Help me pick an axle...

[CameronB]

I need a rear axle that has 4.88 gears, good brakes, an affordable locker, and has (or can be modified to have) 5 on 4.5".
It won't see hard offroading, and will end up under a very light rig- an 86 xj, 2 door, 2.5 liter, with the back chopped off. It will be used for getting to trailheads and leaving for several days at a time.
The d30 front from my 95 xj will go up front, but the 8.25 can't be regeared to 4.88.

This is on a tight budget, and it's going on a cheap rig.

So far, a Toyota with the elocker is my best idea, if I can find one cheap enough, and if the bolt pattern can be changed (spacer/adapters or redrilled?). WMS width won't have to be perfect for this rig.

TIA

 

[Kejtar]

Dana 44

 

[Pete M]

8.8 from a 95+ Ford Explorer.
Jeep on!
--Pete

 

[Rawbrown]

Super 35 and a truss.

 

[xjj33p3r]

Super 35 and a truss.

Upgrade, not downgrade

 

[GirlScout1]

8.8 from a 95+ Ford Explorer.
Jeep on!
--Pete

+1

 

[johnsoninc86]

+1

+2

 

[Rawbrown]

And I quote...

(It won't see hard offroading, and will end up under a very light rig- an 86 xj, 2 door, 2.5 liter, with the back chopped off. It will be used for getting to trailheads and leaving for several days at a time.)

Yeah, I'm sure he needs to go out and dump a crapload of $$$ into POS jeep that could get stolen when he is out hiking. Yeah he really needs disc brakes and big diff with 31 spline axles for a 4 cyl that won't see hard offroading :dunno: Maybe some ARB's and an Atlas too? hell why not just build a Currie rockjock 60 or true hi9 instead?

 

[mack]

somehow, i don't see the power from an 85 2.5 breaking the d35, toss in some $125 yukon axles and be done.

 

[JnJ]

And I quote...

(It won't see hard offroading, and will end up under a very light rig- an 86 xj, 2 door, 2.5 liter, with the back chopped off. It will be used for getting to trailheads and leaving for several days at a time.)

Yeah, I'm sure he needs to go out and dump a crapload of $$$ into POS jeep that could get stolen when he is out hiking. Yeah he really needs disc brakes and big diff with 31 spline axles for a 4 cyl that won't see hard offroading :dunno: Maybe some ARB's and an Atlas too? hell why not just build a Currie rockjock 60 or true hi9 instead?

Ya, but to go from a 8.25 to a D35...............

 

[Wiley Coyote]

Dana 44 or Ford 8.8, which ever you can find cheaper (probably the 8.8). I wouldn’t put 4.88s in the Dana 30, but I guess you do what you have to. Any chance of snagging a cheap old Chevy truck with a 10 bolt/14 bolt combo (pretty common)? You can get just about any wheel adapter you want here: http://www.ezaccessory.com/.sc/ms/cat/1111448059662947/9/nc/Wheel Adapters

 

[xjgrn]

No such thing as a cheap axle!! The 8.8 would probably be the best way to go. 4.88? running 35+ sneakers? That would run more than the axle and gear changes. 4.10, and a 32 or 33 tire would be more than ample for for a four banger. Even if you cut the roof, I doubt that you would lose more than 200 lbs.

 

[Roostertail]

I say a cherokee dana 44 with a ford exploere disc brake conversion. This will be a bolt in axle, and it is not a c-clip. I know that for what he is using the rig for he won't break an 8.8 shaft, but why build a c-clip axle. If you are thinking of getting an axle that will require fab work, then go with a 9". Some of the Fords have sring perches that are within a 1/2" of a cherokee and will bolt up. As far as the bolt pattern, have a local machine shop redrill the flanges and drums, or use a spacer. Then you will be spending money on an axle that can always be improved. If you choose between a cherokee 44 or either ford axle, you won't need a new carrier to install 4.88's. There is no gear split in fords and a cherokee 44 would have 4.10's stock. You could easily add a lunchbox locker if desired for cheap.

 

[MudDawg]

Manual trans or auto trans? If it's an auto and if it's going to the trailhead only...i cant imagine the d-35 with a decent set of axles and a lockrite being too whimpy if driven conservatively. If it's a manual trans...different story...shock load breaks parts...if so the 8.8 is stronger and has the disc brakes.

I would never consider any gear under 4.88 for a 2.5...I wish I had 5.38s or lower.

 

[jpfreak]

an 85 with a 2.5 had an 8.25 already? Or are you swapping that in?

 

[Rawbrown]

Ya, but to go from a 8.25 to a D35...............

Think about that one for a second. 8.25's didn't appear till 91 when Chrysler got jeep because its the same axle in the Dakota's.

Yeah GM 10bolt 14bolt combo... Thats realistic for a 4 cylinder. sure he'll never break again because hell be to busy replacing clutches from buring them up trying to move the weight of those axles.
Whats the most in-expensive solution for the gutless 4banger. everyone recomends an 8.8 or a D44. Disc brakes bla bla bla... do the math.
you can get 1541h shafts for the m35 that are 20-25% stronger than OEM. with a 31" tire thats pretty stout. add an ezlocker for a couple bucks is a good option. truss it because the m35 can flex and kill any locker. sure its not the hundreds or even $1000 of dollars that everyone is suggesting. the problem with the 8.8 is that the diff is big and hangs down a bit. same goes for the 8.25 which is a rock snagger. the D44 is good but maybe a bit overkill. the 35 can be built reliably well for the owners intended use for not a buttload of coin.

 

[Wiley Coyote]

I was suggesting the GM 14/10 combo based on price, not strength. Its way over kill for a 4 banger, but they can be had cheap. Around here, complete, running, older Chevy/GM trucks can be had for around $600. Pull the axles; sell off the rest of the drive train/body and you end up with some pretty cheap axles. :laugh3: Grinding off the old spring perches and welding in new ones is not rocket science. The front control arm brackets might be a little more interesting; I don’t know I’ve never tried.

 

[Colorado_XJ]

Screw it, pick up a cheap M35 and stuff those 6.72 'Wells under there and be done. Hell, it'll look cool. And if you need a little more junk hanging under there, stuff that STaK monster in there, too. You'll need the 5:1 just to spin the axles.

-Rich

 

[CameronB]

More info:
It's '86, 5 speed
The 8.25 is out of my 95 xj
I will run 33 or 34x10.50 tires
Must have 4.88s (limited to d30- keeping it-plenty strong for my needs)
I guess a locker is not absolutely necessary, but sure would be nice; might need it if a FS road is in bad shape.
231 t-case
5" lift
Chopped- looks like a pickup with no tailgate = light weight.
It's been on 36 TSLs, and now has 9"/44 hybrids with 6.50:1 gears that will eventually go into my '95- the source of the d30 I'll be using.

Toyotas sound good because some came with elockers, some with 4.88 (don't think they came with both 4.88 & elocker...), big brakes, low weight, good ground clearance. So if I found one with an elocker, I'd have to regear (400+?), adapt the bolt pattern (100$ spacers), adapt brake lines, weld perches and shock mounts, and possible driveline attachment differences (flanged?)

8.8- maybe 250$, regear 4-500$, locker $?, weld mounts 60$...

XJ 44- maybe 300$+, regear 4-500$, 10" drums?- may work ok, locker $?...

Rodeo 44- maybe 200?, regear 4-500$, locker $?, weld mounts 60$, adapt brakes, adapt bolt pattern 100$

Honda Passport 44- I think they came with 44s; if so, cost would be similar to the Rodeo...

Maybe I could find a yota with 4.88, install it, then wait for a good deal on an elocker or another locker....

 

[jpfreak]

I have an 8.8 in mine, regeared and locked it cost a pretty penny (but i'm happy with it).

I might suggest that you look for a 44. In retrospect, it would probably have saved me some money. But a 35 with 4.10s and a LSD might work? I'm not sure, but that would be cheaper.

That's one hell of a ride to a trailhead. If I needed 35s and lockers...I don't know if i'd want to hike that :roflmao: