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Home Fabbed Bumper

We'll just have to wait and see what happens. I'm not really sure which direction I will be going. Maybe I will have the cable clamps hardened.......lol....Joke.

Thanks for all your help. I will post pics after I redo the clevis mounts.
 
PornstaR said:
I belive this is what he means. I did this on mine when i built it. The recovery point is two peices. The 1/2" on the right side goes through and is the bracket. Added a peice to the left side (another 1/2"). 2 reasons for adding it.
1- so it would have no chance on bending either side to side
2- so the clevis wouldnt bang around and would fit much tighter


1/2"??? as in .5"???? And I thought I was going overkill with 1/4" :)
 
fuzzydog said:
PornstaR said:
I belive this is what he means. I did this on mine when i built it. The recovery point is two peices. The 1/2" on the right side goes through and is the bracket. Added a peice to the left side (another 1/2"). 2 reasons for adding it.
1- so it would have no chance on bending either side to side
2- so the clevis wouldnt bang around and would fit much tighter

1/2"??? as in .5"???? And I thought I was going overkill with 1/4" :)
Yep 1/2in which makes my attachement point for my clevis to be 1in thick. Wanted to be able to pull sideways with a good jerk and not have to worry about draging the intire bumper with brackets to one side. Heres a close up pic before i painted it.

ea0195e5.jpg
 
How are you guys cutting through the face of the bumper so nicely? With an angle grinder? I have pretty basic tools to work with but nobody explains in their write ups how cut through the face to weld the frame mounts on...

If I don't have the right tools, I was thinking about bolting my bumper to my frame mounts...bad idea? Basically what I was thinking for this... have my frame mounts extend out, then bolt 2 pieces of angle to both mounts (4 pieces total). Drill through the face of the bumper and the angle iron, and bolt it up...Have a recovery point tied into the mounts as well bolted obviously if I have to...

Only probably is I want a front class 3 receiver in my bumper, and that pretty much needs to be cut through the face of the bumper, so what the hell do I do!?

Basically what I plan on doing as far as the mounts go, 3 stock holes each side, steering box tie in... What do I do for the passenger side? Drill through the frame and make a nut strip to sandwich the rail? I haven't took my front bumper off so I don't know what it looks like for mounting... all the pictures I have seen are just the drivers side tieing into the steering box...

There is a link a couple posts above where the guy tied into the rad support, I will probably do that as well...
 
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J-Roc said:
How are you guys cutting through the face of the bumper so nicely? With an angle grinder? I have pretty basic tools to work with but nobody explains in their write ups how cut through the face to weld the frame mounts on...

I either use a 3" air cutter for the smaller holes in the face of the bumper like this:

90114.gif


or my plasma cutter


here, i'll give you a short writeup how i did mine with the 3" cutter before i had a plasma. with pics :)

cutting for a receiver:

DSC07732.JPG


i drilled holes at all 4 corners all the way thru, so it would line up on both sides

DSC07748.JPG


then cut

DSC07756.JPG


DSC07773.JPG


done
DSC07789.JPG


same thing for my brackets, exscept i drilled smaller holes at each end of the angle I used for my rear bumper

DSC08578.JPG


HTH
 
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I did the same thing, except using a metal-cutting blade on a regular circular saw.

bumper8.jpg


For that matter, I did all the cuts on the bumper with the circular saw, even the mitered edges for the angled sides.

bumper14.jpg


Not a bad way to go, certainly a lot cleaner than a torch, just be sure to avoid blindness or clothing fires from the sparks.
 
So drilling is the secret... I thought you guys were wizzs with angle grinders HAHAHA. Thats for the pics, clears up a bunch of confusion I had before, now I am a little more confident I can pull it off.
 
Yep drill out the corners. Mine was pretty easy.... cleaned up with metal file before fitment since the air grinder is quite hard to get in that tight of a spot. Not really like you are doing surgery....... unless you know the tin man quite well .............LOL. But thats the great thing about metal, is that you cant really screw it up too much. Welds can be chizzled of with a cold chizzle and cleaned up with a blender to weld once again. And if ya cut something out and only measured once..... weld it back together and measure again. Obviously depends on skill level but its not like the end of the earth if you mess up. It really only comes down to this......... its just a bumper not a high tech peice of equipment. Good luck and post up your pics...........
 
If you have a welder, you don't need to drill out the corners. Just go ahead an cut over the lines, then fill any imperfections with some welding wire. After that, use a sanding blade to grind the excess weld.
 
IntrepidXJ said:
I either use a 3" air cutter for the smaller holes in the face of the bumper like this:

90114.gif


or my plasma cutter


here, i'll give you a short writeup how i did mine with the 3" cutter before i had a plasma. with pics :)

cutting for a receiver:

DSC07732.JPG


i drilled holes at all 4 corners all the way thru, so it would line up on both sides

DSC07748.JPG


then cut

DSC07756.JPG


DSC07773.JPG


done
DSC07789.JPG


same thing for my brackets, exscept i drilled smaller holes at each end of the angle I used for my rear bumper

DSC08578.JPG


HTH
Dang thats a lot of work. When i did mine, I just used a plasma. I know that isnt an option for most people, but it made life so much easier.
That and I hate grinders.
 
J-Roc said:
I was thinking about bolting my bumper to my frame mounts...
.
Heavy Duty bumper and D-ring shackle mount
.
Use this drawing to make your bumper mounting brackets. Extend the front end as far as needed for your design. Both sides are exactly the same. Some of the frame holes just need to be cleaned out a little bit.

Front crossmember reinforcement brackets like the factory system are a good idea too.
.
standard.jpg
.
 
I have a suggestion for your cad design. Install triangular gussets between the bolts that hold the d-rings. Two on each side. That will greatly improve lateral stability if you tug on the d-rings from the side of the vehicle and prevent the frame mounts from buckling sideways. Also, I think if you include an integral steering box brace, it will make it far more marketable. Nice design BTW.
 
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