom? what in the hell are you doing with your rig that you need that kind of steel *anywhere* on an XJ?

Ive got alot of 1/2" plate that I am going to use. I am not worried about weight, because it will have a V8. My cage is going to be made out of 2", 1/4" wall DOM tubing. Ill be safe for sure.
 
1/4" is for upper control arms. LCAs and framerails need 5/16" minimum. That last 1/16" is vital.

Plus, it's down low, so it lowers both your CG and your ride height.

Glad you put the disclaimer about engineers, because they KNOW better than to try and use anything less than 1/4".

I read on the internet that 1/4'' is way to weak for control arms, anything less then 1/2'' will break.


Like XJ ranger said, I am pretty big into the desert racing, and want to go fast. :passgas: The 1/4'' I had just wouldnt work for my needs.


I still want to know what Phil and XJ Ranger know about engineering. Do they even know what that means? :bs:
 
alright, alright, on a more serious note, let's see the newest bumper, it seems like your last one was a naxja favorite
 
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